Dimension interior wall?

[Viktor.J]

Or stone wool... But it depends on what requirements one has... Gypsum on both sides and fiberglass is usually sufficient in most cases in a normal residence.
If one has higher requirements than that, one also needs soundproof doors, ventilation, etc...

Exactly, it quickly becomes academic Gypsum on both sides, OSB, some type of insulation is sufficient for most.

 

[mattiasohult]

Or stone wool... But it depends on what requirements one has... Gypsum on both sides and glass wool is sufficient in most cases in a normal residence.
If one has higher requirements, then soundproof doors, ventilation, etc., are necessary...

Exactly, it quickly becomes academic Gypsum on both sides, OSB, some type of insulation suffices for most.

So in summary, this is sufficient for a regular villa: 45x70 > 45 insulation > OSB > gypsum?

 

[useless]

Yes. Then the wall will be about 118 mm thick, which is standard for frames for interior doors, which makes things a lot easier.

 

[Viktor.J]

So in summary, is this enough for a regular house: 45x70 > 45 insulation > OSB > gypsum?

I wouldn't skimp on the insulation. If you're going to do it, you might as well do it properly
The difference is in bathrooms if you intend to run pipes in the wall, then you usually have 45x90.
It also depends on how you want the wall to feel, what you want to hang up, etc.

 

[Testarn]

Hello everyone!

I am in the process of renovating a house built in '79 where the current interior walls consist of "studs" that are 28x45, a thin board glued to the studs, and no insulation in the wall. Since I plan to install new electrical wiring and also want insulation in the interior walls, my thought is that it's best to tear down and redo all the interior walls. In this case, the exterior walls are load-bearing, so I don't need to consider the load-bearing function.

There are a couple of questions where I feel like you hear different recommendations.

Dimension of the studs? 45x70 or 45x95?
Insulation? 45, 70, or 95? Rock wool or fiberglass?
Boards? Single gypsum, chipboard + single gypsum, OSB + single gypsum, double gypsum?

How would you do it?

In our new upper floor, we built all the interior walls with gypsum + OSB on metal studs 45x70 and have 45 mm fiberglass.
The studs stand on a metal track with an EPDM rubber strip against the floor chipboard, the boards have staggered seams, and we've sealed the corners with latex caulk. Also up towards the ceiling and floor.
By having 45 mm insulation in a 70 mm cavity, the sound waves get an additional transition between materials, which dampens the sound.
OSB allows you to hang anything, anywhere on the walls, but if you want additional soundproofing, double gypsum and denser insulation can help.
There are also insulating adhesives/sealants to use between the boards and on the studs, but then we're getting into advanced courses for villa walls.

Then you need soundproof doors to match the walls, which can also be something to think about.

We are happy with our walls. Well tested after a couple of years with home offices and gaming teenagers...

 

[Jochi]

Hello!

I'm in the process of renovating a house built in '79 where the current interior walls consist of "studs" that are 28x45, a thin board glued to the studs, and no insulation in the wall. Since I plan to install new electrical wiring and also want insulation in the interior walls, my thought is that it's just as well to tear down and redo all the interior walls. In this case, the exterior walls are load-bearing, so I don't need to consider the load-bearing function.

There are a couple of questions where I feel one hears different recommendations.

Stud dimensions? 45x70 or 45x95?
Insulation? 45, 70 or 95? Stone wool or glass wool?
Boards? Single gypsum, Particle board + single gypsum, OSB + single gypsum, double gypsum?

What would you do?

Good for partition wall with 45 x 70 studs, plywood or particle board + 13 gypsum on both sides. Fully insulated with 70 stone wool. I wouldn't want to hang upper cabinets in the kitchen with two screws in gypsum board.

 

[Installation]

The insulation in a wall handles internal resonances, nothing else. The weight of the surface layers and the distance between these layers determine the natural frequency of the wall. Plasterboard, for example, is cheap, good, and relatively heavy, about 10kg/m2. The downside is that it loses a number of dB at the harmonic overtones of the natural frequency. Let's say it's 100 Hz, then the plasterboard loses at 200, 400, etc. A 70 wall with double plasterboard has a reduction value of around 35 dB when done correctly. With 45 insulation, it has a reduction of 40 dB. That's better. So it absolutely doesn't hurt. It's also important to seal with a soft sealant to make it tight against the floor and ceiling.

The insulation works as an absorber in the space. Imagine a 1.5-liter PET bottle has a resonance frequency of, say, 100 Hz. If you put insulation into it, it instead absorbs that frequency.

 

[Jochi]

The insulation in a wall takes care of internal resonances and nothing else. The weight of the surface layers and the distance between these surface layers determine the wall's natural frequency. Gypsum, for example, is cheap, good, and relatively heavy at about 10kg/m2.

The downside is that it loses several dB at harmonic overtones of the natural frequency. Say it is 100 Hz, then the gypsum loses at 200, 400, etc. A 70 wall with double gypsum has a reduction value around 35 dB if done correctly. With 45 insulation, it is at 40 dB in reduction. That's better. So it absolutely doesn't hurt. It is also important to use soft sealant to make it airtight against the floor and ceiling.

The insulation works as an absorber in the space. Think of a 1.5-liter PET bottle that has a resonance frequency of, say, 100 Hz. If you insert insulation into it, it absorbs that frequency instead.

I recall an old rule of thumb: if you double the weight of a wall, the sound reduction increases by 5 dB.

 

[Installation]

I remember an old rule of thumb: if you double the weight of a wall, the sound reduction increases by 5 dB.

that is probably about right.

 

[Huddingebo]

It is possible to build rigid and stiff walls with 45mm studs as well if you want to utilize every cm. I glued and screwed OSB on 45 studs cc30. On top of that, glued and screwed drywall. Stiff as heck.

 

[mattiasohult]

It's possible to build rigid and non-flexible walls with 45mm studs as well if you want to utilize every cm.
I screwed and glued OSB onto 45mm studs cc30. On top of that, screwed and glued plasterboard.
Rigid as hell.

How is the soundproofing in the wall?

 

[Huddingebo]

How is the sound insulation in the wall?

I haven't noticed it being any worse than other walls.
Filled the wall with mineral wool.

 

[NatBat]

It's possible to build rigid and stiff walls with 45mm studs as well if you want to make use of every cm.
I used screw-glued OSB on 45 studs cc30. On top of that, screw-glued gypsum.
Stiff as heck.

Hi, how exciting, I was thinking of using 45*45 to save centimeters. I was wondering about the center-to-center distance of the studs. Why did you choose cc 300? Did you have 900 or 1200 gypsum? I will have both variants.

 

[Huddingebo]

Hi, how exciting, I was thinking of using 45*45 to save centimeters. I was pondering the spacing of the studs. Why did you choose cc 300? Did you have 900 or 1200 drywall? I will have both variants

I chose it because 45 studs have significantly lower bending resistance compared to 70 studs. The bending resistance increases in square relation to the "depth" when you calculate the geometry. So cc30 is typically like that of 70 studs that are cc45.

But with glued and screwed layers of sheets, it becomes very stiff anyway.

Furthermore, 45 studs are very cheap, so you can use plenty of them. I had 70 lying against the floor and 45 in the ceiling, and then I got two standing from a cut 4800mm length.