Building Materials and Construction Technology
Krabbeluring: I think you misunderstand the guy. The wet room wallpaper conceals an older layer of tile adhesive well. That's often where you find asbestos, yes.
pelleulf: There wasn't much response to this thread, but now it's clear anyway. It was plaster with Weber mur and plaster mortar C. First a round of slamming and then a layer of plaster (12mm) that was skimmed for some texture. No mesh. It will be a very light and nice plaster (plaster A & B are darker gray) that will remain untreated.
myrstack: [citat] For me, gypsum plaster is easier to work with, and for indoor use above ground, you don't need anything cement-based. Additionally, gypsum plaster from certain manufacturers often allows application in thicknesses that can completely fill gaps, whereas many cement-based products might require several coats.
lunnabo: [citat] Five slabs in a row make two meters plus the joint. On the fourth row, the slabs run out after the 3rd slab.
Dankerz: [citat] Hi Hemmakatten. How did it go? Did you clay plaster your newly built walls? We are building a house, and I want to clay plaster some walls but am wondering what surface/board to use to make it work well when there isn't a log wall to attach it to. Daniel
pjkw: The proper way is probably to break up the chipboards, screw new studs into the old ones so you get new flat studs to place new chipboards on, followed by flooring then. Alternatively, try to plane the old studs straight. Regardless, it's a big job.
Filipbs: We replaced our papp with regular vapor barrier
MVJK: I have replaced the cast iron pipe and in doing so chiseled out a channel at home in the slab which is of the "sandwich model" type, i.e., 10cm concrete against the ground (sand), 5cm insulation, and 5cm concrete on top. Now that I'm about to pour concrete, I wonder... -What should I fill around the pipe and up to the level of the concrete slab with; stone dust, sand, something else? -How should
Kris1: But at the same time, the Gypsum was damp in the corner, so it's not an old damage.
Stefan1972: Gypsum filler that you mix yourself from powder is better. It doesn't sink like regular filler does and you can build up thickness right away.
jagharetthus: Hey, I'm thinking of casting a small step, about 15cm high, around 1x1 meter, maybe a little bigger or smaller. I'm considering the finish on the concrete, and I've been watching a lot on YouTube to see how other DIYers do it. I've watched many Americans at work, and basically, all the videos go like this: 1. Pour concrete, pack, vibrate 2. Smooth with a board 3. Smooth with a float 4. Use a
Viktor.J: Coarse concrete in a bag is really nice, no problem achieving a fine surface. If you mix it yourself and use 8-16, it can be harder to achieve a fine surface. I would go with coarse concrete any day of the week.
Alexn72: It is usually difficult to get it thin enough to attach and then withstand a car driving over... Is sanding an option?
Workingclasshero: Hello Lift with a jack. Replace the post. Separate between the glulam beam and the post with tar paper. Find the cause of the leak and fix it. Don't make up any quick fixes with sealant putty or chewing gum, but do a proper job right away. Good luck. /W
Thomas Antser: It is absolutely true that debris and moisture collect in the pockets created by external corner boards on horizontal siding. I am currently in the process of replacing siding that has been damaged for that reason. The corner boards and the ends of the siding have all suffered from rot damage.
Henrik Larsson78: [citat] You are right. The house is from 1923. The stucco work is surely 10 years old, and the painted plastic paint could be significantly older. The craftsman who pointed out the "fault" is experienced and credible, but I think it's a long shot to claim hidden fault in a legal sense even if it is, by definition, a hidden fault.
David_Berglund: I have a few meters where I need to use glue because I have a WC fixture behind the wall and I don't dare to use the nail gun. I've installed a 1mm stainless steel sheet behind the plasterboard there for safety as a puncture guard, but I'm counting on only using glue in that area. It's also a way to ensure that I don't have to nail so infernally much and get a board that stays secure and doesn't
mojjen: Installed silencers on each channel a few meters before the valve. Also sound-absorbing flex pipes between the spiro and the exhaust valve. Essentially to dampen the fan motor's noise and air noise, which is probably more likely to become more disturbing than cross-talk. (Except for the bedroom golf, though)
Demmpa: According to Nivell, the c/c should be approximately 500 mm, for all studs from 45*45 to 45*120, https://www.nivellsystem.se/wp-content/uploads/2021/07/nivell_handbok_golv_se.pdf
Victorbeck: [citat] 240 was simply the length of the boards I brought home from Hornbach... But I'm thinking maybe I'll do as some of you here suggest and add something at the bottom. And of course, also secure the upper cabinets to each other and to the wardrobes! Thanks everyone for the input!
@ndreas: [citat] That slab weighs 60 kg and you want a leg in each corner? Hmm... Granite slab anyway. But what you're looking for might weigh less.
MrQ5: Hello, living in a one-story house from Älvsbyhus with a cold attic. Since we have limited space in the house, we are considering using the attic for storing some non-delicate items. There is a lot of insulation in the ceiling and about 50cm between the ceiling and the roof truss. I have been considering how to install an attic hatch since there is nothing obvious to attach it to. Therefore, I
bossespecial: I like this one, it works well in concrete and heavily loaded Elfa systems. https://www.byggmax.se/universalplugg-fischer-duopower-6x30mm-p246719
Tompafix: Check out this video and you will understand how to do it. You shouldn't twist or lift the door. Start by checking that all screws in the hinges are tight and that the frame is level/plumb. [MEDIA=youtube]U-C-esU-WsI[/MEDIA]
luebeck: It motivates me and gives me hope. I will try Snicker Jocke again. But first, I will familiarize myself with the subject of virkeskvalitet. And then hopefully present a new photo next year.
Tompafix: [citat] If it's a regular box spring, it would be enough to just adjust the length of the legs. It's minimal and is the easiest to carry out. Alternatively, screw in frame pieces as legs and then cover it with, for example, plywood. If you want to correct the surface of the floor instead, the easiest way is to build a framework of studs, which you then lift to be level and screw the studs down
cykelbud: The idea is that I should get a 'broken' surface and not sawed. For appearance's sake, that is.