Building Materials and Construction Technology
Staffans2000: [citat] You have encountered the internet's curse! "Blåbetong" can, but does not need to emit Radongas. It does not matter if you wear respiratory protection when sawing in Ytongen, because it continuously (potentially) emits gas and as mentioned, this tiny amount is completely harmless. Just like with asbestos, it requires large, long-term doses/exposures for damage to potentially occur. In
plaggis: Planning to renovate a basement. Tiles will be laid on the floor, existing interior walls will be framed to install paneling, and the ceiling will be lowered to install spotlights and a false ceiling. But, in what order? Ceiling, wall, floor or maybe wall, ceiling, floor? Should one think that the wall connects to the finished ceiling or the ceiling to the finished wall?
huggan: It depends on how the house is supposed to look. Number of floors, what the eaves and attic look like. I assume you don't have construction drawings since you're asking?
Limesmak: Borrowing a bit. I started plastering my lecablocks for the greenhouse yesterday, at first just with Murningsbruk A (Finja). Can you go back and add a little more in places if you skimped somewhere?
Limesmak: Borrowing a bit. I started finishing my lecablock for the greenhouse yesterday, first just with Murningsbruk A (Finja). Can I add a little more afterwards if I've been stingy in some areas?
Robert-san01: [citat] Try to get a grip on the pin in the middle and pull it out. If that doesn't work, unfortunately, you have to cut off the head. If it's aluminum, you can knock it off with a knife and hammer.
Nove: [citat] did this turn into anything? I'm thinking the same, would be fun to see someone who has done it before.
Mortsken: Sounds good. Then it doesn't matter whether it's stenlim or not.
pjapen: Looks really good, and if it's good up close then you don't think about it otherwise
Fartland: You can buy a 10t jack at Biltema for 279:-, which should be able to handle pressing up and together that and a bit more. If I could suggest another solution, it would be a through bolt or threaded rod with a nut and washer on the top and bottom side. Press together, drill, mount, release pressure, keep your fingers crossed.
Chentin: [citat] I have long considered renovating or rebuilding mine, but it hasn't happened yet. In my case, I will build exactly the same ones and try to retain the current fittings. Otherwise, they can be purchased from various places. Jula, for example, but I believe they cost around 200:- each, which in my case would be 3,600:- in total... This is how mine look currently: [bild] [bild] These are
larsbj: [citat] The max, of course, depends on the wood dimension. With 45*220 about 1.8m With double 45*220 about 2.5m. But it depends on several factors so it can vary. But in your case, I would choose double 45*220 as the beam, and 45*220 as the joist. Then there will be 2 rows of posts with 4 posts in each. And of course, these need to be solid posts.
Husåhem: Then it was done. It turned out really nice with the huntonit panels and the ceiling moldings. Also replaced window casings, installed insulation and fixed a windowsill. The biggest find was the ceiling prop for the huntonit ceiling. It cost 199 SEK and was worth every penny.
Niburu: Drawn in almost the same way in SketchUp, then made markings on the board according to the measurements on the computer. Use a regular circular saw and a Festool hand router to craft everything, it went perfectly fine. though you need to be a slightly more advanced carpenter
huggan: Absolutely not foam. Then you can never adjust the doors. Some manufacturers don't allow you to use it if the warranty is to be valid.
bossespecial: In that case, you could skip the exterior plastering. The interior walls have an impact because they absorb some of the loads that affect the walls' plane, such as wind. Therefore, the load "on the exterior walls" becomes lower if there are interior walls that contribute.
Toppentuppen: [citat] Nope, apparently not. The application must include a certificate from an "Occupational therapist or expert." I didn't expect the specialist doctors to dig their heels in.
MathiasS: No plugs for the aerated concrete screw - it holds like hell anyway. There are many tools and gadgets from essve, but the only thing you need is a hex socket that fits inside the sleeve, for installation and adjustment.
David_Berglund: Hello @Hallonbåten and thank you for your reply. I completely understand the method and will apply it to certain additional point loads on my old concrete slab. In this new slab that the question pertains to, however, the most loaded point is equipped with an embedded steel plate in the concrete, which I intend to weld. But as you describe, it's still possible to raise it with a center screw and
samsamlogitech: Hello, We have a pine staircase that makes a lot of noise when you walk on it. Each step you take causes the boards to make a clunky sound. Is there anything that can be done about this? The staircase is about three years old and the steps are covered as we have storage underneath. At first, I thought a stair tread mat would help, but when I think about it more, the actual problem is the
Disneygrisen: [citat] Thanks for the smart tip!
Bybe: [citat] Thanks for the comprehensive answer! Everything will be painted opaque, so it doesn't matter to me. Feels a bit like it has to be sauna panel... and try to live with it. [citat] Great, thanks for the tips, will check these out. :D
BORNER: [citat] Should one treat the masonite in any way so that it releases when dismantling the form?
BORNER: [citat] Thanks, @slacker! I missed that one! It should turn out very round and nice if you also reinforce it with several layers of masonite as suggested in the thread.
slacker: [citat] Or the carpenter's classic based on the tape measure - 120 cm on one wall, 160 cm on the other - It should then be 200 cm between (the hypotenuse). It's also easy to halve the numbers if the area is smaller, e.g., 60 & 80 = 100 Or remember and easily use the "345" method, e.g., X - 3 x 20 cm = 60 Y - 4 x 20 cm = 80 Hypotenuse - 5 x 20 cm = 100 Any measure can be used, in my example 20cm.
KjellTimell: Ardex A+X, is it Kiilto A+X that is being referred to? Read a bit about built-in waterproofing from, for example, Icopal and Mataki, but they all seem to require full welding, and that doesn't sound like a job to do yourself. Also, those products aren't listed with building supplies at all, just regular roofing felt, etc. My balcony is a 2-layer where the balcony and the residence share the same
Anonymiserad 284245: If you don't have 400mm mineral wool on top, I don't think much will happen.
jonaserik: Mine are 30 mm and it's probably needed if you want to track the drip edge underneath. No clue what they cost, the receipt is buried far back in the binders.
Vross: I've just started building my deck, which will be about 75 square meters. Since my municipality requires it to be level with the floor inside the house and partially extend over a slope, there will be some height variations. I've already struggled with setting about ten prefabricated plinths in crushed stone and fill material for the first row supporting the main beam. The height between the
Sanaz: [citat] We decided to do that! Tear everything down and put in new ones. Realized it was the best and most practical thing to do. So typical that the previous owner had done it so poorly.