Which walls are load-bearing?

[Lilhenk]

Hello,
We have some plans to open up a bit in our house built in '74. However, we are a little unsure about which walls might be load-bearing and if that would stop any plans. I have marked in red what we would like to remove, including wardrobes, some around door openings, and we had planned to install sliding glass doors instead of part of the wall between the walk-in closet and the bedroom.
I would be very grateful if someone could answer which walls are load-bearing, as I am unsure if it is easy to see on the drawing.

 

[Tompafix]

Hi,
We have some plans to open up a bit in our house built in '74. However, we are a bit unsure which walls might be load-bearing and if that would put a stop to some plans. I have marked a bit in red what we would like to remove, including closets, some around door openings, and we are thinking of installing sliding glass doors instead of part of the wall between the walk-in closet and bedroom.
I would be very grateful if someone could tell me which walls are load-bearing, as I am unsure if it can be easily seen on the drawing.

Hard to see on a floor plan. What type of roof trusses do you have and is there another floor?
Normally, walls that run perpendicular to roof trusses or the floor structure are load-bearing. So if I were to guess from the picture, the horizontal walls are load-bearing. Could be one or both. Then there are types of roof trusses that are self-supporting, and usually, no interior walls are load-bearing.

You can safely remove the closets. Making door openings a bit wider is not a problem, might just require a slightly stronger beam over the door. The wall for the walk-in closet, however, might need to be supported.

 

[Lilhenk]

Hard to tell from a floor plan. What type of trusses do you have, and is there another floor?
Normally, walls that run perpendicular to trusses or the floor joists are load-bearing. So if I were to guess about the picture, the horizontal walls are load-bearing. It could be one or both. Then there are truss types that are self-supporting, and in those cases, usually, no interior walls are load-bearing.

You can definitely remove the closets. Widening the door openings is no problem, you might just need a slightly stronger stud above the door. The wall to the walk-in closet might need to be switched out though.

Unsure about the type of trusses right now and there's just one floor.
Great, now I know. Thanks for the reply!

 

[BirgitS]

Can you take a picture of the roof trusses, or do you have more technical drawings (section drawings) where it is possible to see what they look like?

 

[Lilhenk]

Can you take a picture of the roof trusses or do you have more technical drawings (sectional drawing) where it's possible to see how they look?

I'll look more to see if we have one but haven't found it yet unfortunately.

 

[Tompafix]

Will check more if we have one but unfortunately haven't found yet

If you have access to the attic, take a picture and you might be able to get an assessment.

 

[Lilhenk]

If you have access to the attic, take a picture, and you might get an assessment.

Maybe bad pictures but that's how it looks from the laundry and towards the closet.

 

[BirgitS]

It looks like trusses, and then no interior walls should be load-bearing.

 

[Tompafix]

It looks like truss rafters and then no interior walls should be load-bearing.

Agree with the above. Is the span about 9-10m?

 

[Lilhenk]

Sounds great. The house is approximately 10m wide.

 

[Tompafix]

Sounds great. The house is about 10m wide

What might happen is that the roof will start to sag a bit more if you remove some of the walls that run perpendicular to the roof trusses. If you wanted to install glass sliding doors into the closet, you can put a vertical stud over the sliding doors just to be safe. It doesn't cost many kronor. Then you will also see how the wall is constructed when you remove the drywall.