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Posetiv: I need a 40 square meter wall with Lecablock painted and want it as cheap as possible because I see the wall once every 10 years. Thought about painting directly on the wall but the blocks absorb paint so I need some plaster on it. Is it possible to mix up a thin slurry and brush it on and then paint, or do I need to plaster at a specific thickness? As I said, I see the wall once every 10 years
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nybyggarn3: I remember that the main character in the documentary series cowboykåken built a spiral staircase with an accompanying railing. The railing was made by bending and gluing timber in multiple layers around the staircase. Fun series available on SVT. The railing itself is built closer to the end.
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klub: Thank you!!!
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lindbloms_93: We are going to build a double garage measuring 9x8.5 m with a shed roof. The roof structure consists of a glulam center beam 115x630 and then 45x170/45x220 transverse roof rafters, and roofing felt. The walls are made of 250 mm Leca. The center beam will rest on the section of wall between the garage doors, and the question is whether the Leca wall itself can support the glulam beam or if we
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aanderrsson: [citat] No problem. This is just an area of about 1.6x1.6 meters in an open floor plan. The rest of the floor plan is open at about 40m² where there is underfloor heating.
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Benny Hertz
Benny Hertz: [citat] You can rest assured it is not asbestos.
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Christian Alkesjö: I'm a bit stuck in my current project where the kitchen's dining area will be relocated, which means a load-bearing wall is in the way and needs to be removed. I've tried to contact structural engineers in Stockholm, but those I've reached only work with companies and aren't interested in making an exception. I plan to do the work myself, but feel someone knowledgeable should calculate what kind
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Rony Karlsson: [citat] Hi! Thank you so much for your detailed feedback. No, I'm getting help from a craftsman to assist me with the installation.
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Andenzz: Hello! Today, I tore out a fireplace with an accompanying insert. I removed two tiles at each end of the floor that the fireplace was on with joint compound and sent them for analysis beforehand, since the house is from '65. The results were negative. It looked like they set the tiles in regular mortar, it didn't look like adhesive, but the joints could, of course, contain asbestos. When I had
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z_bumbi: A vibrating sander also works on the sides of the shape, run without paper.
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Jeson58: Hi! I have the same problem as you do, but without fiberglass fabric, picture. [bild] I was thinking of applying gypsum plaster and placing renovation gypsum in front to get a nice wall. I read another thread about someone who had to take down gypsum because it started to mold. In that case, it doesn't seem like a good idea. Does anyone know more about this? I assume that re-draining is the real
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joelfro: I am at the cottage and about to self-level over chipboard. Installed Raychem Quicknet. The problem is that the cables stick out in some places. I think I might be able to fix it with the adhesive. Is that okay? It says that the net can be laid directly in the adhesive. It is not a wet room. I can't get more leveling compound, and it would be great to finish.
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useless
useless: Since it's only a few boards, I wouldn't be particularly worried. If the conditions were bad, all the boards would show signs of growth. Brush off the worst and move on...
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JohanErik84: Hello, I have a floor that slopes quite a bit in certain areas. From the center of a room measuring 40 sqm towards both walls downward. The height difference is at most probably 50 mm from the highest point. I have lifted a layer of parquet, and now there is an old plank floor which is not in top condition. Under this floor, there is a sand/gravel mixture that the beams rest in. The beams have
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BirgitS
BirgitS: Others have written about there being a cardboard layer under linoleum flooring, so it might be the case for you too.
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MNilsson1: I'm also considering skipping the ledger and going with a couple more piers instead.
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tergo: [citat] probably
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hsd
hsd: I have used cement mixed with sand on a chimney and it is still fresh after 15 years later I used plaster, kc, on another chimney and it has adhered for about 12 years without peeling or cracks.
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Rickard.
Rickard.: [citat] No, you cannot compare these, even the thinnest fabrics have 6-7 times more mass and are made of a completely different material. Of course, I don't know that it will be a problem, but I have seen when condensation fabric is stretched under the sheet metal, and then during certain weather, there have been drops under all profile bottoms.
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myrstack: Does the manufacturer have any instructions for mounting in lightweight concrete? You have a safety aspect regarding glass railings that should obviously be considered, so first, I would try to follow the instructions. If these do not exist or if nothing else is recommended, I would otherwise primarily consider chemical anchors and threaded rods or very long plugs with a carefully chosen screw.
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Mawe85: [citat] I have glued the transition strip between the tiles and parquet. It's held for four years so far. But you might need to remove the entire strip for it to stick well.
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preben89: Ok, thanks for the response.
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Boan: [citat] Shouldn't be much but it would be fantastic. Any tips on someone around Gothenburg?
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Demmpa
Demmpa: I have cut several/many tiles with the angle grinder, there are special discs for tiles.
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David_Nyberg: One could say that FEM is a computerized strength assessment. It should become stiffer the coarser the wood you "strive" to use. I would think it becomes stiffest if you were to set double diagonals or crosses once per width. At 45 degrees. So a cross on every 1.2m. If you set a long >5.2m diagonal, it is, on the whole, straight, or nearly parallel with the other studs. So the optimal solution
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hydrolift: Have you tried using a pressure washer? I think it usually looks like newly made afterwards.
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Yoshimel: Okay, yes, because the Malmö municipality said that Malmö had very low levels compared to Svedala, Staffanstorp.
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