Building Materials and Construction Technology
tergo: if you are worried that the screws won't hold, you can put a double molly in each corner + regular screw Köp Mollyskruv till dubbellgips | Verktygshandlarn.se
roli: I would not have used coarse concrete, choose fine concrete instead. It will be easier to adjust since fine concrete contains smaller stone sizes compared to coarse concrete. There is a risk that the stone size of coarse concrete will make it more difficult to adjust the height as easily as with concrete containing smaller stone sizes. You should also try to incorporate some type of reinforcement
boihus123: [citat] Hi, not exactly mine but they look similar, it might be that they were in the tree before it was cut down, but how do you know if it's active or inactive insects? Tried with a wire in the holes but can't get anything out anyway.
marp68: [citat] Yes, that's true I have regular 15×15
Grylf: [citat] :D We're moving the kitchen, and I want to take some of the old parts with me. But it looks bleak on that front.
Nymis: Hello, I have a question about building height and energy requirements for new constructions. Background: 1. A building permit application concerns a single-family house with a building height of 3.3 m. 2. The detailed plan allows for 3.0 m in building height. 3. The developer states as motivation for deviation from the detailed plan: a building height of 3.0 m makes it difficult to meet current
Et1975: [citat] Difficult to say anything in general just based on pictures. Outdoors and other exposed environments, shrinkage cracks can be directly devastating for durability because they lie right above the reinforcement and therefore lead moisture, oxygen, and possibly salt directly to the reinforcement, which can then quickly start to rust. Indoors in a protected environment, you don't have those
Davion: The doshål does not affect one iota. Everything else might be a bigger issue, however. If you're going to pull from the floor/ceiling and the doshål is very close to either the floor or ceiling, then forget about the neighbor. However, if there are several meters of tracking, you should reconsider.
Davion: I am of the opinion that a few holes in the posts are preferable, but it is my unfounded paranoia and faithful devotion to Murphy's Law that makes me say so. I will do the same thing this year on one of my patios and then do alternative 2 that you listed, type.
Marlen Eskilsson: I moved your question to Construction Technology because I suspect you have a better chance of getting an answer here.
Derbyboy: Thank you! I think it's stiffness I'm referring to. Between the roof joists, there's råspont. The råspont has been cut (230) mm and I want to apply something made of steel there so that the hole does not affect how much the råspont can support.
nybyggarn3: Then it was all done. Drilled a test hole under the upcoming kitchen and tried to insert a rebar. It turned out that the mass was quite loose in consistency, and it was no problem at all to push down the rebar. Before I fastened the post shoes, I masked the plate with some tape around the shoes. I pushed the mass into the hole, and when I tapped the post shoe in place, a bit of mass squeezed out
z_bumbi: Build frames for rock wool, cover with fabric, and you have cheap panels that dampen sound. Thicker = better. Don't place them flush against the ceiling; leave a gap. As long as the walls and floor are bare, it will likely continue to echo. The most important is to dampen corners, so if you have limited resources, place the boards in the corner between the ceiling and wall, for example at a
nybyggarn3: [citat] Sounds like PU-glue. The bottle says one day for full curing. Press time is 4-5 hours at 20 degrees. For me, the temperature will probably drop far below 10 degrees after maybe five hours. Yes, it's a hassle to work with. I have to glue my beams in place. The plan is to cut away the chamfer on the underside of the battens and sand away the excess after it has cured. The top side isn't
Toomz: I was wrong. I was absolutely sure that all types of water pipes in walls should be without joints. I would have avoided hidden joints until the very last anyway.
Schwen92: Hi, I'm helping a friend screw in a pool deck, he has built a 4x4 m deck with 45x95 joists and cc42 (that's how far the wood lasted since the ground was apparently more uneven than he thought) and it's about 30 cm above the ground. He installed 8 heavy ground screws from Jula around with 1 m spacing, then he braced the entire structure with stone slabs and 100x100 post blocks approximately 25-30
JontePe: Heey! I just finished the form and am in the stage of reinforcing. I saw on another forum that a person doing the same as me, casting against an existing floor, inserts reinforcement into the part that's already done and then has a 200mm extension. Is that necessary? Do I need anything else? Distances between each rod? I will have reinforcement mesh everywhere. Attaching some pictures, write if
preben89: Ok, thank you very much. Nordgips, so it's better, other well-known brands (I have no idea)?
chris_lom: Perfect, thank you very much! Trying Et1975's advice with reinforcement in existing iron..
DennisCA: I'm thinking about building a garbage roof. They are common here in Finland, like this one I thought of at first: [bild] But I started to wonder if one could be built from bricks instead of wood... It would be quite unique. At least the walls could be made of bricks. I have a slab that I poured several years ago where the garbage bins stand, the intention was to build a garbage roof but it just
nikasp: [citat] I think you misunderstand me. But I would personally choose (preferably) wood or concrete when building new. I have become more traditional and circular economy-minded after we bought a cottage in 2015. I want it to be possible to renovate and replace, preferably myself with normal tools if needed.
Awes78: Hello On one corner of the barn, the sill, including the vertical posts, has been damaged and is partially rotten. Can I replace them with laminated beams and splice the horizontal part?
gimmok: Thank you! It's not built yet, so planning is key right now. This is how I thought it would go into the storage. Then I think you attach the joists to the storage to the glulam beam with joist hangers since the joists are perpendicular to the glulam beam. It should work, I think. Planning to hire an engineer for sizing to be sure, but it's unnecessary money if those of you with more knowledge
Jonas Blom: [citat] thanks for the offer. I think I have a plan, so it's fine, but if I change my mind and need help, I'll reach out with a question. All the best
MVJK: [citat] Yes, they are load-bearing if the perforated edges are glued together. But that assumes I lay everything staggered, which I will do now after correcting the mistake :-) Big thanks! Slightly panicked when I thought I needed to tear everything out and start over, but if they are spliced on a joist, it should be "ok"
orjanovich: Hi, how did TS proceed then? I have the same problem. Tretex or similar fiberboard and directly behind it is a plastic barrier. The building permit plans state 9 mm board. Mockfjärds elementhus. My plan is to plaster directly on this or alternatively a thin installation wall... but both puncture the moisture barrier.