Building Materials and Construction Technology
KVS630: Hello, I have the same question. I am going to build a garage against a mexitegel wall. However, it will probably be completely freestanding, but I plan to keep the mexitegel wall as part of it since otherwise it would be too much work to tear down the brick. But what should be considered and how do you handle ventilation and drainage in the wall when it becomes warm?
Snappahaneklanen: The expectations for the final result somewhat determine which method is best. I don't think it's such a good idea to buy a whole beam, both because it's more expensive than necessary and a beam is quite heavy, requiring either posts to be built to lay it on or something sturdy to screw it into. If you want it to be a smooth and nice box, I believe studs and gypsum are the way to go. It's also
wawerider: [citat] You can buy ready-made corners in 2.5-meter lengths that you can cut with scissors and then moisten with water so the glue on the back makes it stick until you plaster over the perforation or screw it in place, or similar. That's what I did, and it was easy as pie. I'm a newbie in construction, so maybe there are even simpler things to use. Regards
Nikorasu: [citat] No, I absolutely don't think so. Screw/nail with double screws/nails at 60cm intervals. It will hold for all types of paneling I know of.
Plutus: Pure guess, measure the weight of one, then place it in water for a day and measure the weight again when it is dry on the surface.
justusandersson: How does one convey over fifty years of accumulated knowledge and experience? Tips are welcome. The truth is that there are probably no absolute rules. On a reinforcement drawing, load-bearing walls should be depicted, but it is not always accurate. Half-brick walls are usually not load-bearing, but you can't rely on that. If a concrete slab is laid over several walls, there is always top
AskeHolst: [citat] There is a deflection, about 1.5 cm, but a bit hard to see precisely as the beam does not have exact measurements. Sure, it is possible to replace it, we installed a HE-B 160 in another room (which does not have a bathroom above), so I know how, but it's simpler and cheaper if it is not necessary. [bild]
OlssoniVallby: [citat] I don't think you need to worry about moisture. It depends a bit on the floor, of course. There shouldn't be any moisture coming from the toilet. In that case, it's the connection to the exterior wall, but if you have the drywall connect to the lightweight concrete, it's no problem. If you want to be sure and put a bit more energy into it, and save some thickness, you can set the steel
Magnus E K: Also have plasterboard (in almost the entire basement, the rest just rough lumber) in the basement ceiling of the house from '63 that I actually bought and now live in. Unfortunately, I don't know anything about the price range or what made one choose one or the other. A disadvantage of the plasterboard is that the paper can mold. It also steals an extra half centimeter of ceiling height compared
Lutte: I laid a complicated surface with more cut pieces than whole ones. I set my centerline with the laser and placed all the whole tiles, then measured all the ones that needed cutting and placed them as a test so they would fit before the fix came out again. Otherwise, you just need to be quick or cover the space where you have the saw with plastic.
lnvinzible: [citat] 4 years later :) hope huggan is still active in the forum because you seemed to know your stuff. I remembered I was a member here and saw that I forgot to respond to this. It can be good for others to understand some construction theory and for me to breathe a sigh of relief :) I am attaching my floor structure. We have also added foam for underfloor heating and screeded the entire floor.
Knuten26: [citat] Gullfiber turns black when it has been exposed to water and dirty air. Stone wool, e.g., rockwool, is made with diabase as the base. And is gray-green in color.
Galten: My panel is 135 mm wide and unfortunately it doesn't seem to be a standard measurement today. At K-Rauta they only had 95 or 120 mm wide :confused:
Krokben: My electricity teacher in high school had to have a lung removed because he was exposed to asbestos. But he had been exposed to it for about 40 consecutive years and was a smoker. If that plate had contained asbestos, nothing would have happened, I dare say.
Interista88: Well haha. Unfortunately, no idea, I'm a painter but rarely do you know the price as an employee:rofl:
mojjen: [citat] The requirement is 1/3 into the wall, that's what I have. I have the same on the lower floor.
Weissach: [citat] Exactly. I have it in the house but not in the garage. Not sure how common it is in garages? The house is from 2020.
JanPh_89: [citat] Thanks again! In this case, we "only" need to widen by about 30-40 cm to make room for a double door. I'm waiting for the old neighbor's response, then I'll take everything to the association to see if it would be okay to start with a qualified firm.
Låset: It ended up being blocks of leftover floor molding to put between. [bild] [bild]
AniKri: Yes, you are right. The ideal is 45 mm. But according to the carpenter, it's possible to achieve a good floor down to 25 mm. However, the minimum thickness is therefore 25 mm.
C.Lundin: Start by uploading a picture and some sketches of how you envision it. I don't have a vivid imagination, but it probably wouldn't help much here anyway. I understand that everything sounds crystal clear when you describe it, but for someone who has no idea what either the terrace, stairs, or surroundings look like, it becomes incredibly difficult to create an accurate picture of the whole thing.
Dan_Johansson: [citat] Trying to use a bolt together with an anchor can easily become troublesome, indeed.
alm82: Is it a part of a support structure for suspended ceilings? https://www.bauhaus.se/tvarprofil-paroc-xl-vit-600x24x30mm
justusandersson: It's not always easy to assess this type of question offhand. There are too many parameters. I never dare to answer without first making an estimate. Then you can count on a high timber quality in a house from 1947.
Smackbonk: For your information, the Swedish name sargsprint is just as indicated above! I will try to loosen the things but otherwise, Biltema has similar ones that will work!
Röksvamp: No good stability was achieved after yesterday's attempt. Tearing down and testing with thin joint mortar instead.