Door frame swelling after installation?

[Ironside]

Hello,

After a few weeks, the door leaf now strikes the frame just above the door handle on the left side. This is what the door looks like:



The frame is 100% straight, but you can see that the door leans slightly outward. We have also noticed this on other filled doors we have installed, likely due to the weight of the door; tightening the screws does not help.

This is a soundproof installation, i.e., it is a frame with a list, and around the door frame, we have applied Tec7. The door frame is mounted with adjufix sleeves and extra thick and long screws for hollow brick without plugs.

I have tried to adjust the millimeters needed here, but unfortunately, it only resulted in the screw damaging the hollow brick so that it no longer serves any purpose. However, the frame is still in place, likely due to Tec7.

So, what do I do here? Do I need to cut open all the Tec7 with a multitool and then drill a new hole in the frame for a regular frame screw to be installed from the outside?

Or can something be injected into the screw hole to make the screw grip again, allowing adjustment once the Tec7 is cleared away?

It's really frustrating because we thought the door was installed very well.

 

[Demmpa]

You should not have tried to adjust the frame sleeves; instead, you should have gotten a hinge adjuster 13 mm, and adjusted the upper hinge, https://www.bauhaus.se/gangjarnsriktare-13-mm.

It would have also been better with drevremsa instead of foam, because with drevremsa, you can adjust the frame afterward.

I would probably have removed the door frame (loosened all the frame sleeves, e.g., half a turn), then filled two holes on each side,
Reinstalled the frame, made new holes in the fillings,
Removed the frame again,
Filled the remaining holes,
Reinstalled the frame again, made new holes in the fillings.

Exactly what I would have filled the holes with, I don't know—maybe with some foam, plugs, plaster, etc.

 

[tommib]

Such hinges can't be aligned, can they?

 

[Krille-72]

Such hinges cannot be adjusted, can they?

They can be adjusted. But in this case, I'm not sure it helps. I think you might get the answer if you use a long level/ruler on the lock side. I suspect the frame is like a banana and needs to be forced in at the middle.

 

[Byggmarodören]

They look like the doors we bought from Bauhaus. They are relatively heavy, so we had to adjust several hinges with a hinge adjuster for them to hang straight after installation, but since then they have worked well for almost two years. However, for a few days now, almost all the doors have started hitting the edge, so they seem to have swollen several mm (due to weather?)

 

[Ironside]

I have a hinge adjuster with 2 sizes but it only fits the older type, I haven't been able to get it on the new ones. It might be possible to hammer it in but that seems like the wrong way to go?

We were really satisfied with this mounting, so if we can avoid taking down the entire frame just because it's a couple of mm off in one spot, it would be worth its weight in gold.

The door has goldfiber insulation between the frame and the wall, but to stop airflow (which is important for soundproofing), we also applied Tec7 both on the inside and outside between the frame and wall. Tec7 isn't very deep, maybe just a few cm from both sides. It should be relatively easy to cut away with the multi-tool, one might think.

Right now I'm thinking that first we cut away the Tec7 around the area that needs adjustment, then press Tec7 into the hole that is wrong, and then in with the screw. Once it's dry, we should be able to adjust the few mm needed? Otherwise, we can put a new frame screw above, even if it's not pretty, the problem is that frame screws usually attach much less effectively in the frame compared to adjufix sleeves.

 

[Fotografen]

I would calm down a bit, when it becomes winter and cold and dry, it will move in another direction.

 

[Ironside]

They can be adjusted. But in this case, I'm not sure if it helps. I think maybe you'll get the answer if you place a long level/straightedge on the lock side. I suspect that the frame is like a banana and needs to be forced into the middle.

I have placed the 180 cm level along the frames, and they are still 100% plumb and also straight. On site, you can see that the gap at the top is slightly larger than the gap at the bottom on the hinge side, so a guess is that the upper hinge has given way slightly, right now it's not much, we're talking about maybe 1-2 mm.

The problem we made during installation is that we probably should have adjusted it with more clearance. I'm not a craftsman, so sometimes you have to learn certain things the hard way, unfortunately.

I don't believe the frame has actually moved; it seems to be rock solid with screws and Tec7. However, it's possible that the wood has expanded slightly, which is causing the issue.

We've installed 4 other doors as well, and one of them warped a few weeks ago. However, this was a molded door, not a solid one. Luckily, we hadn't put up moldings or Tec7 there, so it was easy to adjust.

 

[Ironside]

They look like the doors we bought from bauhaus. They are relatively heavy, so we had to adjust several hinges with a hinge adjuster for them to hang straight after installation, but since then it has worked well for almost two years.
However, for the past few days, almost all the doors have started hitting the edge, so they seem to have swelled several mm (due to weather?)

Yes, the doors are really heavy, almost weigh like exterior doors! We installed a 20x9 compact door of the same brand and model, and we immediately had problems with the upper hinge, the door sagged. We got new hinges and new brackets for the door and frame. You can still see that it hangs a bit, but now it's within okay limits at least.

The door in the picture can still be closed, but it feels like there's resistance and the risk is that the paint will get scuffed.

 

[Ironside]

I would calm down a bit, when it becomes winter and cold and dry, it will move in a different direction.

The problem is probably that the paint can wear off and next summer we'll have the same problem again.

 

[Ironside]

Here is someone who has managed to crack the correct way to adjust their hinge, but the problem seems to be finding a tool that fits. The alternative is, of course, to grind the one you have.

https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/justera-innerdoerr-snap-in-gangjaern.315471/

 

[Krille-72]

Have laid the 180 cm spirit level along the frames and they are still 100% plumb and also straight. On site, you can see that the gap at the top is slightly larger than the gap at the bottom on the hinge side, so a guess is that the upper hinge has given slightly, right now it's not much, we're talking maybe 1-2 mm.

The problem we made during installation is that we probably should have adjusted it with more clearance. I'm not a craftsman, so sometimes you have to learn some things the hard way, unfortunately.

I don't believe the frame has actually moved; it seems to be bolted hard with screws and Tec7. However, it's possible that the wood has expanded slightly, which is causing problems.

We have also installed 4 other doors and one of them warped as well a few weeks ago. However, this was a molded door, not solid. Luckily we hadn't put trim or Tec7 there so it was easy to adjust.

If you've checked the lock side thoroughly to ensure there's no bow in the middle, it's probably easiest to buy a hinge adjuster that fits the door. Start by tightening the upper hinge slightly. If needed, you can also loosen the lower hinge a bit.

 

[Demmpa]

One can see that the gap on the hinge side is considerably wider at the top than at the bottom, and one can also see that the gap increases the higher up it goes.

However, the problem seems to be finding a tool that fits.

In post 2 I linked to the correct tool.

Edit: I have straightened several of our interior doors when they have looked like in TS's picture. It is the upper hinge that needs adjusting, both the upper and lower part. It's important not to angle the parts so that it becomes “banana-shaped” but continues to be a straight line (vertical). I have a door in the basement that I need to adjust, it hits on the handle side, haven't had a chance to look at it yet, but I'll do that when we get home.

 

[plåtrickard]

Is it not possible to adjust those hinges with the mounting?

 

[Demmpa]

The only thing you can adjust on regular interior door hinges is the "tongue" that is "pressed into the door leaf" up/down by screwing two screws up/down on each hinge, that is, if the door leaf should come closer/"further away" from the threshold/header.

All other adjustments are made with a hinge adjuster.