Building Materials and Construction Technology
Dr Benz: [bild] [bild] Will soon start framing for a small hallway and bathroom. The rest of the house is already framed, so the height in the house itself is already set. The question here is how do I best build up to the right height so that it matches the level of the other floors? In the rest of the house, slotted chipboard with underfloor heating is laid. But since there will be tiles, more is needed
KJD: Reviving this thread, as I haven't found much else here. You buy blocks, about 70x400x700mm for around 70 kr, cut them so the pieces fit, and use tile adhesive. If there are pipes etc. in the wall, you have to pour/fill around them - gypsum-based fillers for dry areas, lime/cement for wet areas. Lime/plaster/repair for layers < 20-30mm, and cement for thicker layers. (Note: it's important to
J Vos: [citat] If you only glue the miter, then there's no problem removing the casing.
Johannabjursas: We are going to renovate the bridge and get the plaster repaired while also redoing the decking. The plaster (lime) has cracked and come loose at the top where the decking almost touches. I'm wondering how we can prevent the same problem with the plaster from happening again. We probably need to put some form of insulating paper between the wood and concrete, and/or have a certain distance
Mikael_L: [citat] I can't do it better than what has already been done, so I refrain from even trying. You have to read the thread (and link) yourself.
marp68: Thank you for all the help. It ended up being flytspackel. Then underlagsfoam and laminate flooring. Turned out well.
Snickarkirre: [citat] No exactly, it's always nice! :) Okay, that's good then the concrete has time to cure properly. Thanks, same to you!
herge: There are quite a few threads on the topic but can't really find my answer. I'm standing here with my excavated basement and now need to rebuild it anew. I've never done such a project before and am pondering the following: A fairly square room to be cast totaling 27 sqm. Do I just lay out my EPS boards (20cm, 2x100mm) edge to edge with the existing basement wall and then stagger the joints
ÖronMüsli: [citat] Do you think you can use PEM pipes to make it completely round?
MathiasS: [citat] I had that throughout the house (the walls had kutterspån). I think it had zero moisture-blocking function given how it was installed, etc., but I have replaced it with age-resistant plastic in conjunction with additional insulation both inside and outside.
Jylais: Hello! I'm trying to redo my patio and expand the area a bit. The old patio has been there for over 20 years, so it was time to fix it. There will be joists against the facade on two sides of the house. (Previously, there were three sides on piers and a joist under the entrance door). On the longest wall side, I've cut the facade batten up to the level that will become the decking surface. As the
hackatall: [citat] The one they sell is too low for me, but I do have quite a bit of scrap and glued laminated timber lying around, so it won't be expensive to make. It will just take time.
moken: [citat] Yes indeed, if you think about it, it becomes quite obvious that the ridge beam takes much of the total load from the roof. Thanks for the answer :)
Lundin018: We have removed the old wooden roof on our root cellar. The structure of the roof consisted of 2 roundwood logs resting on foundation stones. The length of the root cellar is about 7.4 meters, and there are 2 cornerstones and one stone in the middle. So, 3.7 meters between the foundation stones. The idea is to reuse the stones and their placement, but I'm having trouble finding roundwood in those
Chippe: @Alfredo Haha, ok I thought it belonged to something still up. I've found info from carpenters who say it holds up just fine and the wood will not twist according to him.
BirgitS: In houses that are around 100 years old, it’s not just about the rafters but also about the beams in the ceiling structure that can run in different directions in different parts of the attic, and of course, you cannot remove a wall that is required for their support.
Lini: [citat] The challenge is that the area outside the yellow line should be 10-15cm lower than what you see in the picture, which makes the gravel solution tricky. Casting is a way to go but a bit more cumbersome as you point out.
BirgitS: It is probably teak. There are several threads in the forum with people who have renovated their teak doors by sanding and oiling them with very successful results.
Bennyro: Maybe a bit late, but others might find the formulas useful. https://www.zhitov.ru/sv/ I have personally built five staircases using calculations according to the formulas. Both angled and straight, the longest being 6300 mm and 1200 wide. Stringer made of laminated wood 52x240 mm floor height 3250 mm Gluing steps and risers is absolutely forbidden, if glued it is guaranteed to creak in the
Niklaspe: Planning to make a minor extension 2000x4000 with a 20-degree roof pitch. Considering if I can make a recessed joist frame according to the sketch and use pressure-treated 90x90 glulam columns as "stubs" on the footings to reduce the overall height of the foundation. Do you think it will work? Attaching picture
z_bumbi: Isn't it simpler and cheaper to cast footings directly? Then you can add some reinforcement in the upper part while you're at it. Otherwise, dig holes, lay macadam, a pile of coarse concrete, and press the footing upside down to the right height. Cut part of the fitting beforehand.
Åsa Lund: Caulk and seal from both sides before fitting the trim. Perhaps also a bead of sealant under the threshold to make it extra good.
Viktor.J: Ended up using 16mm holes for the 12mm reinforcement and anchoring compound. It will be a bit more expensive, I don't think 3 tubes will be enough, but it's smoother than having to mix a lot of concrete to hold it in place. Moreover, I would probably have had to increase the drilling size significantly to use expanders and 12mm rebar. The 16mm holes are quick to drill. That, combined with the
Dublin: Pushing for my own thread - anyone with some insight into construction techniques who knows or can provide input on the question above?
The Doc: Also available for two-story houses in the same location
Rickard.: [citat] I don't have a lot of experience, but I would say neither. It won't be completely without give, but if you have normal expectations and it's built a bit extra stable, it will be fine. I think your local tile store should be able to help you get a feel for what it's like to stand on tiles "in the air," even though it won't be exactly the same thing.
trannelg: Hello. I hope someone can provide concrete tips on how to get the following surfaces back in decent condition. Case 1, orange interior wall, with relatively "shallow" damage due to glued wall panels directly on a plaster wall that have been removed. Can some kind of plaster be applied in such thin (1-2 mm layers)? Case 2, green exterior wall, plaster loss all the way to the masonry wall, depth
zingo: Building a pizza oven. My local construction company recommended and delivered Weber's refractory mortar for this project. I have now started grouting the stones and realized after a few layers (and a failed arch) that the mortar both cures incredibly slowly and is hardly suitable for the purpose. Called Weber who confirmed this. Sure, it hardens and eventually becomes stiff, but it can't be