Building Materials and Construction Technology
saiter: I wonder too. ICF form blocks in polystyrene seem to be a simple system, but they cost quite a lot? //AA
Rubbertooth: Hello! I am facing the same challenge. I have cast a countertop once before and used foam for the sink. It worked well, but as someone previously mentioned, it was difficult to fasten the sink with Ikea screws, so I had to supplement with silicone. It turned out fine, but maybe not optimal. This time, I'm considering if it would work to cast with the sink in the mold. Therefore, I'm wondering how
Stensson11: If the reglarna are screwed together, it's not needed.
henlin431: I use caulk/latex caulk in quite a few cases. But it's unclear how well it works to really paint over such a wide joint. You can always fill it in with putty as best as you can, then use tape and smooth it out again. But if you're going to extend the ceiling paint a bit onto the wall (assuming it's white), you might as well paint it the way you want it and fill in with caulk afterward. Provided
vincentt: So switched from EKK to RKK and got cable channels (Good cable channels from Schneider, otherwise they come loose after 1 day). Figured out how to reattach it and at night at 5 am, then fen. Removed the mounts from the panel and got u-profiles. Up with the stuff and then slide in the stuff. A bit tricky, but not as tricky as trying to mount the panel with 4 screws and getting muscle fatigue. I
torparavgrund: I join the group that says keep the spån. Possibly the spån has settled a bit over the years, creating an air gap between the floor and the insulation, so if you have the råspont ripped up anyway, it might be better to buy more kutterspån and fill it up. Otherwise, leave it as it is. @Daaaaaniel You have no idea. I tore out an entire trossbotten in a house from '29, about 70 sqm (due to
jahallåja: Hello I'm going to place a wooden box/cover over a cabinet on the house wall. Think of a larger birdhouse without a back and bottom. It should be easy to unhook. I'm trying to find a suitable fitting for this and was thinking of something similar to those that hook together the parts in a detachable corner sofa, but smaller and for outdoor use. See attached sketch. [bild] Intended dimensions,
PatrikJo: I don't really see the problem either. A regular dolly from Biltema can handle 250 kg according to the specifications. If it's wobbly, attach a board both to the bottom and back of the dolly so the door has something to rest on. Wrap a tension strap around the door. It's more difficult if the door is packaged, but you could almost lift 80 kg by hand. Make sure to prepare places to rest in
Jörgen Ö: I wouldn't use nail plugs to set up 6mm gypsum, instead, glue them up with tile adhesive. Remove the wallpaper first!
Tswl: (y) Great that it has gone well! Looks like it's going to be good, that one.
Rickard.: https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/limtrakonstruktioner/projektering-av-limtrakonstruktioner/fackverk/ Here you can read and learn the advantage of a truss rafter, then you will probably also understand your question, you don't need to delve super deep into the glulam parts but I can't be bothered to sift through it for you :) If you build only with studs, each stud must individually withstand
Sven-Erik Hällgren: Drain the basement before you make the extension, it's difficult to do afterwards.
Jonatan79: Isn't it possible to save and just change parts? Image ?
erik8308: Hello, just ripped up some flooring in the kitchen and discovered plastic mats with something black in/underneath. We didn't install the flooring and it's probably been there for quite a while. The previous kitchen was installed in the 80s, and then a floor was laid to cover this. I've attached pictures. It mostly looks like there is black in the actual mat, and then there's some
justusandersson: Now I see that the wall separates two rooms, each with a window in the same dormer. If you want to remove the diagonal beam (which is part of the truss's rafter), it must be replaced with a beam that spans between the surrounding trusses, a somewhat more extensive operation. And without removing the diagonal, there's hardly any point in removing the wall.
dennis_f: Isn't the entire wall framed with thin studs to get a smooth wall, a little extra insulation or something?
GoC: [citat] There are no higher strength requirements for such a concrete lump. So throw in some gravel and mix, it will definitely be strong enough.
lochlomond: Thanks for the response - appreciated. There will be no waterproofing there, just painted with wet room paint which is probably right in a basement, I believe - waterproofing only on the floor and in the shower. I talked to the company today and they say there's nothing wrong with the method, but they do apply waterproofing near the sink to ensure safety. I'm still not entirely satisfied because
Stefan N: You can just set up a construction heater and it won't be a problem, it's not cold enough to freeze.
Felix36: I live in the Gävle area, and near the coast, so it doesn't get so cold but it's humid in the air.. it still ends up costing quite a lot for almost 100 sqm concrete slab.. thanks for a good answer
Vermilion: Nice, thanks :) Have taped the bags as best as I can for now.
sallad: Hello to those who know and understand! I have a slightly crazy idea, so I want to build a fairly stable storage building (cheap of course) and happen to have access to material in the form of trailer boards of second quality with small defects. Almost cheaper than regular plywood but a bit overkill, one might think. :rolleyes: It will have a post foundation (cheap) with floor boards of 23 mm
useless: Yes, you insert the thread into a hole in the rod and twist with a suitable tool on the square part that is not visible on the back... Available in multi-packs here: https://www.lantkompaniet.se/tradspaennare-5-pack-100-mm-varmfoerzinkad-voss-farming.html
attefall: [citat] Sounds good. Can one assume that the cast slab above doesn't have any load-bearing function? Or does it usually distribute loads to the edges?
marka: I already had fairly strong wooden posts in the corners and simply drilled holes in both the wooden posts and the mast pipe, one hole towards the end of the mast pipe and one near the top of the post, there is about 150 cm between the holes. Through the holes are carriage bolts with the head on the post side, the upper fastening is loosened a bit, and the lower one is completely removed when the
Inka54: [citat] [citat] I have a cheap version of a stud finder that shows how the stud runs. Unfortunately, it doesn't show what kind of material the stud is made of. But angle iron could be a solution. I'll check if that would work. Thanks for the quick response! :-)