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L8.: [citat] Found a metalworker online where I live. Sent an email, so now I'm eagerly awaiting a response. Thanks for the help, since I'm alone and not near any craftsmen. I'm super grateful for this help.
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marp68: By the way, I've also seen a version where you only twist out the upper part. So, not like the allmoge tables where you pulled out a pin straight out.
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TheKangas
TheKangas: I have such Nadura tiles in my hallway that I laid myself. I really like it! I haven't found any store that had them in stock except where I bought the tiles, Returcompaniet in Höör in Skåne... Bjelin previously had the option to order samples, is that option no longer available? [bild] [bild]
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Snickarkirre: Now I don't know what kind of screw you were thinking of. But the length works well anyway, so just screw it on.
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useless
useless: Wood shrinks and cracks. If you don't like that, you have to build with other materials.
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MVJK
MVJK: Hello! I am going to replace the existing subfloor with slotted subfloor for underfloor heating and at the same time move a wall about 50cm. How should I set up the new wall? I have two solutions that I imagine: 1. New 45x170 stud on which I attach the sill on top, then I set a stud on each side that the subfloor can rest on (see suggestion below) 2. Shorter stud that is vertically attached, then
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MVJK
MVJK: Hi! I am going to move an interior wall while also replacing the existing floor chipboard with slotted chipboard for underfloor heating. The new wall will therefore not stand on the chipboard, and I'm wondering if I should place it directly over the existing floor joists, or place a new 45x170 beam on which to set the sill. See my attached illustration. What would you experienced builders do?
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Alko: Sigh, autocomplete changed "Slutstryka" to "Slitstyrka" in the headline..
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Himmelsfararen
Himmelsfararen: [citat] Well, not so bad, I'll check Bauhaus. Thanks!
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Jotre: Hello, I will need to replace parts of the facade and above the porch roof there's currently a drip edge that isn't installed correctly. (See image) I need some advice on how to install it according to standard in the easiest/most aesthetically pleasing way. Is it enough to saw a slit in the panel, tap in the drip edge, and then screw it? Or how would you solve this most simply? Thankful for your
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BirgitS
BirgitS: If it is true that they are trussed rafters and the attic has not started to be loaded in an unplanned way (storage), then no interior walls should be load-bearing. The thickness of the wall says very little.
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Anonymiserad 122206: Apologies, I read carelessly! However, I believe your concern is unfounded regarding the betongen.
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PeterO-: Yes, if I had a planer or a jointer, I would have done it. Thanks for the tip.
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supereldare: I did as someone suggested, poured in a bag of charcoal and lit it. It smoldered in the hole overnight and the next day I was able to dig down to a meter. About 60 cm down it was then free of frost that I was worried about.
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BäverBerra: Great, thanks for the response! I will check further on that material.
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Bobrek: Thank you for your post, good thought
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Feike
Feike: Hello! How do I repair the plaster in the best way? And which plaster mortar can I use? See attached image. Thanks!
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Bronken
Bronken: Yes, if you're going to have double 45s, then 90+ mm is easier. Otherwise, there is also a 45+ mm post shoe available.
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Lommond: Thank you all!
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Pittersenn: Planning to convert an existing carport into a sunroom and considering whether to plaster the interior walls instead of installing horizontal paneling. I've tried researching this but am not entirely clear on it. Currently, there is regular painted exterior paneling on two walls of the carport. I will be adding another wall to fully enclose it, along with glass doors. What do I need to do to the
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kallekarwe: [citat] Thanks! Sounds reasonable all around.
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claym: Then I would have, as I wrote, sanded it off and brushed on something like jape. Alternatively, ignored it completely. For mold to grow, it requires: moisture, the right temperature, and organic material. If you remove one of these, it won't grow (since you don't have an additional source of moisture, that factor is gone). I had an almost identical situation as you: water damage behind a panel I
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lillespillevinken: [citat] I understand and sympathize with you. We've just finished a complete renovation, but I'm still bothered by the faint smell, so I'm also keen on replacing in the future, at least in some rooms. It's sad to tear everything up again, but you need something to do next year anyway. :) It seems that replacing the sill from the inside is relatively simple. It doesn't seem very demanding, and it
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Byggvm2022: How did you do? I have the same project ahead of me.
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jbak: Hello I am going to build a canopy with a roof made of tongue and groove boards and roofing felt off an existing garage. The dimensioning program from byggbeskrivningar.se suggests using 90x90 glued laminated timber posts with about 20% load and a beam of 225x45 C30. I would rather build posts from 2 pieces of 120x45 and a beam, for example, of 2 pieces screwed-together 145-195x45. Now to my
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Derbyboy: I'm thinking of constructing a canopy/frame/box for my kitchen fan out of MDF after some consideration. The dimensions of the box will be the same as the fan, i.e. 1000x500x145mm (LxWxH). Is it possible, is it normal to biscuit joint 16mm MDF? The weight is important, so I prefer to use 16mm. How can I reinforce the corners so that the box holds together at the joints? I plan to have the box
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Robert-san01: I glued all the mirrors directly onto the tiles. Apply a bead around the entire edge, press and use some sturdy tape or something to keep it under pressure overnight. Used Soudal "high tack" adhesive.
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BirgitS
BirgitS: Floor gypsum sounds good. They are laid tightly against each other, so you don't need to use any leveling compound between them. P.S. Don't forget to consider that it adds a lot of height and can therefore affect thresholds and doors.
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Mortsken: [citat] I was considering that too. It's just a railing, so it shouldn't be exposed to large forces.
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Phiplex
Phiplex: Need to glue (+ seal) Ikea wooden deck tiles Utlängan to metal and concrete. The tiles are wood-plastic composite. Can Casco Superfix+ (black) mounting adhesive work? Or is there something better? It needs to be black or anthracite.
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