Building Materials and Construction Technology
Magnus E K: Also have plasterboard (in almost the entire basement, the rest just rough lumber) in the basement ceiling of the house from '63 that I actually bought and now live in. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about the price range or what made one choose one or the other. A disadvantage of the plasterboard is that the paper can mold. It also steals an extra half centimeter of ceiling height compared
Lutte: I laid a complicated surface with more cut pieces than whole ones. I set my centerline with the laser and placed all the whole tiles, then measured all the ones that needed cutting and placed them as a test so they would fit before the fix came out again. Otherwise, you just need to be quick or cover the space where you have the saw with plastic.
lnvinzible: [citat] 4 years later :) hope huggan is still active in the forum because you seemed to know your stuff. I remembered I was a member here and saw that I forgot to respond to this. It can be good for others to understand some construction theory and for me to breathe a sigh of relief :) I am attaching my floor structure. We have also added foam for underfloor heating and screeded the entire floor.
Knuten26: [citat] Gullfiber turns black when it has been exposed to water and dirty air. Stone wool, e.g., rockwool, is made with diabase as the base. And is gray-green in color.
Galten: My panel is 135 mm wide and unfortunately it doesn't seem to be a standard measurement today. At K-Rauta they only had 95 or 120 mm wide :confused:
Krokben: My electricity teacher in high school had to have a lung removed because he was exposed to asbestos. But he had been exposed to it for about 40 consecutive years and was a smoker. If that plate had contained asbestos, nothing would have happened, I dare say.
Interista88: Well haha. Unfortunately, no idea, I'm a painter but rarely do you know the price as an employee:rofl:
mojjen: [citat] The requirement is 1/3 into the wall, that's what I have. I have the same on the lower floor.
Weissach: [citat] Exactly. I have it in the house but not in the garage. Not sure how common it is in garages? The house is from 2020.
JanPh_89: [citat] Thanks again! In this case, we "only" need to widen by about 30-40 cm to make room for a double door. I'm waiting for the old neighbor's response, then I'll take everything to the association to see if it would be okay to start with a qualified firm.
Låset: It ended up being blocks of leftover floor molding to put between. [bild] [bild]
AniKri: Yes, you are right. The ideal is 45 mm. But according to the carpenter, it's possible to achieve a good floor down to 25 mm. However, the minimum thickness is therefore 25 mm.
C.Lundin: Start by uploading a picture and some sketches of how you envision it. I don't have a vivid imagination, but it probably wouldn't help much here anyway. I understand that everything sounds crystal clear when you describe it, but for someone who has no idea what either the terrace, stairs, or surroundings look like, it becomes incredibly difficult to create an accurate picture of the whole thing.
Dan_Johansson: [citat] Trying to use a bolt together with an anchor can easily become troublesome, indeed.
alm82: Is it a part of a support structure for suspended ceilings? https://www.bauhaus.se/tvarprofil-paroc-xl-vit-600x24x30mm
justusandersson: It's not always easy to assess this type of question offhand. There are too many parameters. I never dare to answer without first making an estimate. Then you can count on a high timber quality in a house from 1947.
Smackbonk: For your information, the Swedish name sargsprint is just as indicated above! I will try to loosen the things but otherwise, Biltema has similar ones that will work!
Röksvamp: No good stability was achieved after yesterday's attempt. Tearing down and testing with thin joint mortar instead.
Twinman: Hello! Working on setting up floor and ceiling moldings. Looking for tips on neat finishes where the molding ends without a new molding. Was thinking of placing a short piece at the white section, but then the edge would be visible from the dark section, which doesn't look nice. Hope you understand. See the picture.
Padda: [citat] Old response post, but really informative and good!!
Andreas_kalmar: Are there foam strips approximately 100mm wide to seal the floor/wall angle with?
falkn: You can cut the slices at an angle if you want. Otherwise, fill the space with plaster. Then glue a weighted paper strip in the corners and spread the putty. If you do it this way, you avoid cracks.
Luddis_1: Sanding and painting as you are considering is probably the solution. An alternative is to find new deep moldings that cover the gap, but they most likely need to be quite deep and might not fit the overall look.
Isakare: The simplest thing, first and foremost, is soft carpets. For a good sound environment, it's best to dampen an opposing side, carpets on the floor, so you don't need to dampen the ceiling, dampen a large wall, but not the opposite one.
Piddeask: [citat] Hi, Thanks for the question. Unfortunately, we didn't go with järnvitriol due to uncertainty about the final result. We looked at some houses that were nice but had variations in shades that wouldn't fit where our house is located. However, we have a nice extension with fantastic spaces that we are now decorating with, among other things, a Christmas tree. I'll post pictures but want to