Building Materials and Construction Technology
Skåning82: [citat] [citat] I agree. On Näset in gbg, there is a seemingly fully renovated townhouse available for 5.2. Built in '67, 123m2. I think it's difficult to make that full renovation pay off. If being close to the sea isn't the most important thing, there are quite a few nice places a bit inland, where you obviously get a lot more for your money. Being close to the sea is somewhat cheaper a bit
Matti_75: You can't do much from the inside. Just bite the bullet and dig out the outside.
Jono1977: [citat] what did you use then? I'm also going to drill into concrete/brick...
A.h.: Thank you for the answers, then it is not something urgent that needs to be addressed, in other words, only aesthetic.
Mörner: Update: The landlord responded that there shouldn't be anything in the wall, so I ended up drilling a hole in the metal sheet (feels like it was maybe 1-2mm) and attached the screw to it.
WarraWarra: Updating the thread with what I did in case someone else finds the thread in the future with the same problem. I built a floor joist of 95 x 45 beams. First, I screwed long beams along both sides of the stairs with robust assembly screws after pre-drilling in some places to ensure there was something to attach to. Then I secured cross beams with joist hangers at 600 mm centers. To be extra safe,
Hammarman: Can I have studs outside on an enclosed patio during the winter months and then bring them in and mount them cold, or do they need to be warmed up for a few days at indoor temperature first?
andhak2802: [citat] Should also add that the partition wall is the chimney wall and runs through the entire house more to the foundation where it is reinforced.
Anonymiserad 559485: I watched this video. [MEDIA=youtube]3K3YHYope9E[/MEDIA] I'm really wondering where to find those mounts that they screw into the tree? Is there anyone who knows a retailer in Sweden? Best regards!
sturnus: [bild] Som du kan se på bilden ovan är det en bärande vägg (balkar ansluter till den), så du kan inte ändra den utan en design och tillstånd
plåtrickard: As mentioned, pictures.. but in my (sheet metal worker) world, the problem is due to the hook being vertical, but the fascia board is angled against the roof slope? Then there will be a gap at the bottom between the hook and the fascia board. But the hook is against the last odor, so I don't understand how it could be moved in. It's possible that a different type of hook could solve the problem.
Solidwork: [citat] Thought about it initially, but the slab was bone dry. Only had a ventilated strip that was glued with hot glue (for easy removal).
LunneLunne123123: [citat] [citat] Thanks for the tip, I'll check it out!
Liljeros: I would still advocate building it in leca, building only 2 layers is a very suitable first project to a great extent. You will still splash water on the inside, and since it's a greenhouse, you won't have any roof overhang to protect the outside. It's not a good place for a framed wooden wall.
jawen: [citat] What did you plan to use it for? Your intended use is somewhat crucial for what kind of treatment you might need to do on the stone. You can buy the smallest can of Zar Ultra polyurethane varnish, available in all paint stores in glossy or matte. And brush it where you've cut the slab, so it doesn't absorb anything colored. The link below is to glossy. (mainly to show the can)
amoreex: [citat] nah maybe not. More stabilizing But hey, now it's sorted out anyway!
Hans G2: Of course, there are :) https://tinyurl.com/3ryj4h3u https://tinyurl.com/3x6afm6b
tergo: [citat] should work
Hamstraren: [citat] Or is it better like this? Must lower the CC distance from 1200 beams to 600 right? [bild]
klaskarlsson: [citat] Actually, you should only barrier between warm and cold, i.e., walls between warm-warm should not be barred, as it rather increases risks if for some reason you don't have it 100% tight and happen to get moisture there (as there are barriers on both sides) I would have used a vapor brake, which allows moisture to migrate out of the wall if it gets in, which is good if you, for example,
Mike_the_pip3: [citat] I’ve realized that a suitable placement for the loft is probably over the doors, easier to mount them in a flat framework. And if I want a lift at the back, that option remains. So now I'm considering whether to mix 2 different trusses. Like below. Frame construction for the first 5m at the doors, then scissor trusses for the rest for ceiling height. Alternatively, continue the idea
Tompafix: [citat] But glue it there so you avoid all the work of sanding and filling. There are pre-painted moldings and arch boards available.
Gorra_g: Many thanks for the quick responses from both of you :-) It remains to find out if the metal strip against the floor/wall is standard during installation, as it is not possible to see anything other than grout. But it sounds promising.
FMagnus: [citat] This is how it looks now, we will eventually change the floor plan on the second floor.
Einar.H: [citat] maybe a little late, but the only thing I can find is Titebond ultimate III, which is FDA approved for indirect contact with food and is, for example, used in cutting boards.
Karrock: 190 mm leca insulates about the same as 45 mm mineral wool or polystyrene. This is roughly equivalent to a modern window (around 1 in U-value). For residential walls, the goal is usually to reduce the U-value to somewhere between 0.1-0.2. Adding approximately 100mm of insulation could be appropriate. If you have access to insulate from the outside, it's beneficial. Interior insulation in masonry
FredrikR: Fibre cement board perhaps? 8mm, screwed and glued on top of the underfloor heating in my case, according to LK's (underfloor heating) installation instructions. Have laid it in the above manner in a smaller hallway and toilet.
El-Löken66: This was incredibly boring and shocking to do, yes, leaning towards depressing. Justus has written fantastic posts, beyond that I don't know much more. Age and so on. Very sad, thank you for sharing and highlighting this.