Building Materials and Construction Technology
Qaniel: My favorite plug is Fischer ux. Then, as stated above, there is no countersunk head on the screw. If it's an apartment building, try to stay under 3cm so you'll probably avoid the electrical and water pipes too :)
Stockholms: Hello, Need some tips and advice... Long story short... Condominium. Concrete frame. We have torn out all the flooring, laid new, and built 2 new internal walls. For various reasons, the walls were mounted directly on the old floor before we tore out the old floor and laid the new one. So now the internal wall is mounted as follows: Concrete frame. Between the sill and the concrete is the old
DesertCruiser: [citat] I will have a corner floor drain and plan to have a slope of 10 mm/m straight through the entire bathroom, so the highest point after self-leveling compound will be 30 mm above the floor drain level. Or did I misunderstand your question now?
Svanteman: If you're not like us (i.e., gadget-obsessed and tool-crazy), for some interior walls, I would just screw in one screw at a time and be a bit careful; the walls will be done before you can get home with the new machine. Otherwise, the standard answer is probably the same brand you already have batteries for... Looking at corded options, I have a Pela for some reason, works okay but nothing more,
Grillen: [citat] Thanks for the detailed explanation, then that's what I'll do. I guess I'm just extra anxious since you don't want anything to happen once you've poured the concrete and laid the tiles :giggle:
Johan_Berg: We are going to install a Kährs 15mm parquet floor in a multi-family house from the 1950s. The floor is a concrete slab with a layer of sand/gravel and a thin layer of concrete on top. It is important that there is no disturbing noise to the neighbors below. Is Kährs Tuplex sufficient as an underlayment, or do we need something else? I was recommended Decibex but can't find much information
peroande: Now I have opened up a bit more and noted that there is no stud above the wall. The studs are evenly distributed with 60 cm centers, and the wall stands between two of them without any connection upwards. So just tear it down!
Philipgbg: If someone else is in the same/similar position. I solved it with spackle. Spackled in layers. Turned out nice.
Ludvig1987: Hello. I'm working on the final touches in the lower hall and having difficulty choosing a cover strip or what might work best in this situation. I've torn everything down and put up new drywall on the walls and ceiling. Against the stairs, I would need to create a neat solution against the drywall and also in the ceiling where it was previously lowered with a beam that the ceiling trim rested
Lifestyle: [citat] Good, then perhaps there is the option (even if the conditions might vary between different houses) to insert it later by placing it on the attic side of the roof decking under the insulation, simply. Vapor barrier, noting for potential future attic insulation. Thanks for the input!
fribygg: [citat] Hammer and chisel are quick, easy, and precise enough for a pergola
hc77: Hello, I am going to install a new ceiling in a renovated bathroom. The existing ceiling is wooden paneling with insulation above and a cold attic. Between the paneling and the insulation, there is currently some form of vapor barrier paper. The house was built in 1974. I assume I can put the drywall directly on the paneling, or should I install a new vapor barrier between the drywall and the
fribygg: 22x95 is not too flimsy to support the subfloor; many old houses have used formwork like 1x4-5" or waney edge boards both as supports and subfloor boards, and it has worked for a lifetime now.
Kvisthberg: [citat] Switch to a longer screw.
Deboerak: [citat] Thanks for the answer! Yes, it felt a bit silly..
Repkire: [citat] Thanks for the quick response. Would love info on the dimension and attachment of the treads.
Joonathaan: As the headline says, do you think this is lime plaster!? House from the 60s where the outer walls in this room have a "looser plaster" but still not so that it just collapses. I have taken pieces to the building store and they also think it is lime plaster.. IF I plaster with Weber 148 lime (hydraulic) It says to waffle the surface for the top coat to adhere better, but do you really have to
MrJay: Brush with a wire brush, spray on or apply zinc paint with a brush. Done.
Tompafix: [citat] Yes, concretely you will then need to remove the floor along that stretch or the ceiling. Then you need to check where the studs are so that you can place the duct between them.
jawen: [citat] Are you trying to reduce structural noise or voices, i.e. sounds from people, TVs, and the like? Structural noise (when people walk, run, thump on the floor) is transmitted through the floor into the walls & other connected structures. Rooms also function like a speaker, where resonances amplify the sound. If it's structural noise that bothers you, you should consider some form of
UffeMalmis: [citat] I saw that it is available at Hornbach and shipping cost is 250 kr. That's how it will be! :)
Aron Roger: [citat] It's not a "completely ordinary" beam support, but it's also not super advanced for a reasonably experienced engineer, so it should be resolved. If I had to guess, it will come down to how much beam depth you can accept versus columns. Simply what is least disruptive.
MrDizzy: Personally, I would probably choose wood filler / Chemist wood instead of latex.
myrstack: [citat] You should still use paper tape. Even if the substrate is basically not moving, leca and other "dead" substrates move slightly differently than gypsum. For instance, my joints on renovation gypsum glued on light concrete have a hairline crack in winter where there isn't any tape.
HogeN: [citat] it could have been. I have Haltex on the walls myself.. applied a thin layer of wallpaper glue and let it dry before putting up the wallpaper.. looks normal but if something falls against the wall, it leaves marks.