Building Materials and Construction Technology
människa: Thank you Tjrex We submitted a request for a quote to three different lumberyards. Derome, XL Bygg & Woody in the local area, and two of them specified 5x90 screws for the frame. We wrote 90mm screws for the frame in the request for a quote. So that's why I assumed that 5mm was okay, even though 6mm obviously holds more. Maybe one can use 3 screws instead of two in each :thinking:
Peppe123: Hello, I'm about to replace the roof on my house because the old asbestos tiles are no longer waterproof. My plan is to install a concrete tile roof, and now my question is whether my roof trusses will be able to handle this extra load? The roof is about 13m long, each side is 5m wide, and the slope is about 27 degrees. The trusses are made of 130x45 timber and there are a total of 15 trusses on
Kri113: I have plaster with spotlights in the ceiling at home where the plastering and painting are so-so from the previous owner. I would like to install panel tiles in the ceiling. I took down some spotlights, poked my phone up to film and check the joists above the plaster. My impression is that the distance between these joists is a bit too large and that panel tiles in the ceiling might be too
avendere: [citat] This was a while ago (wrote the post in 2018) so I can gladly report that after 4 years without a vapor barrier, the floor is still in pristine condition (minus the kids' "natural" patina). As I said, better to risk the surface layer than the beam layer. Best regards: Marcus
Agurg: Hello, Working on one of the rooms in our house. The chimney in the room has a glossy white paint on it that we would like to get rid of. Is it easiest to just paint over it with suitable heat-resistant paint, we're thinking black? Should we plaster first to make the paint adhere better? Another option is to remove the outer layer of paint and plaster so the brick is exposed. Does that work? Or
Stefan1972: It completely depends on how it's put together. If there are awfully many/big nails, then it becomes harder. If they're fastened with small tacks, it might be easy.
BSOD: [citat] Relevant question, I also prefer to cast on site.
Veronika Tynnerman: Did you find any solution? I have the same problem, by the way!
JSE: No, painting directly on it is not fun.. Put some canvas or renovation wallpaper first.
EddieHansson: Shouldn't you lay more than 45mm? Regardless, alternatives are better for the nails since they then go straight through the stud (45+28).
fribygg: TS seems in his other thread on the same topic hesitant about plastering in the cables, so I would recommend hiring a skilled electrician who can do a neat surface-mounted installation instead.
Mokhalad: [citat] Thanks! I think I've got all possible options to try now.
Oldboy: My view is that eaves ventilation should not be overdone, so I probably wouldn't have done anything there. Ventilation of cold spaces in general and garages/carports in particular is incredibly difficult to know what will work. They are simple buildings, so you can try different solutions. In this case, it also depends on how well-ventilated the carport itself is. They range from enclosed (like
ByggD: Hello! I have received documentation from my constructor that looks as follows. A new glulam post is to be erected in place before the old exterior wall with an embedded old post is demolished. Is it possible to erect the new post in reality since it will be too long before it is in place... Is it possible to knock it into place, or is there any trick? Can it be made slightly too short and then
z_bumbi: Isn't it easier to buy nails in the appropriate size? Assuming that the nails aren't already attached to the moldings, in which case it would be easier to use the existing ones.
mossanbo: Thank you for all the helpful tips. There are indeed good alternatives to expensive pre-made beams.
Demmpa: So it's the noise from your own apartment you want to eliminate from the bedroom? Open up walls/floors and add insulation. https://www.isover.se/isolera-mot-buller-och-storande-ljud https://www.hornbach.se/projekt/att-tanka-pa-ljudisolera-innervaggar/ https://villalivet.se/om-inredning/ljudisolera-vaggar-och-rum/ And/or sound-absorbing panels on walls/ceiling, for example,
Lbg83: Hello, I'm in the process of renovating a bathroom and as I plan to move the floor drain, I need to cast over the old floor drain hole. (Basement underneath) As I understand it, you should use low-alkaline mortar, etc., on light concrete but can you cast over a hole with mortar? Otherwise, I was thinking of using EPS concrete, but I find it difficult to determine if it is low-alkaline or not.
Pa & Sa: [citat] I have no plans to take down the OSB. And I don't think it will fall down either, but the main concern is whether there's a risk the board will sag. The ceiling will be illuminated, so if it does sag in a year or two, it will probably be very noticeable because of the lighting. I'm a bit inexperienced with OSB on ceilings, and if you try to search for it, you only find information on what
BirgitS: [citat] Unfortunately, there are some horror stories in a few threads where carpenters are the ones who have sized beams that do not handle the stresses at all. [citat] In any case, it's the opposite; if it is jointed above the wall, support for the joint must continue, or the floor structure must be redone.
Claes Sörmland: Husfix is probably plastic if I remember correctly so it doesn't fit in chimneys.
Joak: There should be gaps all around so that the board can move.
Dr Benz: [citat] Thank you. Good input. The sides are secured with eps-concrete and the insulation boards are staggered and held together, so it shouldn't be a problem. BUT very grateful for anything to consider before doing it. It becomes much harder to realize things afterward...
Dr Benz: [citat] Yep, but that's kind of how I had planned it in the living room where half is basement and framed, and the other half is earth floor that becomes a slab. The problem here is that it's not possible to make two loops without having the tubing go back and forth between the chipboard and the slab. This is because the seam to the basement goes diagonally through the room...
Fixaren06: We are going to change the facade and have a crawl space with fairly large entrances. The crawl space has a dehumidifier with negative pressure. Can we use pressure-treated wood for the hatches covering these entrances to the crawl space, or should we use regular wood to build the hatches? Currently, there are older hatches built from the panel we are now going to replace.
z_bumbi: It is possible if you knock/drill/chisel the grout. If you want to change the gate, etc., and completely hide the rod, you can easily cut the rod, sand it down, and then drill it out so you can cover it with some new mortar/whatever you have used. If it's not a requirement to hide it, just cut it and possibly sand it down. The smart thing if you want to hide it is to place the fittings for the
Sstridsberg: [citat] Do you have a better answer now after a few years? :) I am planning to do the same this spring (nail up a roof with Brad nails over a small patio)
BirgitS: You'll receive the same answer as last time. [citat] #4 In houses from 1927, there may also be walls that are necessary for stability. The foundation must be checked on-site to see if it can handle the increased pressure from the columns. Alterations to load-bearing structures require an approved building notification.