Building Materials and Construction Technology
AndersS: Works well with ordinary brick if you have an insert that you burn in. Have chiseled away the refractory in a previously open fireplace to make room for a Keddy insert.
Ohchips: This is what we've done in our attic spaces. Simple and functional. We also placed a clothes rail between the sloped ceiling and the wall by the window for hanging, which is not shown in the picture. We still get light from the window, but the view out is worse. We didn't think it mattered, as we don't spend much time in them, other than when we take out and put in clothes.
HEM2121: [citat] Fill and paint. A slightly more expensive option, buy renovation work, check the prices of renovation wallpaper as it can vary greatly in price. You save a lot of work with renovation wallpaper. If the hole has no function, place a piece of wood, gypsum, and screw it on or glue it on, depending on the situation, i.e., if there is anything to screw into. There's probably someone on the
TheGambler79: [citat] Yes exactly, I also beveled the transverse bars on the hatch so it guides correctly without hitting anything. I use it daily so I wanted it to be as lightweight as possible.
MoveMe: [citat] Is wall-to-wall carpet better than gypsum?
Dublin: I found this description of different types of docks. I was probably thinking of a solution they describe under Free-standing dock, where you do a slightly larger casting instead of separate foundations. https://www.beijerbygg.se/privat/sv/bygga-brygga But foundations can certainly work too if they are well anchored.
Workingclasshero: [citat] I agree here. If the floor is to be insulated, you should plan for a sub-floor and fill with suitable material. You should err on the side of caution so you don't end up with too weak a floor if you don't know how you want to furnish it, thick floorboards as previously suggested. Just make sure to clear away all the debris from the ground first. Good luck. /W
ImTheBeast: [citat] How did you attach the stair nosing? Screw+plug or just screw? Doesn't it creak when you step on the stair after installing laminate and the edge molding?
imported_Benno: [citat] Yes, if the door is properly installed, i.e., opens outward. ;)
Lena Elisabet: Does anyone know what tile this is? Need help finding where I can order it. Regards, Lena
Düsseldorff: [citat] Got it! But skip the screw anyway...
Pielstick: Hello. I have a ceiling beam/intermediate floor, the bottom part of a truss in a 1 1/2-story house built in 1946, which is sagging quite significantly, about 40mm at most. The beam is 6x2" rough sawn, which means it's only about 150mm high. A wall for an upstairs bathroom rests on this beam. The beam spans freely about 6m between the outer wall and the inner wall. How would you go about
Mellanbarn: Any hinge if you can accept a gap as large as the thickness of the board, will still not be completely tight against a brick wall. Hinges for kitchen cabinets work the same way.
Allinug: This concerns a brick house built in 1963 on a slab foundation. The pipes to an original outdoor faucet have been leaking in the wall of a laundry room. But we don't think it leaked excessively. The outdoor faucet has now been replaced and the leakage stopped. But work remains: 1. What type of mortar is used to fill a round hole about 5 cm in the brick facade after the old faucet? It is red brick
ElleH: Thank you for the response! Am I marginally shortening the lifespan or is it significantly? There's also the option to set them standing but angled and spliced - is that better? I should also consider turning them, but then I miss the beveled edges, which do have an aesthetic value on a gate 😊
rsa: [citat] You can read about it in several places. Search a bit on the internet and you'll find more information. It's important to get the entire construction right, from the outer roof all the way to the inner roof. https://sjomarkens.se/tejpskolan-bygg-utan-luftspalt/
cola1337: Hello, I'm in the process of modernizing the house and will be installing a network in conduits, approximately 20 conduits in total. I have an L-shaped house with 1.5 floors in the main section and 1 floor in the extension, and the "server room" will be at the far end of the extension. I need to go up into the attic through the vapor barrier and then further into the crawl space in the main
klaskarlsson: [citat] Can't you insulate with XPS/EPS (Styrofoam) from underneath then - for example 70mm?
jonaserik: You have a slab directly on the base (soil/a little gravel) in one room you have tiles, then any moisture airs out through the joints. Worse with a painted concrete floor, maybe a form of sealing paint, it accumulates moisture from underneath in the slab and the only way out is by being absorbed into the wall and venting that way. No dense materials or organic on a basement floor that lies
jelg: Hi! I wonder if I'm doing it right? A house from 1939 and in the stairs down to the basement (soutterräng) I had to remove the wallpaper and the masonite due to the plastic wallpaper. When I rebuild the wall, I thought I might as well add some insulation and run electrical wiring behind it. Am I thinking correctly? See image.
Emrob: [citat] Hi! It's been a while since you posted this, but how did it go? I have also tried googling, but I'm not getting very far with it either. We have also bought a 1.5-story villa, from '64, and we have a wood-burning stove in the basement that needs to be removed. It also creates two strange shafts that take up unnecessary space both in the living room and the large bedroom. Don't know what
Workingclasshero: Waiting for galvanization, today I received the invoice for 12 frames, 2062 kronor. Reasonable price, 170 kronor each, starting fee of 1230 and 300 kronor for the galvanization plus VAT for those wondering. But as usual, I made a mistake and measured a countersunk screw with a head that is too small compared to what's available in the store. Pick up next week, so a report will follow. /W
Queen15: Heating the house with an insert model pellet stove placed in the old open fireplace from the late 1800s. However, I would like to demolish at least part of the open fireplace so that a full-sized pellet stove could be placed there instead. The selection becomes incredibly limited when you're only able to fit an insert; there are significantly better stoves when you can choose a floor model. This
Dahlberg68: [citat] Maybe a part of a colored glass block with LED lights, could be charming 🙂
Mats-S: OK, then we have the leak there! Remove all the old caulking and redo it with fresh bathroom silicone. Just putting new silicone on top of the old one doesn't work. (see my problem with my skylight in the post above), a total cleaning is essential to make it watertight :-) The same applies to you, you need to keep an eye on this and maintain it before the sealing becomes bad again. I would also
Arne Stenger: [citat] Hi, the method we initially designed is a solution from Finja. It's correct that the wall above doesn't move because of the reinforcement. The layers in between are meant to ensure that water doesn't rise through capillary action. There are also other bitumen solutions for this.