Building Materials and Construction Technology
MVJK: I am facing similar choices at home but wondering how to set up the wall if it is to be parallel but between two beams?
Bjelkan: Does anyone know if dust/sawdust from bangkirai flying around is harmful when inhaled? It's probably never good no matter the wood type, but is this something specific?
JONSTE: [citat] Thanks again. Yes, most things are probably forbidden to burn, best to take it to recycling.
patriksod: What you can't see in the picture is that it slopes steeply downwards so it lies below the highest point of the side rails.
Sven-Erik_R: Hello! I have now torn down the walls and ceiling in the living room. Behind the masonite boards that were on the walls, a wall is now exposed (see picture) that looks like a disaster. The walls are double-bricked with an air gap. The inner wall is plastered, patched, repaired. I have no information on the house's age other than that part stands on a granite foundation. The idea is to have
Skogsmusen: [citat] [citat] Have sent you a PM regarding a sawmill in Skåne.:D
ZDPSJB: Hello. Does anyone have a suggestion on how such a construction solution could look like? The left part of the gable roof will be a cathedral ceiling, and the main part of the roof will be scissors trusses. What does such a connection look like between the cathedral ceiling beam and the scissors trusses? Thanks
FredrikR: Here you can input values and get saw angles. https://jansson.us/jcompound.html
Bonnlurken: [citat] Very good! That's how it will be. Thank you :cool:
robbs: [citat] Good tip! It should work, I'll make sure to do it before we redo the roof so maybe the settlements and loads will be less.
Jonatan79: Add 70mm and staple, e.g., windstop/air brake that holds it in place,
lillErnst: How did it go Moreno77? Planning the same thing as you, would be fun to see some pictures of how you did it :)
scorp1on: IPE beams are more prone to buckling, but if there is sufficient bracing, it is not a problem.
Viktor.J: Revising myself Now considering cc300 on the floor joist and 45x220. The beams still screw-glued 2 or 3 45x220. According to the wood guide, I get about 15mm deflection with the floor joist construction. But it does not take into account if the beam also flexes.
nikasp: Damn, I hate it myself when there is no follow-up. I'll see if there's any picture later, looked this up to tip someone else. I've managed to move 4 times in these 13 years :D
heimlaga: I would weld on joint pieces and cast together. Just to be safe
Amrich: I will continue this thread with a couple of new questions that have come up. Question 1 is best answered by the person who sent the quote, but he has taken Easter leave. 1. I assumed that the trusses with cross beams in alt. 1 would result in cc60 since that was what I wanted. However, it just occurred to me that they have calculated with 13 trusses and 12 cross beams so it should be less
Minimalisten: [citat] I read on different sites that you should not drill deeper than 30 mm otherwise there's a risk of hitting pipes, etc. Red plugs seem to be longer. Does it work with 25 mm plugs and 30 mm screws?
BirgitS: There was previously a building constructor who answered many questions about, for example, load-bearing walls and the like, but he is no longer here.
Beccert: Hi! I am looking for "panel that sits on a roll," attaching a picture of exactly what I'm looking for. It's apparently called tambour wood in English. But does anyone know what it's called in Swedish? I'm going to give new life to a TV bench and thought it would save me a lot of time if I could find this material. Thankful for any help!
bighenk: I'm finishing up the drawing but have come across a design consideration. Does it look terrible if the carport's panel and roof are not in line with the garage? I think the roof will stick out too much towards the neighbor's lawn if I have them in line, and I also have to extend so far from the pillars if I want the panel in line. I'll upload a small video showing from the program I’m using for
Ludde85: [citat] Attached you have a rough sketch. I fully understand that this is completely the wrong way to use a beam, but I would like to avoid building something else. So it would be great if it sufficed to reinforce with a piece of flat bar. Edit: The load is clamped to the nearest "flange" on the beam (the flange on the left in the sketch). Building up the space and holding the load in the beam's
Nygge72: Hi, I would need to level a summer cottage that stands a bit off the ground on piers. I was thinking of using a beam that goes under the house from one edge to the other so you can lift the house directly, then cast piers. I came across fiberglass beams. Does anyone have experience with these and how strong they are, and if they could be used for this purpose? Distance from edge to edge is 5.5m.
Mikael_L: Nice thread lift, my post was from 2009 :D The backer rod clamps the plastic film against the stud, so the joint doesn’t really need to adhere to the plastic. It's still in the right place. This is what a backer rod looks like for those wondering; they come in different dimensions, and some brands have a hole in the middle (like macaroni). I bought mine from Biltema, which at least at that time
BirgitS: When it comes to the interior layout, it becomes much easier if the entrance, kitchen, laundry, a bedroom, and living room naturally exist on the same floor, as accessibility regulations require this. Also, consider that it should either be possible to drive a car to be level with the entrance, or it must be possible to have an accessibility-adapted ramp leading to the front door.
Mats-S: PL400 is completely harmless. In my previous life as a Carpenter, we used it almost daily ... so far (25 years ago) I have no damage from it ... as far as I know :) Use plastic gloves if you're worried, excellent for gluing a pine floor with.
haikopaiko: [citat] I've attached mine at chest height between two apple trees in the garden, works well. I've also anchored a sail shade to each of the trees and an old parasol base in the ground.