Building Materials and Construction Technology
Claes Sörmland: Of course, you can apply putty on the kalkputsen. The paint doesn't have to be breathable, on the contrary, it is actually an advantage to use a dense wall paint of the acrylic type. This reduces moisture migration into the wall from the dwelling if it's an exterior wall. If it's an interior wall, it doesn't matter at all.
Matti_75: Rent an ABS grinder with a Coromant disc and grind off the tops. Don't forget a vacuum cleaner for the grinder.
Matti_75: Available at building suppliers that sell kitchens, and I don't mean discount stores.
Snailman: [citat] Yes, I installed some similar boxes like Biltema's but from Claes Ohlsson, there was a discount if you bought at least ten, installed them in the ceiling for the smoke detectors, saved some money compared to the VP2 boxes. (Have they stopped offering bulk discounts, or is it just in-store?) https://www.clasohlson.com/se/Apparatdosa,-dubbelgips/p/36-4973 Biltema and Claes Ohlsson have the
Stefan N: Rather like putty. https://www.bemix.se/produkt/bemix-betongspackel/ But you can't just apply it and expect it to turn out well; you have to finish it with a sponge and water to wash away the excess.
Tompafix: [citat] From previous thread https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/mtrl-till-liten-skateboard-ramp.364001/
flygarkammen: Hi. I'm contemplating a carport where we want to utilize the entire available space, which is 8 meters wide and 9 meters deep. The idea is to build a storage section of 8x3 meters at the back of the carport. I get the suggestion below in the calculator but I'm a complete novice when it comes to load-bearing, so I gratefully accept any opinions. What I am particularly wondering about is which
Hasselhagen: Planning to build a 3D window that "wraps around a corner" similar to the one in the picture, but not as deep since I don't want the wood to discolor underneath. I'm thinking about 10-20 deep. Those of you who have similar, how have you built yours or where have you ordered your windows?
z_bumbi: [citat] Glue wet, the screw pushes/pulls apart the stick and the fibers together with the glue form threads around the screw. But use a toothpick or a piece of a popsicle stick instead of a matchstick. If it's difficult to remove the screw later, heat it with a soldering iron.
zarkov: I haven't had time to tear up the whole floor yet, but I will try to find some time this weekend or at the beginning of next week. It may be that only the board floor has sunk; the joists looked pretty straight from underneath, from what little I could see.
datja: [citat] Try scraping up some more hidden seam. If there's no reinforcement, reinforce and fill, sand and paint. I'm not sure if you should use industry standard with paper strips or self-adhesive fiberglass mesh which is easier to get up on the ceiling. I can only speak from my own experience, but we extended our house 5x11m in 2 stories with lecablock but with wooden intermediate floors and
Anne G: Which plaster can I use? Preferably something pre-mixed if available for purchase. There was once a weave on the wall, as well as a renovation wallpaper above it, and now I just want to paint. Can't use coarse filler, it doesn't adhere. This is an interior wall in the basement, the house was built in 1968. Thanks in advance.
J_P_K: Update in retrospect: The glue did NOT contain asbestos after analysis. To others reading and wondering about the same thing: Submit sample(s) if you're worried and spare yourself uncertainty and anxiety.
padrecam: The inspector approves the calculation and the proposal. Thank you for your help.
VLJ: Follow-up question: Is there any potential risk of screwing and gluing untreated studs to this so that Cuprinol ends up in between? I've encountered some problems (see the project thread https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/projekt-kompakt-tvaettstuga.482512/#post-5147263) It shouldn't be, of course, since the subfloor has been nailed against it without any visible impact.
Kane: [citat] Those dimensions are based on a snow load of 250 kg/m2.
jawen: It is generally estimated that it dries 1 mm per day, but that is the formula for laying a covering over it, i.e., a tight mat on top. If you are just using the self-leveling compound as the surface, it should be hard enough in 6-8 hours. You could lay tiles over early, as it still dries through its joints.
Akerfeldt: [citat] Need to review the ventilation in the attic to avoid the condensation issue. Therefore, I thought it would be good to have plastic in the inner ceiling to prevent warmer air from rising upwards.
fribygg: Inside your existing standing frame, I would screw 45x95 horizontally, then horizontal OSB and vertical plasterboard.
fribygg: [citat] Put in a new 'Örnpapp', it's quick, easy, and cheap to do it now.
Stefan N: Putshake. https://www.toolab.se/tebo-putshake-fyrkantig-300x7mm?gclid=CjwKCAiAjPyfBhBMEiwAB2CCIgmsN060kUBOqlMq1Sc7Yd8hh5tEmEmBdz8dYAFYz6mQBuytUNsXBhoCE4MQAvD_BwE
Rofaj: If I moisturize first and then apply putty and let it dry, should I also moisten the putty a little for the next round of putty?
sturnus: Jag tror det är en bärande vägg. Even if the joists of the second floor are as one part, the one that supports them would not bend too much. The drawing shows that the span of the outer walls is about 8 m. The solution is to leave 2-3 logs under the ceiling as a joist, because I suppose the walls of this building are logs. Next to the walls, I would use pillars supporting this joist.
niklas nord: Hello! I have put together a small garage at home, and since I have plenty of ceiling height, I thought about building a mezzanine against two of the walls in the garage. The depth of the mezzanine will be about 2-2.5 meters, and the distances between the supports are 4 and 6 meters. I would like to manage without more posts, and I assume I can skip one beam towards the wall and thus avoid one of
Tjrex: The floor needs movement space and in this way it becomes easier for the baseboard to cover any gap.
witten: [citat] It's such a soft material that the cuts are nice almost regardless of which blade you use. A wood blade works but it will be worn out after a few hours. I found a fiber cement blade for the miter saw on Amazon, not available in any Swedish stores. Other tips are stone saw blades for the jigsaw, diamond saws for the multi-tool, and a handsaw you don't mind sacrificing. It's also possible
Testarn: If it's a newly built house, you probably have construction drawings that show how the walls are built, and there you can see if there is a wooden board behind the plasterboard and where the plastic in the outer wall is located. In interior walls, it doesn't matter if screws go into the insulation, but in the outer wall, you don't want to make holes in the plastic foil that sits behind the
fribygg: Construction 2"x3" holds up well even if you place it on the flat, any possible bending is hardly a problem in this case.