Building Materials and Construction Technology
a12345: [citat] Like this one, for example? https://www.bauhaus.se/putsbruk-c-20kg#go-to-description
Fjonken: [citat] You can absolutely screw it up, but it has hardly any load-bearing capacity; it is designed to be glued with mortar on the existing substrate, so I think you should skip the studs, an air gap is not needed. Why have an air gap when you're not using mechanical ventilation anyway; it's just unnecessary.
Du och 19till: Can you make it so there's a small air gap? If you can have a 5mm air gap so it can be ventilated from underneath, I don't think it should be any trouble.
neo11: I would guess that Rejäl has better knowledge about the wall behind the plaster. Reed mat is basically no longer used, and does not fit here. Plasterboard is used if you are going to insulate, but it seems like you insulated from the inside. And regardless, you cannot use lime mortar on plasterboard. Plaster with weber 142. Which type of stucco is intended? white or colored? And what mm on the
Petter Wikberg: Ah, that's how you're thinking! Thanks for the tip.
torparavgrund: What were you planning to build on top of? Just an idea: maybe you should consider instead building a row of lecablock around, then fill the gap between with concrete and cast a base over both walls around the whole structure. You could then connect them by strategically drilling and inserting rebar with a chemical anchor in the drilled hole. You can then bend the rebar so they lie in the groove
AXS: Plywood (plastic on the outside if exposed to rain) and any direct insulation is probably not needed this time of year?
MartinBranden: [citat] You have to lay ground fabric underneath.
Aallalou: [citat] Ok, the shelves are like Ikea Bestå or similar, where they are aligned under the TV. I don't think it's a lot of weight, but it will probably be about 2-3 meters with Bestå-like shelves under the TV. I'll check the screws, but they will probably have to be about 20+ cm long.
maah: I don't believe in fastening the posts from underneath in the decking. It won't be really stable. It's better to remove a few decking boards so you can place a beam where the posts will go and attach the posts to the beam. Then screw the decking back in place. Braces are absolutely needed to make it stable. Two angled 45x90 pieces about 500-600mm in each corner, for example.
jhall: Agree with the previous speaker, you should probably have bare walls there to let the moisture find its way out, but make a hole with a hole saw and take a look. Our basement had insulated walls with a substantial air gap behind and no moisture problems, but in a few places things had been placed directly against the wall and it was worse there.
maah: The rule should sit flush against the ceiling and follow the slope. Then you need to bevel cut the upright studs so that they fit the slope.
maah: I think 45x70 is sufficient, but it doesn't hurt with 45x90. I built a large (about 1500x2000) sheet metal-clad door a few years ago with 45x90 and it holds up well. Be precise with the fit and fastening when you screw the frame together and reinforce the corners with nail plates so it holds up well. The nicest look is then to place strap hinges behind the panel.
AXS: Drill with a hole saw! You can place a piece of lumber with a 22mm hole over where you want to drill to guide the hole saw, so you can avoid the pilot hole. If you want to drill with a regular drill bit, start with a smaller bit and skip the hammer action.
plan-g: [citat] Curious about how you did it as we are also doing an extension that we want to plaster with lime mortar.
MathiasS: Use standard plasterboard, such as 900mm sheets that you can manage to carry up the stairs. If you're worried about the weight, tear down the OSB and start over to build correctly - you can't have walls that risk collapsing under their own weight.
Martin29: Hello. An angle grinder with a diamond blade should do the job. The upper edge you can bevel/grind afterwards. It can also help to tape along the cut to reduce chipping. Edit: Alternatively, a plunge saw with a diamond blade. That might be even better.
z_bumbi: Doesn't a sacrificial board or rule work with a metal angle over it? Pressure-treated wood, tar, and/or paint to your own taste.
yuphin: Hello I am going to install roof panels at the country house and the recommendation is construction screw BFK 35 4.2 x35 mm. What does BFK stand for? I can't find "BFK35 4.2x35mm" when searching on hardware store websites, only different variants of 4.2x35mm...
joasag: Starting to come together now, can't decide if I should have 2x 45x145 all around or if just 1 45x145 is enough. Doubling up will surely make it stronger, but it also makes everything much heavier, which could make a big difference on the part with a lot of overhang without a pole: [bild]
fribygg: [citat] Are you suggesting that TS should have a 45*45 as an air gap or did you just miss that it says in post #1 that it should be a 28mm air gap?
Da9911: [citat] Something like that I was thinking too, big thanks for the reply! 🥰👍
simpa81: Hi, it's been a long time since I was in here reading. But it's working well! There is no insulation behind the drywall.
Kjell-Anders: [citat] Yes, the appearance is important enough that this solution is out of the question. I think (there should also be a small study in the room).
plan-g: Received notice from the tinsmith that fastening brackets are rarely used on houses. Weber's salesperson thought the chamfering of the bottom piece under the frame was overkill. The question remains whether one should really seal with Weber's sealing tape between the wind protection board and the frame? Normally, one would have a tight seal on the inside and one that can breathe on the outside?
Testarn: I would build a frame of studs that fills the width of the wall minus the board material, probably with a vertical stud in the middle of the hole. Screw it into the wall on both sides with appropriate plugs and screws in masonry or just screws in wood. Then add OSB+drywall, or just drywall before you plaster the joint between the wall and the patch. To prevent cracking, a strip of
klaskarlsson: [citat] It is extremely hard to believe that this wall would be load-bearing even if it is not a "simple" gable-roof house. Not least it is incredibly thin on the drawing, short and does not go in a direction that seems load-bearing even if you consider that the house seems to have been extended in stages. But with old houses, you never know: There might be a stove on the upper floor right above