Building Materials and Construction Technology
Screed: [citat] Yes, it's just one disc. Bauhaus suggested using 6x60 wood screws directly in.
s97danl: For shape stability, I wouldn't have chosen anything else. With polycarbonate sheets, there is a high risk of leakage if there are too large movements in the timber. Self-sawn timber is not included in the Swedish Wood's dimensioning table, so it's a bit difficult to compare. But 5m deep is quite a lot. I live in zone 1 myself and have 56x180 with 5m depth, and it is just on the borderline in the
Huddingebo: [citat] I chose it because 45 studs have significantly lower bending resistance compared to 70 studs. The bending resistance increases in square relation to the "depth" when you calculate the geometry. So cc30 is typically like that of 70 studs that are cc45. But with glued and screwed layers of sheets, it becomes very stiff anyway. Furthermore, 45 studs are very cheap, so you can use plenty of
Jonatan79: A Småland solution from the manufacturer. If you want, you can install corner moldings where it has cracked.
Ulf1: Thanks for the tips. I will drill larger holes and use chemical anchors. Next question: Do you know who sells brackets with good rust protection (we live on the west coast, 200m from the sea)? Which ones have the best hot-dip galvanizing among Bauhaus, Biltema, Hornbach, Biltema, or Byggmax? [bild]
ricebridge: Put up framing, add insulation, and install two layers of plasterboard with the layers staggered so that the outer layer covers the seams of the inner layer. Feel free to use steel studs.
TorpAnders: Timber house early 1800s. There is a desire to utilize a previously blocked door opening between the kitchen and the chamber for a pantry at the expense of some space in the chamber between the chimney and an inner wall. If the pantry is made rectangular, a small impractical and "ugly" niche is left between the chimney and the pantry. It would be better to eliminate the niche, but the question is
HasseArc7: Mm, have been thinking about that but was hoping there would be some standard fittings or "standard form" for fittings that one can ask the tinsmith to make that isn't too ugly?
Fredrik75Karlshamn: I will see tomorrow if it's possible to take a descriptive picture. As mentioned, it was summoned today.
mbrage: We are renovating our kitchen and will be taking down the upper cabinets on one wall. When we checked behind the current upper cabinets, we saw that the beadboard ceiling doesn't extend all the way to the wall; there's a gap of about 10-30 cm. How would you do it? We're considering extending it all the way to the wall and living with a straight seam along that wall. Another option is to cover it
Minnie Mesola: [citat] How did you manage to drill through the metal stud and the wall when the stud looks like a U? Minnie
tergo: [citat] when I worked, we were not allowed to use outdoor gypsum indoors, and the outdoor gypsum was normally 9 mm while the indoor gypsum was 13mm if I remember correctly, the outdoor gypsum came in the late 70s or early 80s
jockjämtens: Hi, does anyone know the tolerances for uneven / bulging internal walls? This is at a module joint, I think it looks terrible especially when the house is new
Luddis_1: Hello! Now I need a little help. I want to open up between the kitchen and dining area to a roughly 4.8m wide opening (yellow) or 4.2m (blue). What type of beam will be needed? My idea is to use a maximum HEA 160 due to ceiling height. To complicate things, it's the blue solution I would like to use. This means the beam won't be directly under the joints of the floor joists. My hope is to be able
-Doozer-: I'm testing by bumping the thread to get clarity on what "800mm" stands for in the example. Thanks in advance!
WallinN: As a wise man (and industry colleague) put it, it takes a lot of cable to build a good wireless network, and there is indeed a lot of truth to that... But to get the cable there without mishaps is mostly about deducing what might be there... Try using a stud finder and think a bit more about what might be there and how it might be laid out. Then you drill and keep your fingers crossed. It can
Kristeribagis: Thank you, that sounds good. Unfortunately, a lot of water flows in when it rains, but maybe I can stop it somehow. Shouldn't you stop the ground moisture with a platon sheet or something?
pacman42: I would also have chosen a gate for this problem if it should be easy to access. Otherwise, a removable liftable element in the railing is an alternative too, just secure it with a screw on each side.
Huddingebo: Even if it is not load-bearing, it is certainly stabilizing. It helps to withstand wind loads and makes all houses cope with wind loads better without creaking when it blows hard. I noticed it myself when I had to move a similar wall 60cm. When it was gone, you could clearly hear that the house moved more when it "stormed" outside. When it was erected again after a few months, it was as quiet as
Trafikverket1: I had used regular wood glue, esstack feels unnecessary, you don't need it to grab immediately.
Pilla58: [citat] No, there wasn't.
jamaica: Attaching an image from the carpenter's notes. The red-marked parts are updates. It's from the building permit. One side of the extension will have a façade section. I think it weighs just over 300kg if that matters. The extension is 15m2 with a metal roof. Nothing beyond that. I will cast with edge elements that are 400mm high. The width of the edge beam will be 300mm as I understand it. The
swe289: [citat] Hello! Yes, I'm aware that I will have difficulty meeting the building standard. The idea is that the family of four will be on the balcony a few times during the summer. I think that the snow load calculation offsets our family in the summer. Previously, there was a balcony that was used with the current inadequate roof joists. The idea is to find a solution that can work and is much
Leif i Skåne: Your carriage piece is bent, so the railing should also be bent with 90cm up to the railing from each step. When walking in a staircase, the hand on the railing should feel like it's at the same height regardless of which step you're standing on.
Leif i Skåne: [citat] Unfortunately, it does not dry out. In my house from the late 50s, an LB-hus built in 1960, these boards are covered with 11 mm eternit panels that have been painted many times with plastic paint, so the walls are airtight. In 2019, I had a small excavator to remove a stump by the wall, read in post #103 below to see what happened!
Tompafix: [citat] What might happen is that the roof will start to sag a bit more if you remove some of the walls that run perpendicular to the roof trusses. If you wanted to install glass sliding doors into the closet, you can put a vertical stud over the sliding doors just to be safe. It doesn't cost many kronor. Then you will also see how the wall is constructed when you remove the drywall.