Creates an ugly edge when attaching the baseboards. How would you make it look nicer? The frame is less deep than the baseboard.
 
  • Baseboard misaligned with door frame, creating an uneven edge; baseboard extends beyond the shallower frame depth against a wooden floor.
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Karrock
Skurkloss is a convenient solution. However, on the molding, it doesn't seem like it's the style of the house otherwise. You could also try cutting the front part of the trim at an angle (touch-up painting will be needed).

If I had been forced to mount a coarse allmoge list with thin smooth moldings, I would have tried mitering 22.5°x2 or 30°x2, gluing it in place, and making it look like the trim folds into the molding.
 
Karrock Karrock said:
Skurkloss is a convenient solution. But on the trim, it doesn't look like it's the style of the house otherwise. You can also try cutting the front part of the molding at an angle (which requires touch-up painting).

If I were forced to install a coarse allmogelist with thin flat trims, I would have tried miterring 22.5°x2 or 30°x2, glue, and make it seem like the molding folds into the trim.
Skurkloss won't be used. Then I would also have to remove a part of the frame.
 
Demmpa Demmpa said:
There are at least two options,
The door frame ends at the upper edge of the baseboard (the baseboard goes at least to and through the frame).
Floor block, where both the baseboard and the frame end.

Both options are shown in the following thread,
[link]
I didn't quite understand the first option...
 
M Förstagångsköparen said:
Skurkloss will not be used. Then I would have to remove a part of the frame as well.
What an unusual installation, why would you need to remove a part of the frame to set a skurkloss?
 
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Joak and 1 other
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X xLnT said:
What a strange assembly, why would you need to remove a piece of the frame to install a skurkloss?
You have to cut the frame so you can insert the kloss?
 
M Förstagångsköparen said:
You have to cut the frame so you can fit the block in?
No, you place the block on the outside of the frame, just like the trim.
The block is thicker than trim/list since both trim and list should go against the block.

Or do you not have any trim around the frame? I assumed there was trim over the frame in the picture and not just a solid frame.
 
It can, at least if it had been a smooth molding, turn out really well if you just chamfer the corner at 45 degrees with a belt sander and then paint. Don't know how it looks if you do it with an allmogelist though.
 
M Förstagångsköparen said:
Creates an ugly edge when placing the moldings. How would you make it look nicer? The frame is less deep than the molding.
Can't you just miter a small piece as if it were a 90-degree outward corner? Then cut the piece with a straight cut.
 
Cleaning block or change feed.
 
Sand down

A 3D model of molding pieces, featuring curved profiles and suggested for sanding in a renovation project.
 
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Simsu and 1 other
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I thought that many people did as I did over 20 years ago, but when a carpenter was at my home about a year ago, he was impressed and had never seen that solution before. So here is my contribution to a neat finish on baseboards.
 
  • Close-up of a uniquely mitered baseboard corner with floral wallpaper background and visible screw, showcasing a rare method for finishing floor trims.
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Wenyen and 2 others
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K
M Förstagångsköparen said:
There will be no skurkloss. Then I must also remove a part of the karmen.
That's not the karmen meeting the baseboard, it's the dörrfoder.
 
cutting the door trim and installing a plinth block is the easiest. But not aesthetically pleasing.

Personally, I would have replaced the baseboard. The old trim looks like a plain functional trim, so why mix in some modern "fake classic"? Even with a plinth block, it will look strange.

The baseboard doesn't appear to be cut at a right angle. It is a prerequisite for a good connection to the plinth block.
 
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Hannah Gunnarsson
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