Building Materials and Construction Technology
Nygren86: It became an Elfahylla. And for it, there were special drywall plugs that fit different thicknesses in one and the same. Will of course try to put at least some screws in the stud too but :) Thanks for all the tips!
justusandersson: The wall is probably load-bearing. To calculate it, a section is needed. There are likely floor joists at c/c 600 mm. Why do you want to make the opening larger? You will get a worse living room with less furniture placement options.
Biffen87: Recently did an extension of about 60 square meters in central Skåne, meeting energy requirements with 240mm mineral wool. 21 Panel-gles 28-exterior gypsum 10-195-plastic-45-OSB+gypsum 24, so about 320 mm thick walls. So if a building permit is required, keep in mind that you need to meet the energy requirements.
mattoys: [citat] Once the foundation is laid, it can "rest" without any danger. That is, it can be good to have some slack in the schedule after the foundation to accommodate any delays there, unless the schedule is tight. It is critical to get climate protection/weather proofing, i.e., the roof and outer walls. Once the outer shell is up, the weather no longer affects it. You need somewhere to store
Erik Waenerlund: Ended up using C material in the end. It turned out okay. Different colors though. The new one leans more towards beige-brown.
Sjöben: I have exactly the same scenario ahead of me. I'm probably going to use subfloor and steel studs with OSB and plasterboard. Has anyone done this and experienced sound problems? Otherwise, I'm mostly considering ventilation. I don't have any moisture, so it might not be necessary, but it would be extremely frustrating if it turns out to be needed later. I would prefer not to leave a gap at the
Erikkr: I have a newly built house with a basement and thus backfilled material within 1-1.5m closest to the house. I am now in the process of building a deck around the house and have heard different opinions about attaching the ledger board to the slab/vault/basement wall. Unfortunately, I don't have the option to lay paving stones/gravel/piers close to the house as I would need to dig about 3m down to
Mjolnir: [citat] Seems to be Hikoki's own screws: MFT - for everything to hang together. - Hikoki Power Tools Sweden AB (mynewsdesk.com)
Pettttter: [citat] haha yes, a washer on the living room floor would feel the safest! I have to say that I have zero understanding of the construction, how did they build a basement ceiling in 1947? Do they build a temporary wooden roof, put in rebar and pour in concrete, then remove the wood once it's hardened? Or in a completely different way?
Bonzo2000: How did it go with this? I have some loose plans to build in and insulate our porch, and I am interested in how to solve the insulation of the floor.
bearmaniac: +1 on the circular saw method (with lockable depth setting). I have only made notches in studs for cables this way, but it worked just fine.
masterjohn: Isn't there a modern, simple, cost-effective method to install underfloor heating on existing subfloors?? I have an old tongue and groove floor and I'm considering installing underfloor heating with spacers, but using spacers builds up a lot and I know many people tear out the subfloor and just use spacers. It feels a bit wasteful to throw away a good floor, but what alternatives are there??
ullberg: I have used both plaster and husfix – I think both work well since they do not shrink (or at least very little). Husfix is very hard which (I suppose?) is good – as long as you don't accidentally overfill, then it's really tough to sand down... plaster is easier to handle once cured, and personally, I don't think it matters much that it's softer (rarely do I try to put a screwdriver or knife
Fede85: [citat] No, each tile is 5cm X 5cm. Unfortunately, I don't know how large the mesh is.
Petter Forsen: Have used this page for Energy Calculation, U-calculation and UM calculation for the requested calculations for our atterfallshus (complementary residential house) Energy calculation and power calculation, heat pump, insulation, BBR, DVUT, U-value, EPBD 2010/31/EU, 2018/844 (energiberakning.se)
AskeHolst: Our turn-of-the-century house was remodeled in 1952, where walls were removed, beams were adjusted, and the upper floor was furnished. There have been small bathrooms and guest toilets, all with vinyl flooring, so cracking hasn't been a problem. Now we have ripped everything out and want to build new, this time fully tiled, so the requirements are higher. Two things come up: 1. The joist
jonaserik: [citat] When drilling, it should go as slowly as possible with no impact, leca tends to crumble and then the hole becomes larger.
En apelsin: Thanks for the response! The wall will be approximately 2.4 meters high and about 2 meters long. I will attach a staircase on one side of the wall. It's smart to turn the wall 90 degrees for stability. I'll draw and consider it. Is cc 60 enough for the studs, or will it be more stable with 45?
jonaserik: What can happen if you turn the thread upward is that it's a bit thin with the rule, so the bolt itself goes through the plasterboard, hence the shoe should be attached to the ceiling joist and the bolt goes down if there is a hole that fits or drill/file something that exists. Whatever way you proceed, don't forget a rubber piece between the frame and the floor.
OlssoniVallby: Depending on where you live, it might be worthwhile to consider pests like mice and rats. If there's a risk they could get in, they might attack the hoses. Perhaps unlikely, but a water leak from the heating system within the flooring during a cold winter isn't a risk I want to take. I myself have chosen to place the particle board at the bottom (standard 22 mm), with the battens on top. Then a
Ben D: [citat] Here you can read some theory about not using a vapor barrier http://www.woodisol.se/teknisk-lufttathet.php
Magnus E K: Don't forget to fix the missing joint between the VP pipe and the hose.
tlundberg: Could one equate the space with an uninsulated basement? In that case, Isover at least thinks it's fine to insulate with their wool and use steel studs. https://www.isover.se/isolera-kallarvagg-inifran
Pontus I: Planning to plaster cinder blocks on the side of a staircase where the treads are cast with fine concrete. Which plaster bonds best with fine concrete? Plaster and mortar c finja? Coarse or fine? Plaster B? Will start with bonding mortar A and then mesh.
GabriellaK: Hello! I will be assembling and painting an unprimed, three-part baseboard for about 20 square meters. What is a normal price/time for a carpenter to do this? I understand that it needs to be assembled, primed, painted, attached to the wall, and some wall filling so it sits evenly... Thank you! //G