Building Materials and Construction Technology
Singenjören89: Sketching tension rods for this to reduce the dimensions of the beams. Does anyone know where to buy them? Google is not my friend in this. The chain is for drainage instead of a downpipe from the underlying gutter. [bild]
Lengan: Forum, experts! We want to create two bedrooms in our current large one upstairs. The villa is built in '29 with a wooden facade. Option 1 is of course to apply for a building permit for two windows, which in itself takes an eternity in Stockholm city, and then work quite a lot on the facade and make openings for two new windows and close up the old one. Option 2, to save time and especially some
-MH-: This is an old thread, but I wanted to thank you for the tip on using a jigsaw! The board was purchased at Byggmax, I took a regular blade and sanded off almost all the teeth. The result was very good! The cut surface is what you see. I ran it without support behind. [bild]
Matti_75: Betsil doesn't do anything to the cracks. It's just a dust binder.
LarEri: [citat] Thanks for the input! Haha, yes technically correct. I copied the post to a more appropriate part of the forum.
raveper: Is it then an old outer wall that has become an inner wall? In that case, no vapor barrier is needed.
Höghus: I had filed down the head of a screw. Otherwise, concrete screw has a slightly smaller head. https://www.hornbach.se/shop/Betongskruv-GRABBER-vit-4-5x40mm-100-pack/10079731/artikel-detaljer.html /Höghus
henkeson: Sounds promising. Do you have any pictures of it? I am planning to build a laundry room in the basement, but I don't want it to have too much of an "industrial" feel.
petteressen: Hello! We have a newly built house that we are very pleased with, but after a few months, we've started noticing small issues here and there, some more serious than others. We have a classic 2-story house where we later asked them to cast an "entré" with a roof. Now that it has rained heavily and the wind has blown directly towards the house from the front, I've started to wonder what happens to
ottoangel: [citat] No, they are two different types of concave mouldings. A regular one and one adapted for sloped ceilings.
VetarN: I insulated and it works well, but one should remember that the doors are not insulated, so you shouldn't fool yourself into thinking it works exactly as intended anyway :)
BirgitS: The trusses of that type are supposed to be self-supporting, but this assumes, for example, that the attic isn't used as storage. At some point a few decades ago, the snow zones were changed after some roofs collapsed one winter with very heavy snow, which means some trusses are a bit too weak. If it's some kind of modular or prefab house, it could be different. Interior walls also have a
Albireo: How is expanderbruk used? There seems to be coarse or fine. The amount of water also seems critical... (Don't need many liters of concrete...)
fribygg: The houses that were built before the battery-powered screwdriver became common (perhaps - 95) usually have nailed trusses, rarely is more needed.
björnuf: Have timber prices gone down, looked at 22 g 145, plank 150-* to 200 for a plank, terribly high price, will it go down
Snickarkirre: Isn't it lightweight plaster? That is, plaster that weighs less. It is also green in color.
Elkillen90: No answers.. It became a block anyway. Looks pretty okay when everything is painted in.
nino: Unfortunately, it won't work; you need to add several cm for it to hold. Ardex A46 is made for outdoor use, and with 2 coatings, it is "waterproof." What that means, I can't answer, but that's what it says. If you need to fill up, for example, 10mm, check out Ardex K301, which is a self-leveling compound. There are, of course, equivalent products from other manufacturers, but you should use
Elias Nilsson: Hello, I was wondering if you know whether regular mortar B is suitable for enclosing an insert fireplace? Best regards, Elias
egge80: Truss roof trusses thus non-load-bearing walls, however stabilizing. Place a beam on the trusses to avoid any potential sagging! Note, these are my guesses, consult a structural engineer if you are going to carry it out.
richardtenggren: I ran over a betongexpander :)
bygges: [citat] Yes, exactly, it is against the frame, but outside there is no nailing batten, and the panel is directly against this wind barrier. Yes, it will be left as it is built.
Tjrex: If it has worked before, it will work now too. Let it be as it is.
chali405: Update: Hired a structural engineer and received the written statement. 1500kr. According to the engineer, a load-bearing concrete wall of such depth has no issues with cutting the reinforcement for a basic opening. Now the board will make a decision, which I have already received verbal approval for as long as I have the engineer's statement. Maybe I can start already this year.
rohah: Consideration of potential problems with increasing the weight on the floor. Apartment in a 1950s building. To improve sound insulation, we are laying 20mm Rockwool impact sound insulation boards with 2 layers of floor gypsum. On top of that, vinyl flooring. Concern about the increased weight. The largest room has a span of 430cm, 21sqm. Floor joists 70x215mm cc approx. 600. Suspended ceiling on
sixten88: [citat] Looks like the fiber cement board has cracked. I assume you have a foundation built externally with edge elements of cellular plastic and fiber cement. This type of edge element tends to crack if made on fresh cellular plastic. You can replace the board, but it's only aesthetic.
Herr Amadeus: [citat] I'm going with board + plasterboard all the way. I'm allergic to single plasterboard so it would just bother me in the future otherwise!
mojjen: Have taped the inside with foil tape, extending onto the frame. Some of it needs to be removed, which has caused me to realize just how brutally sticky the glue is. We rub and cut to get the tape off, albeit with blood, sweat, and tears. But the glue is brutal. I have 8 windows, 4 of which are quite large, so I’m starting to get tired. :sweat: Is there any product that can be used to dissolve
ToRy: I think that if you hire a carpenter to build a deck railing, you should be able to assume that they know a bit more than just how to cut and attach the parts. The carpenter should definitely be aware of the risks—and the measures to reduce the risks—of using untreated wood outdoors. The fact that the carpenter responds to the question with "there's no time" is, in my opinion, remarkable. An