Building Materials and Construction Technology
AngelFB: For your information, it worked well with an angle grinder with a diamond blade ☺️ Thanks for all your answers!
Arne999: I did some calculations on a large "carport". I was thinking about approximately 12x4m with a post in the middle, creating two 6m gaps. I entered this on byggbeskrivningar.se and it couldn't be resolved with what was in their database at least... .. 115x630 laminated timber doesn't handle this? Seems really strange... but I could easily imagine adding nogs according to the image below to
Arne999: Well, but for aesthetic reasons, I don't want to have a green exterior gypsum board as a surface layer, but would rather paint or alternatively put up a board that is ready-made like a façade board.
henche: We had such a wall in the basement lounge, was paint with something mixed in. It was extremely tedious to get rid of... ended up scraping it down hoping to avoid replastering the wall. I skipped replastering but you can see scrape marks. Do you know what the wall is made of? Plasterboard? Besides renovation wallpaper, there is renovation plasterboard, perhaps that could suit this case.
doubleH: Raising an old question - the packaging says it does not withstand cold, but does this apply to the finished treated concrete or only to unapplied lasyr...? Johan - did you test or did you get an answer somewhere else?
mili1983: [citat] Thanks for the response! My builder usually keeps track of such things, but I thought I'd ask the question anyway.
ÉlPon: Okay thanks, but I'm not sure if I fully understand it. The one that fails exceeds the deflection L/300, but at the same time it only shows 88% utilization, not over 100%. Should one then interpret it as the percentage being the breaking limit instead? And even if the color is in the same box, it's more related to the deflection.
JanneJanne123: Text here: https://www.pritecmaskin.se/produkt/sten-pirra-psl/ Google stenpirra for more results.
Stenko: [QUOTE="z_bumbi, post: 4763417, member: 425619"]One question (
z_bumbi: 19 mm MDF results in quite heavy doors of that size. I would check the cost of custom-made doors to see if it's worth building them myself. At the same time, you can see how those doors are constructed.
nova383: Hello. I have a small puzzle in the bathroom window. I need to cover around the window with something. In the rest of the bathroom, there will be 15mm k-ply, - drywall - waterproofing - tiles. But in the niche around the window, all these layers become too thick. I found a board at Byggmax "trossbottenskiva" in fiber cement, can't one of these replace both k-ply and drywall just in the niche?
BirgitS: [citat] Yes, just like the current window is supported, the longer the distance, the stronger the beam (horizontal) and post (vertical rule) are needed. Intervention in a load-bearing structure usually requires that a building notification has been submitted to the municipality and approved before starting.
Kurtivan: [citat] I painted with Flygger's masonry and primer paint, it's still on the exterior walls 7 years later.
barfoo: Hello, and thank you! Well, I've learned something new today as well. I was really surprised when the plank wall came to light. I think it's quite nice, so maybe I'll expose it and paint/stain... Tension paper; it's great that I got the name for this. Now I can google further about how to possibly repair/treat tension paper, there was quite a bit to read.
SMBSMB: Followed another thread about treating a concrete countertop for an outdoor kitchen that was quite informative, but it's from 2009 and I think with all the DIYers, the tips and experiences of what works best for treating a concrete countertop for an outdoor kitchen have evolved :) So, what does the crew say? Is Waterglass still the best option? In the thread I read, some had used Osmo's hard wax
Hobbybyggare Anders: If I attempt a bit of interpretation, I find on träguiden.se a table for dimensions of an exterior wall and the maximum length of the house where the initial values provide for 145*45 timber in an exterior wall, which could possibly allow me to build a 9.8 m long house. (if I interpret the table correctly) https://www.traguiden.se/konstruktion/konstruktiv-utformning/stomme/vaggar/vaggreglar/
TH-huset: [citat] Yes, the initial thought was to skip the air gap, but the risk is that my gluing won't be 100% tight, meaning small air bubbles where condensation might form. But to answer the first question, I was thinking XPS between the studs, but I have quite a few studs, so it might be appropriate to fasten the plywood in XPS to avoid deflection.
Linkan90: Hi, I had to add a row of concrete blocks on the garage slab because the slope of the lot made the facade too close to ground level. What material should I use to attach the wooden sill to the concrete block? The original drawing was based on just a concrete slab and would use 8.0x90 expansion nails, what is recommended for use with concrete blocks and what dimension? Thanks in advance
Noramasen: [citat] A picture would be good to get an idea. But logs are a bit special anyway. Best regards, Masen
FalleFantom: [citat] If you know where the battens are located, I would install a new large drywall sheet to avoid filling so much and achieve a smooth ceiling; then it becomes double drywall and properly soundproofed.
Docno: Has anyone tried concrete fix 549 to repair joint cracks in a brick facade? How was the result? https://www.danalim.se/produktkatalog/bygg/fogmassor-proff/concrete-fix-549
Lilllen: One thing that probably everyone in the thread knows but I haven't seen anyone mention is that one reason you don't want it to get hot is that the iron then hardens and becomes much harder to drill through. So if you start with a dull 10mm drill at high speed and don't press hard, it's not so easy afterward even if you've bought the right drill.
Claes Sörmland: [citat] I believe in the first solution, about what I had in mind in my response.
nisseb123: [citat] Did it go well? I'm also considering lowering with battens but can't find many who have done it that way.
Düsseldorff: [citat] Ok, then I misunderstood. But it's really simple to solve. Screw the partition wall to the facade. But not with 23 screws. Three or four with sufficient size should be enough.
krvi: Thanks for the good advice! Got no more nails and will try it out. Sounds convenient to avoid the plug with lättbetongsskruv, will check it out next time.
Workingclasshero: That would be nice to run through the jointer and planer to see the condition :-)
Styrtekniker: Hello. I have a specially planed plank that has warped. I know that boat builders can shape wood. Hoping for good advice before I do something silly. I'm considering soaking the plank in water for a certain time and then screwing it in the right place. So then it can dry fixed in place. Do you think that would work?