Building Materials and Construction Technology
Klodsmajor: [citat] I think I would let it stay! Partly because it insulates well, it is moisture-resistant, and also sound insulating.
Arbogast: Hello! I live in a house built in 1900 with a cold attic. We have an unfinished space that we want/are going to make into a children's room, and then need (I assume) to insulate against the outer roof and a small part of the frame. In the other rooms, there is treetex and plank wall before the "framework", but how should one think here when building walls and sloped ceilings? We currently don't
Vermilion: Wow, thanks for so many great answers! So I should see it as a matter of taste then :) I thought that OSB would be much weaker but I seem to be wrong about that, good thing I asked.
Derbyboy: Hello, I've installed new windows. I then removed part of the facade. I'm planning to replace the entire facade this summer. It's vertical boards on asfaboard without an air gap. I'm considering whether I should replace the facade first and then call the sheet metal worker for the window sills, or if it's more appropriate to install the window sills before I replace the facade.
tryggvas: [citat] Thanks for the suggestion, but that sheet, just like all corrugated roofing sheets I have found, has too large an amplitude. 76-18 means an amplitude of 18 mm, and mine must be at most 10 mm.
Bordsduk: Hello! I had been eyeing these hinges for a neat solution with hidden hinges for the door to my framed loft/attic. https://www.aljosmide.se/produkter/kallarlucksgangjarn/ [bild] Mounted upside down in relation to the image. Now this product is not available, so I became a bit desperate for alternatives since I would like to make progress with the renovation. I was drawn to this solution because
CheapTrick: Currently demolishing the kitchen, and when I stripped the existing drywall while removing tiles, I discovered this plastic behind the drywall. There are chipboard panels above and below. Presumably, previous tiles in the middle were removed, and new tiles were laid over them, probably done about 10-15 years ago by previous owners. But I don’t understand why there would be plastic in there.
Matti_75: Tell them to get new ones. You shouldn't let them build in moisture.
tergo: if there is an air gap under the råspont, regular works, but if it is to be placed there instead of råspont, it should be oil-hardened
Åsa Lund: I guess you want visible beams. Plaster will crack when the house moves during stormy days. Instead, put wooden strips against the ceiling and around beam ends.
Daggan Maggan: Hello all you skilled and helpful people! We are going to plaster a brick wall in the kitchen but don't know what type of mortar to use. It is an old house and we have knocked down the plaster to reveal the brick wall. We also want to install a wood stove. The front wall turned out well, but the side is really ugly, so we need to plaster it. But with what? The wall looks similar to the one in the
jonaserik: The wood has been rained on, causing it to absorb moisture and not dry out properly. It's probably not too much of a concern for holding up, just remove what is rotten, then put battens and wind barrier with new paneling on the outside. Possibly cut away the corners, leaving about 5 cm. It's important that the bottom ones are okay. You can do this yourself without paying anyone for it.
justusandersson: One needs to know a bit more about the house and its construction before one can give a good answer. Is it a townhouse? The construction year is also interesting. What is the intermediate floor made of? Is there a beam in the ceiling between the dining room and living room?
mathor: [citat] [citat] Ahh, sorry, it's in Västra Götaland. Oh, that was more than I knew... Perfect, then I will go and check with Beijer if they can help me with this. Thanks for the answer.
Rampamuffen: [citat] Do you have an example of such material? It is a timber frame that will get an installation layer and insulation on the inside (iCell 45mm)
felkho: Hi! I have quite recently moved into a new home built in 2003. The stairs here in the house creak a lot, which isn't a big deal, but it's mostly annoying. It becomes a bit bothersome when someone needs to get up early or something, as the creaking wakes the other person up. I've tried to investigate the stairs a bit and think I've found what's causing the creaking. The stairs have a "bend" in
hakanmansson: Hello, We are considering demolishing an interior wall in our 1.5-story house with a basement from 1968. See the yellow marking on the drawing? This wall isn't load-bearing, is it? Does it serve any other function since it is shown on the construction drawing? Several other room-dividing interior walls are built on the ground floor that are not shown on the construction drawing. Any constructor
sinuslinus: Maybe I'm misunderstanding, but you don't need a railing by the window, do you? Isn't the stairwell on the right in the corner?
MrPajjas: Additionally, there are still just over 5 meters to the boiler room, so I can still fit a standard car.
Lutte: The absolute best way is to rent a wet saw, then there will be no dust to clean up. Then you cut your channel and make crosscuts so you get suitable pieces to carry out. The pipes should be marked bd if they are to be cast in.
Lerstenstegel: If it's just a small repair, it's fine. My guess is that it dried faster against the old concrete since you probably didn't brush it with a concrete slurry on the contact surfaces before casting to maximize adhesion and even drying. The old concrete has absorbed moisture from the new one, causing it to dry unevenly, and the crack has formed exactly where the new concrete became hardest.
Svante Svenson: Having the box on the outside is cumbersome from several perspectives. However, it's convenient if maintenance on the fiber is required as you don't need to be present. The risk is that the fiber might "peek out" and escape alongside the cable protection... I would have tried to negotiate removing the box and taken off the panel so that the fiber can be placed behind it. Then, only cable
Claes Sörmland: I would buy three bricks or alternatively a small lecablock. Then you chip the brick or lecablock so that it fits with maybe a cm margin in the hole using a masonry hammer. Not difficult if it sounds like this, and not precision work. You will also need a bag of mortar. Wet the hole with a spray bottle. Smear mortar on the inside. Smear mortar on the stone. Press/knock it into the hole with the
justusandersson: Interesting discussion for all railway enthusiasts. What makes railway rails particularly unsuitable for construction purposes is the profile, which provides a low moment of inertia. With a narrower web and equally wide flanges on top as at the bottom, the same amount of steel could produce a significantly stiffer beam. A rail weight of 16 kg is not much. It seems to be Decauville rails. On which
justusandersson: A solution that provides a much better result is the following: Screw-glue a 45x145 timber horizontally on top of the existing beams. Then screw-glue two pieces of timber measuring 45x50 mm at the bottom on each side of the beams so that they look like H-beams. A bit of work but not very costly. An alternative is to insert glulam beams 165x180, in the middle between the existing ones. It's also
justusandersson: The dashed lines indicate the position of a rather sturdy concrete beam. Everything below this (except for the concrete pillar in the middle) can be taken down, as well as all other partition walls. Just for fun, where in Göteborg is the house located?
bldr: Is it possible to attach a post mount directly into a garden slab or concrete hollow block? How do you screw the post mount into the concrete? Pre-drill? Anchor? Type of screw? Need a post as support for a deck project where the roof extends over the deck.
Grillen: [citat] Thank you for the quick response, I'll be renting one next week then :D