Building Materials and Construction Technology
karlmb: [citat] I'll look them up. This is how the molds looked anyway.
frma71: Old post, but I see you're still active :) How deep and large were the holes you drilled? How did you remove the material? [citat] [citat]
Trissa: Hello! I understand I expressed myself incorrectly: I want to build a completely new roof over everything, BUT in the same direction as the other one. The idea was a bit about what dimensions I would need to use? The tricky part is that the new garage to the house has a width of 5 meters, and that "section" will be self-supporting. However, on the "old" garage, you can essentially use the entire
b8q: [citat] Well, no qualification is required - it's not like a driver's license or electrical certification - you could probably learn an instrument entirely on your own if you just want to buy a used total station and play around with it. But if you want a JOB in the industry, the employer will certainly choose people with education first.
Rickard.: [citat] Yes, then it's really borderline to use metal even over a cold garage, but it should work with something like trp. Even 3° type felt is more serious, although I find it hard to recommend it over "real felt" ;)
Oaken: The material you are cutting is not lightweight concrete but burnt clay. The predecessor to leca. Unfortunately, no good tips for the assembly, but a small tip could be that if you use a plug, you can set the plug so it expands upwards and downwards instead of sideways. The plug usually expands in all directions but more in a certain direction.
Dilato: [citat] Depends on how skilled you are with the angle grinder, but why would you do that? Crack the board around the nail (hammer and chisel work) so you can remove it, then go at the nail with the angle grinder.
bighenk: [citat] Skilled and skilled. I don't dare to put my or the kids' lives on my welding skills but I'll look around for measured beams.
manner: I would dig down a pier with a post shoe in the lawn and then attach the pergola to it. Something like this https://www.byggmax.se/betongplint-p0352?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI39LWjob49gIVRPhRCh2XBg43EAQYASABEgLn5vD_BwE#1225=55340 The same thing in the stone slabs. Remove one or two slabs and dig down a pier. Or maybe a ground screw/ground anchor might work? It depends on the size of your pergola
matsro: [citat] Yes, I hope it is something like that. But I'm not sure.
Marcussjogren: Like this: https://www.byggmax.se/upphängningskrok-för-stege-2-p-skepphultstegen-p7021476?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsKqJvfX19gIVepBoCR2_mQF-EAQYBCABEgIUxPD_BwE#913=57283
JRX: Thank you for the good answer! It will be Ankarmassa and plugs. Now it's Easter and time to build.
MarieLouiseGbg: The neighbor also just added to the existing one because their neighbors didn't redo it either. Since our neighbors don't want to redo the fence, we have to let the old one remain. So you're thinking that we build a completely new one from scratch right next to it with posts etc? This might feel unnecessary and more expensive.
Dr Benz: [citat] Just as I thought. Awesome, thanks for the quick reply.
Tomture61: I will try to explain a bit more about my dreams, regarding the more perfect house. I live in a house built in 2008 with 1.5 floors. Everything that happens on the ground floor can be heard upstairs; if someone walks on the floor or talks, it can be heard on the floor above. The house is built on a 15 cm thick concrete slab, with a load-bearing wall in the middle of the ground floor directly on
gaspedal: I am going to pour a driveway of 90 sqm with a 2-4% slope. No clay or soggy ground today. I am thinking the slab will be 12 cm thick and reinforced. What fraction/fractions should I compact down before leveling? How much?
andreascarlsson: [citat] Absolutely. A circular saw will be added later this year. Unfortunately, there's no room for a saw table, the miter saw already takes up its share of space... :D
Malin Bard: [citat] OK! Thanks for the answer!
MrJay: [citat] You're welcome, but now it seems you've chosen the molly option :cool: [MEDIA=youtube]ECDysfNhx_E[/MEDIA]
TypRätt: All material based on stone emits a little, so the question is just how much. It doesn't have to be alum shale to emit, we have plenty of uranium in many rock types in Sweden.
Jocce81: [citat] Yes, shall take a better look next time we are up. Probably an insert sooner or later as well... The stove has been subjected to burning and probably people using the edge to brace themselves when putting on ski boots, etc... it's been there since 1970... :P /Jocce
Mats_Larson: Hello, I have a house from '69 with a brick façade on top of aerated concrete. In the later part of the 80s, the house was extended, including a patio with a carport underneath. This is constructed with 4 H-beams that act as girders under the framework that the decking and railing rest on. On one side, these beams rest firmly on pillars, and on the other side, they rest on 95 x 95 angle irons
BirgitS: If you (the municipality) do not have any construction drawings, you will probably need to bring in a structural engineer who can inspect how the house is built. It looks like it may have been remodeled (walls removed) as well, which complicates the situation.
OL77: Hello. I want to fix this stove we have (the picture). The surface was plastered with rough texture sometime during the happy 70s, but now it's probably time to fix it. What I'm thinking is to fill it smooth, but, yes, I need tips on what I should consider for a good result. Like, do I need to sand down the plaster or would it work to fill on the plaster etcetera etcetera... Thanks in advance.
useless: Ok. In that case, it's just a matter of filling in the holes. https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/wallfiller-casco-10kg/7612895470160
Stefan1972: Depends on the material? If it's like some fibermaterial then they probably absorb water and swell, making it difficult to backtrack. In that case, replacing the damaged sections is the only solution. Or wait and see if it returns somewhat to normal once dried, and then just paint.
Norrköping2009: Hello! I am going to install exterior siding (22x145) on a brick house (solid brick, thick walls). The plan is to attach 45-studs and then screw horizontal panels onto them. What do you recommend I use for fastening and how close together should these fastenings be on the studs? Are 45x45-studs sufficient? Regards, /Carl-Magnus