Building Materials and Construction Technology
HogeN: [citat] it could have been. I have Haltex on the walls myself.. applied a thin layer of wallpaper glue and let it dry before putting up the wallpaper.. looks normal but if something falls against the wall, it leaves marks.
bradgard: Noticed quickly when I was about to drive out the car that a large piece of concrete had broken off the curb up to the garage floor. Probably not something that can be screwed back. Should one let it be and wait until the rest comes off or cast a new curb in place?
byggarn_op: Hello! I understand that it's extremely difficult without a drawing. Therefore, I am attaching a small excerpt. The beam is approximately 8m long in total. Thus, about 1140mm between rafters. Roof pitch at a low 14%. Virtually no eaves. The tricky part is that it varies in width so that where it is narrower between the walls (about 4500mm), the beam gets more support while it has to support more
z_bumbi: [citat] For home use, I would probably attach a nailing plate or equivalent on each side of a beam, with the plate extending quite a bit. Then drill holes for pins in the nailing plates and the posts, meaning the adjustment is done from the side. The purpose is to protect if something happens, and it is extremely rare for anyone to need to dump a bar, and when it happens, you can check the stays
Thomas_Blekinge: It's not that the electrician sees it as a great opportunity to push you to replace the central with a new plastic central? Some electricians convince unaware customers that fuse box centrals are outdated and need to be replaced. But sure, some electricians need drink support due to increased prices in Thailand.
oddan: I did something similar a couple of years ago. Mounted 40x40 aluminum profiles on the walls and then had an oak-veneered 44 mm MDF board as a desk. Turned out very well! [bild]
Fideliox: It was a close call. I think the measurements were poorly communicated. I asked and received confirmation of the measurements, but the stand is larger. And additionally, space was needed for the connections. Had I known, I would have made it larger. [bild]
qvirre: You can check with the manufacturer of the sheet metal, but it usually requires 14 degrees (1:4), and if you account for 2000 mm of roof plus 500 mm of roof overhang, you're already on the right track. 2500/4=625 mm.
jawen: [citat] I absolutely think it does, the point of mounting them horizontally is that the tongue and groove then make the wall "stronger" overall. (hence a recommendation in the installation instructions) Vertical boards and joints get "less support" vertically if there isn't a stud exactly where the joint ends up. So go ahead (y)
Roman86: [citat] Thanks, I'll email and see, I live in Göteborg so it's not that easy but I'll at least inquire.
jawen: [citat] I would NEVER choose to build underground with an ISO-block, IF the wall has a lot of earth pressure against it. Better then to build with solid Leca blocks with every other layer double rebar 8 mm & have plenty of isodrän-insulation & fabric outside the Leca. And it doesn't have to cost hundreds of thousands to fix the surface so it becomes pore-free/sealed, you can mix regular mortar
klaskarlsson: [citat] Well, the wall is probably not needed for the walkway; it doesn't seem likely. I have had walkways in attics without walls underneath; the rafter arm usually handles it without any problem. And the rafters should handle significantly larger loads than that and usually run from outer wall to outer wall. If they were made with a central wall, it should go through the entire house... that's
InsidersUnited: That will be resolved once you stop "working" from home (y)
Per i Hamrånge: [citat] Then plaster or house fix will be the easiest and least messy. Try it, you can't go wrong. Also, quite fun.
Anne G: What can be used to fill all the air holes in the concrete blocks, planning to paint the ceiling, which filler is suitable? I don't want to end up sanding endlessly, tried fine filler but it can hardly be sanded off.
hc77: Thank you for the response, then we'll skip that. It's also possible to adjust so that I can cut off the long sides on both sides. Thanks for the help.
Installation: [citat] 4000 is money, of course. It's not much in a room of 96 square meters or then 60 cubic meters of wall surface with an additional cost of 70 per square meter. But that's how I think. I actually checked out the glues and today OSB is significantly better than it used to be. That's good. Then OSB has the plus side of using residual material, which is good. It takes more energy to produce it
Smackbonk: I have raised the beam structure in the stable and cut down the old one. It resulted in a huge amount of timber. Just a few centimeters in, the wood is still nice, and it feels wasteful to just throw it away or burn it. However, there are significant amounts of nails in it that can't be pulled out, they're rusty and break when you try. Any tips on tools I could use to prepare them myself? Are
BirgitS: And furthermore, it is good to read the industry regulations from BKR (tiles, ceramics) and Säker Vatten. There you can find, for example, rules about waterproofing, prohibition of pipes coming up through the floor unless it's drainage, prohibition of hidden water connections.
BirgitS: [citat] Why can't you share the information with everyone in the forum?
bossespecial: Based on the reinforcement drawing, it is not load-bearing (y)
MathiasS: It is for precisely this reason that I cut EVERYTHING when I lay tiles. That way, the cut is always exactly where I want it.
erik8308: [citat] interesting, I will try it. It sounds like a much better solution...
Jebus: I have had a bad experience with attaching mirror glass with regular silicone. Just as mentioned above, it corroded through (this was a side mirror on a car). Next time I will use a product that is specifically intended for this purpose.
Joakim Lajtai: Yes, I know that, but the gray board IF it contains asbestos has "weathered" or something, otherwise it would have been a whole board. But I still don't want any holes like gypsum plaster for indoor use.
Installation: [citat] if you don't screw the frame into the parquet, you can keep it. You can cut the parquet under the wall if you want. choose what you want as the price differs. Plywood is higher quality. sound insulation is based on three things. 1) weight of the surface layer. (Gypsum is good in relation to price) 2) the distance between, i.e., the thickness of the studs determines the wall's own