Building Materials and Construction Technology
Tompafix: [citat] Everything depends on how the intermediate floor is constructed. A beam from A to B should be enough. But nothing can really be answered without seeing it on site.
atomlab: Perhaps get a rock driller who can drill in anchors that are injected into the rock with?
bearmaniac: I'm not a construction expert, but at my in-laws' country house, there are a couple of older buildings where the outer paneling is load-bearing (and has survived 50 winters). Inside the outer paneling, there's some form of frame construction (45x45), but the studs seem to mostly serve as something to hold the paneling together and keep insulation in place. I believe the construction of the
Björn_Nilsson: [citat] Interesting and thanks for the reply. Did they tape the seams in the fabric?
MathiasS: Metal studs and drywall would be my minimum level. Preferably some insulation in the wall as well for soundproofing (doesn't need to be the entire cavity).
mattedublin: Did it work out, what type of filler did you use? Does it work to paint with silicate paint directly on the board without any primer?
Uppner: Is there anyone here who is an expert or at least has experience with Centro's waterproofing products who can give some tips? Yesterday afternoon from 17-19 (i.e., about 18-20 hours ago) I waterproofed my new laundry room with Centro's products TM#F and TM#2K. I believe I followed Centro's (admittedly somewhat unclear, but still) instructions to the letter. So it should have been done correctly.
Gooli: I set the panel upright and it was then painted only on the outside to allow it to breathe and dry out inward. There is an overhang of about 30 cm above so that minimal rain reaches it.
Avemo: Previously, people often used chipboard on the walls and wallpapered directly on them. It often cracks at the joints. I can imagine that it’s easy to have the same problem with MDF. Regarding moisture, MDF is not as water-resistant as one might wish for kitchen cabinets. But that is not the issue here. This is not a place that will be particularly exposed to moisture. Gypsum is not particularly
gfs: Yes, it is wood. I tried to remove a plank, but it was difficult because it is glued. I could see wood underneath (or above!).
Demmpa: [citat] You need to remove the remnants of the plug around the edge of the hole. But it's probably a "regular" screw in the hole and wedges between the frame & wall (stud). The screw is very far out (near the door leaf) for it to be a frame sleeve. But it could potentially be the wrong type of screw so that the screw is on the edge of the frame sleeve.
bygges: Thanks for the info about lightweight beams! What's the deal with OSB as a surface layer before the paneling?
TheGame: [citat] [citat] Thanks for the answers. I don't have a plunge saw, just a regular circular saw. However, I can borrow a hand router.
BirgitS: As an amateur, I believe that in all the knee walls there are roof trusses that support the roof, including the knee wall referred to as Klk by one of the staircases. I recommend that you bring in a structural engineer because it's difficult to know how houses, built before standardization began, are constructed. This floor has also been remodeled later on.
Installation: [citat] I would say you need to have fire-rated. Certainly at least EI30. The roof truss is another requirement but related to load-bearing capacity. If they are made of wood, you usually don't need to fuss.
Lappa123: [citat] Apparently, I didn't include the image?
Delar: [citat] Could it be the quality of the doors? Because I have the same doors as in the picture and in 50 years, I've never experienced anything like doors swelling.
Tompafix: It depends a bit on what you prioritize. A few extra cm in height, at the cost of more beams. This table is made for residential load, so you can easily go down a dimension if you want, but then you have to accept a bit more deflection over time. 195mm with screw-laminated floor chipboard is more than sufficient at cc600mm [bild]
luksi1: [citat] Same old method as before. I don't want to replace drywall unless needed.
KjellTimell: Unfortunately, I don't know how PL200 behaves. Sika T2 grabbed immediately though, it was even difficult to "slide" the new surface layer into exactly the right position - it grabbed that well.
Per Eskilsson: Our windowsills are made of eternit. They are good and last forever. Nothing to worry about when they are in place.
z_bumbi: Is it slag from combustion (coal) or from metal production? The first is compacted ash with a bit more tar, while the second can be hard and comes in different colors. The latter has been used as ballast in concrete as recently as the fifties (the core samples from that house were really fascinating).
Rickard.lj: Yes, you fill up with Leca balls, then concrete, prime the floor if it's free from paint and oil, then you should have a laser to see where the highest point is, there is something called level pins which you then cut to the right height from the highest point and maybe in your case 60cm between all the pins, so you just start plastering. Mix the plaster with the max recommended water amount so
Installation: [citat] It's likely there are RE30 requirements for a steel beam in a single-family house. 2 layers of plasterboard or 1 layer of protect F plasterboard. But as Matti says, it can be done so that it adds just a few millimeters more than the board depth of 26 or 15 mm. Or fire paint.
Klabbis 3000: [citat] Oh okay, now I've applied it at the bottom and then had Tec7 and smoothed on top, and it looks okay at least. It was a rather wide seal so I thought I'd use up what I had left, and the surface had hardened so I could paint over it.
Klass0n: Thanks for the response! I thought that there might be some air in the flex hose which then can be considered as "surrounding". Oh well, I'll stop worrying and continue building! 🙂