Building Materials and Construction Technology
fredand44: Hi I'm working on a small chicken coop, where it's important that the hens are not exposed to drafts, as my partner has explained. Right now, the framework is done, and I'm installing OSB boards on the inside. How do professionals usually proceed when they install boards in a room? I guess in this order: 1. Boards on the ceiling, flush against the vertical studs in the wall. 2. Boards on the
Thomas_Blekinge: No, it is Weber who has expressed himself very strangely.
vardan1986: How do you get "irregularities" in the ceiling when plastering? It must be a completely different technique. If you plaster as usual, everything just becomes smooth. I'm asking because I need to plaster a spot where an old ceiling lamp was and want to get it in roughly the same style as the rest of the ceiling. Thanks!
Huddingebo: Clean the hole and seal it with C-bruk, plaster with C-bruk.
AhlRobert: [citat] Nice to hear an opinion from a professional! Thank you very much!
ktd: [citat] Thanks for the response. What's going to be attached to the concrete are two to three decking boards wide (about 300 mm). After that, there will be regular wooden joists and then I can use regular decking screws. The two to three wide boards that will be attached to the concrete will "hover" (on laid spacers) about 15-20 mm, and to get a good grip in the concrete, I thought of using
Huzzbutt: A Swedish wood Cheat Sheet is always good to have installed for calculating dimensions. Having the sleeping loft running lengthwise will steal a lot of light from the room. If instead, it is placed along the new wall, daylight can reach the entire room. A sleeping loft does not need to and should not be larger than the bed that will be placed there. Assuming a height of the sleeping loft at
KnockOnWood: Hi Micke, welcome to the Bygga Hus forum! A few concrete hollow blocks should suffice? [bild] How you then finish it is a matter of taste, plaster or anything else. As I understand it, this won't be a load-bearing structure, just a windbreak and for appearance.
Lechuza: [citat] Ardex F5 is approved, it withstands incoming moisture and is diffusion-open. But better to use plaster. Cheaper and Ardex F5 is really hard to sand.
neo11: I think some pictures would be needed to understand better. At ground level, you should use a mortar, but above, use c mortar as you have used.
pelle plåttak: Most work, however, it's important to check that it is UV protected.
trasan: Okay, I'll check with the manufacturer about what they recommend, otherwise, I'll probably go with double-sided splice tape, thanks for the answer.
Ironside: In this case, we had unpacked the frame set a couple of days before the job, which turned out to be a bad idea because the frames had warped. When mounted in place, the frames bowed inward in the middle, and to fix this, the frame sleeve needs to pull towards the wall, which of course puts high pressure on the screw. The screw itself has no problem handling this pressure in this case, but when
TheGame: [citat] I don't know, probably misread the 12cm thick wall.
Perka.77: Hello everyone. We have a summer cottage that needs a new floor. There is a concrete slab where a Platon membrane, Styrofoam, and about 6 mm laminate flooring have been laid. This doesn't work very well, so now I'm thinking of taking care of it. My idea is to remove the laminate flooring and lay 12 mm floor/wall chipboard that is grooved and glued together. This instead of 22 mm chipboard to save
Danielswe88: [citat] Hello and thank you for your reply :) But it's not nail plugs, they're wall plugs where I first insert a plug and then screw the screw into the plug so that the plug expands. I'll call the builder's merchant tomorrow and ask why they are electro-galvanized, I wasn't aware / didn't think about it. But they recommended these to me when I told them what I was going to do, and I even showed
neonskij: Ok. Thanks. Yes, it will be consistently silicate paint on all plaster with primer beforehand.
Ithurtswhenip: Hello, I am planning to install a garage door measuring 3000x2200mm in a load-bearing outer wall. A door was previously in the wall before the garage was converted into a living area... the previous door was 2500 mm wide, and now I want to install a wider one. The question is whether I need to increase the size of the current HE-B beam 120x120 or if it will suffice with a longer one? There are 3
justusandersson: One must be a little cautious when dealing with prefabricated houses. Without access to the original assembly drawings, it is difficult to understand how the house is constructed. I don't think the wall you want to tear down has a load-bearing function, but I can't say for certain.
rufsig: [citat] Thanks for the great tip. I'll give it a try.
Jonatan79: A tall tale! Tryckat is more moisture-resistant and intended primarily for structures near the ground. For a pergola, I use non-tryckat and paint.
putte22: Tape with yellow construction tape on the parquet, then on that construction tape attach the floor rule with double-sided tape. Easy to remove later...
Mazen: 1 cm is quite a lot to fill, if it needs to be filled try using a carpentry putty or 2-component. Alternatively, cut strips to size, glue them in, and then putty/caulk.
Johannes Persson: Planning to build a new deck and just wanted to see if I'm thinking correctly with the joists. I'm thinking of splitting the deck in the middle to avoid most joints. However, the fascia has to be jointed since it’s too long. I'm also considering using hidden screws. Some considerations: 1. How do you screw in the boards that are mitered in the lower left corner? 2. Should you place an extra
noone70: Thank you for your response. I have recalculated a bit and adjusted my Tetris build a bit, it takes too much time and energy to deal with millimeter construction. It won't be completely optimal utilization of space, but much more margin. :)
KJD: Would like to have a rule, untreated for indoors, that is 22x45 with rounded corners and planed like a regular 45x45. Will need larger volumes. What is the most convenient? Should one cut it themselves and if so, with what kind of saw? Can one order from a builders' merchant or what is the best choice?
Tomture61: [citat] Råspont is usually cheaper per m2 (y)
camelspin: I've been thinking... I don't know exactly what wet zone 1 means, but it's silly. Install the door frame however you want. I don't think you intended to spray it with water. Smart to position the frame so it can be opened with consideration to the outermost layer = tiles. The main thing is that the door can be opened. Whether that means 2.5-5 mm shimming with either method doesn't matter.
lllusion: Is there bamboo paneling for installation on interior walls? Pros and cons?