Building Materials and Construction Technology
KimWilgot: Ran with a paint scraper for house siding. Plowed through 16 steps in 20 minutes!
JSE: It feels like a lot of hassle for very little saving. Both products are "rullade," which means it will be quite a challenge to install over distances longer than a few meters.
olofh: Sketching on a staircase project. I would need timber that is about 300 high, width does not matter as it will be built in. I see that Beijer has glulam in 66x315 in good length. Is it possible to build a stringer from glulam or will it warp?
justusandersson: You must have the entire geometry ready, meaning not just dimensions but also distance measurements and slopes. Normally, snow loads etc. mean more for the design than the difference between clay and concrete tiles. In a traditional truss, the collar tie and struts help to reduce the dimensions of the rafters. The roof pitch is important as it determines how much of the roof loads affect the
Grizzlybjörnen123: Hello Have you submitted a building permit for the staircase? If you have done so, I am wondering in which drawing you have included it in?
Magmatts: [citat] Good point. I will take that with me.
Vante: Mount Toggler on existing wall, attach with the stud, use threaded rod if you can't find a screw.
turbo100: Hello and thank you - the grooved side should be out! The boards have been in the space where they are to be nailed up for a while, so hopefully the moisture is stabilized!
Workingclasshero: If the timber is beautiful on the inside, I wouldn't cover it and would invest the money in regulating humidity and rapid heating.
Malov71: It is enough to skew-screw the studs together in the corner, assuming it is 45x45? At the ceiling, you screw in a stud as a "new" roof truss on your wall studs at the same level as the remaining roof trusses.
MathiasS: ...but whether you have studs or not doesn't matter if you have chipboard or råspont behind the hardboard. Of course, you use slightly longer screws in the studs if you have them, but otherwise, you just put a couple of screws between the studs as well, and the cabinets will sit there permanently.
Mazen: But the basement walls should still be cast/masoned vertically... Okay, say it takes 2-3 hours to measure and level the top and bottom rails, then it's just about stacking the studs and screwing...
Aramet: Hello forum We are renovating the kitchen. When we removed the drywall in the kitchen, we discovered that there was rat droppings between the plastic and the insulation, as well as other small insects. Upon closer inspection, we saw that it was not sealed down from the cold attic (see picture), the insulation ends in the cold attic without any protection or anything on top, so it's open for
Larsa: Regarding the reinforcement mesh, I would definitely have it, and a fairly thick layer of self-leveling compound. This is to prevent cracking. Regarding plastic, I would just have primed. Prevents the water from being drawn out of the mixture and improves adhesion.
Anderscurl: This was from Skånska Byggvaror. The same one we chose. I liked that it had screwed aluminum profiles.
Avemo: Plywood also straightens out. I mean you glue several thin pieces together into a thicker one and hold it in the desired shape while the glue dries.
0lle: I'm wondering the same thing, I have epoxy paint left over and a lacquered pine staircase to tackle.
MathiasS: https://www.finja.se/sortiment/betong-och-bruk/lagningsbruk
axelman: Someone might have tips on a PEEPHOLE with glass optics 14 mm (manual type) Preferably not too expensive. /a
Tommy_78: [citat] Aha, you mean the water pipes? Those will eventually be removed too
Stickan56: Suggestions for insulating the loft. Available in many variants and colors. :rofl: [bild] Stickan
dankar10: I bought those ceiling tiles from Parafon and then placed them behind paintings and such. It turned out quite well and not as expensive as sound absorbers can be if you order from certain websites...
Stefan1972: [citat] No, I think you should share your facts instead of sitting and claiming something that's not true. It's hardly the case that such timber starts a process that continues to mold inside. It dries out and dies, and even if there are super sensitive people who can react to anything, it's still at levels where the air concentrations are a thousand times higher elsewhere. So in the end, it's
Tompafix: More information is needed to calculate something like that. Measurements of the entire house, measurements for bearing supports, number of floors, snow load zone, etc. I would guess a steel beam if there should be an opening without a central pillar. Otherwise, it will be an insanely large glulam beam. Contacting a structural engineer is my advice.
Nygren86: It became an Elfahylla. And for it, there were special drywall plugs that fit different thicknesses in one and the same. Will of course try to put at least some screws in the stud too but :) Thanks for all the tips!
justusandersson: The wall is probably load-bearing. To calculate it, a section is needed. There are likely floor joists at c/c 600 mm. Why do you want to make the opening larger? You will get a worse living room with less furniture placement options.