Building Materials and Construction Technology
it-snubben: Unfortunately, I can't find any pictures from the construction of it, it was so many years ago, so the only thing I can contribute with are pictures of how it looks today. But it's not a difficult construction, just a regular framework but only at half height. OSB board on both sides and gypsum on that. [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild]
JF.: [citat] gonna have parquet so maybe it doesn't matter that much then :)
Carl Johansson: Absolutely, it could be old lime mortar. I am about to regrout parts of the facade and will use hydraulic lime mortar, meaning it works the same way as cement-based mortar but is more flexible.
carlekvist: Dumb question perhaps, but are there any problems with resawing e.g. a 4” 4” post, I have a bunch left over and need 2” 2”. I have access to a band saw and thought I could get 4 pieces from each post….. Will they be as durable as regular ones or am I missing something here?
Düsseldorff: [citat] Absolutely, I know what a jig is and what it's used for. Now I was specifically thinking about TS's situation.
Kbygg: That's how it turned out. Maximum height difference in the entire room: 2mm (a bump we didn't bother to fix after some chipboards were already glued). But there was a lot of planing and laser measuring before installing each floor chipboard.
Düsseldorff: That doesn't look so bad. Sand, putty, paint. But do you really want a painted wall in the kitchen? It's completely useless.
Lukas Levin: Hello! Grateful for a response if anyone has the opportunity. I am renovating for a friend of mine. My friend wants to preserve as much as possible and have as small a renovation as possible. Currently, there are plasterboards in the walls and ceiling. They are estimated to be over 50 years old and there hasn't been any backup heating. It will become a kitchen and a small shower room. For the
Kalmarkille: [citat] - I roll out the roofing felt, align it straight and set a few nails at the top edge with maybe a meter in between. Then I pull/straighten it from one end and place a nail closest to the roof edge. Then do the same on the other side. Straight and simple to nail down the rest. I have actually never seen roofing felt laid vertically.
Rickard.: Hanging up underspikning between the roof truss and the fascia works fine with a piece of lumber like 45x70.
Herrman5: [citat] Apts on floors 1 and 2 are in the same design as mine on floor 3. So if I ask myself, I think they dimension for the loads for the apt at the bottom and then use the same dimensions all the way up for simplicity's sake. Instead of building with new dimensions and thus changing other measurements in the apt too, it seems unnecessarily complicated. But I could be wrong. This is something
Mr Phil: Yes, that's correct. Soundproofing was one of my hypotheses. It's completely silent between the floors. The reason I'm asking is that my water damage is also in the ceiling of the neighbor below. It's a water pipe with a hole, in the wall between my bedroom and my bathroom. The hole comes from a nail in a baseboard that has been there for 18 years and when I removed the baseboard a few weeks ago
Stabbsson: How did the work go, if I may ask?
Isakare: For the best fastening, pre-drill with a drill bit 0.5 mm smaller than the screw's core. When screwing directly into OSB, it tends to split on the backside, and the screw doesn't hold as well as it could.
Joak: The list that runs along the sloping roof must be sawed at the back regardless of whether you use a block or not, then you cut the list like a regular corner with a small intermediate piece. [bild]
Robert-san01: [citat] Make sure to get it in writing! Keep in mind that interior doors and frames must also meet the IE class.
Jonatan79: No, inspection is voluntary in your case. Your KA handles the paperwork, make him satisfied and the municipality will be satisfied at the final meeting.
Jonatan79: 3cm is very little. What is the thickness of the wall studs you have? I would remove the drywall and insulate with glass wool in the same thickness as the stud. Add plywood and drywall.
Ellinor Hellquist80: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/isolering-kamin.468468/
Ludvig1987: Hello. See pictures below. I have 2 different kinds of tretex boards on the wall with a molding as a separator. I'm considering putting a renovation plasterboard on the upper part and then regular plasterboard on the lower part to build out a little. Then I'll fill in the unevenness that occurs at the meeting point and smooth it out, or whatever you might call it. I will remove the molding. Is
LaT: Fiberglass insulation is crap & should be removed, it is hygroscopic, meaning it absorbs moisture and does not dry. There is a high risk of rot. You should not have a moisture barrier, it's not anywhere in the cottage otherwise and was not used in the past. You should be able to "demand" wooden flooring? Did the company that addressed the problem know nothing about old houses?
VillaWestern: Hi. I have purchased Cembrit's plinth boards, which are cement boards with small stones on them. As we are thoroughly reading the manual before installation, we note that there should be an 8mm gap between each board. In my opinion, that sounds like very large gaps. Is there anyone here on byggahus with experience in installing these boards, does it look strange with 8mm gaps? Has anyone
FrippeFlyer: Hello. I am wondering how to insulate against a crawl space. Now that I have torn out the old subfloor and insulation, there was only a thin paper against the crawl space area. From below: Battens with scattered tongue-and-groove boards, paper, insulation, tongue-and-groove floor. How should I proceed to make it good? Asphalt board on battens + insulation + floor chipboard? Or any other
Leif Malmborg: Finding little information about building an open fireplace with firebrick and fireproof mortar. Does anyone know?
bygges: My house has a gable that is about 4 meters wide x 2.5 meters high. We are replacing the siding and one option is to add insulation to this area as it lacks windows and is a gable, meaning relatively simple work but a bit of fiddling since the house currently lacks battens and an air gap. Another option is to build a cold storage about 1.5 m deep x 4 m wide x 2.5 m high outside the gable. My
-MH-: Yes, I think so too. But then I see that some sellers only have a 1.5m width, and I was wondering if there was a good reason for it? Maybe an Austrian standard?
-MH-: I have been toying with the idea of applying some strip on the joint between the terrace and the wall. But a metal sheet feels a bit more durable, if nothing else over the strip. The existing waterproofing currently continues under the sill, as it was in the construction I am now redoing. In a prosperous future, I am considering replacing the wooden deck with stone, and then you would have to
Korvmedbröd: Hello, I would like to freshen up my old wall by plastering it. What is the best way to do it to get a good result? Is it even durable?