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Stubai: [citat] I don't know what it's called. A double phase with bottom and cover I've never seen. Maybe something planed at home. If you find a z-panel with reasonably correct dimensions, you should be able to use it and adjust the last board in the trimming saw.
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useless
useless: [citat] If the defect can be seen in a few pictures in the forum, then it reasonably can't be hidden, can it? Why does every home buyer today believe that defects they didn't personally see are hidden?
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dof
dof: What does the manufacturer of the panel say? I replaced it myself in 2014 and used regular decking screws, as recommended by those who had cut the panel.
12 replies · 2,2k views
FredrikR
FredrikR: [citat] Maybe it would have fit better under Social & Projects. 👍 Some pictures and more information would be fun. Old post I see now, but still interesting to see.
1 reply · 899 views
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K Lindh: [citat] Ok, then I know it works, I'll think about it..
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jonaserik: Could work with that as well, but it's best to have one on each side. If it was only 40 cm wide, it would work. 120 cm, so one on each side. This and with mortar between the walls ensure there won't be moisture between them and freeze apart. Preferably a form of cap on the top is good.
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AXS
AXS: The houses I've been involved in building have had slightly different solutions. There's always a deduction for the floor above the chipboard (3-25mm) and about half with a deduction for the ceiling. I don't want to install huntonit before raising walls, but drywall that's going to be painted is more forgiving. But standard, well. I think there are endless variations.
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guggen: I suspect you're talking about linus wall paint from Allbäck? It's a matte chalk and linseed-based paint that gives very good results on plastered surfaces. I've used it myself in similar circumstances where I plastered with c-bruk. I just brushed down the loose parts and painted over, turned out very well.
1 reply · 2,4k views
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Jonatan79
Jonatan79: Planed/sanded before
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Jonatan79
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El-Löken66: [citat] Is the screw completely through the plug? You might have chosen the wrong diameter? Then there's the question of the size of the hammer and how much force is required. But I would have chosen something stronger there.
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Lilhenk
Lilhenk: [citat] Okay, that sounds great. The house is about 10 meters from the living room exterior wall to the kitchen exterior wall. Picture from the outside if that makes it clearer.
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El-Löken66: [citat] Wood a living material.
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Rått: [citat] Yes. It is doomed. The idea is to chisel away one side so the stairs have one side, and put the railing directly into the step instead of into the wall as it is now. Thanks for the reply.
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Roger Hermansson: The problem is WATER that the brick absorbs; having brick all the way down to the ground is creating problems for the future. If you perhaps don't have gutters or have bad downspouts, etc., it exacerbates the problem. Repairing brick is a band-aid, it will continue to undergo frost damage, a frost-damaged brick is a lost cause. The best solution would be to replace the lowest courses section by
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pederwa: [citat] It becomes a metal strip on the edges.
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stugfar: Yes, in my world it is also a very low risk. I can't imagine the walls moving that much. The mouse tape producers themselves say it works with profiled sheet metal. https://habo.com/storage/723830434E54CC2F7B7F8A76B21A0168B7D47E4E4048913A5A631A4BF0DAF6E3/ca29195a6fd44820b48c981e625053f9/pdf/media/6445b65176ef4ddc896cf382132e4a58/Monteringsanvisning%20av%20Museband.pdf Perhaps someone who has had
8 replies · 2,7k views
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mojjen: [citat] The thing with strips is that you want (at least I do) to first fill the gaps with plaster or compound so the recess becomes smooth. Sometimes I've had to apply compound 2 times for it to get reasonably smooth. It's probably overkill, but one filling, otherwise the strip gets pressed into the seam. So it corresponds to your compound round with the strip. Then gluing, which I usually let
8 replies · 4,5k views
BirgitS
BirgitS: Even though there is a wall under the ridge of the finished attic, it is usually not load-bearing.
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ccx: [citat] Thanks for this answer. That's about how I've understood it too. Obviously, I do what I can. Tape windows from the inside, etc.
6 replies · 2,0k views
Lena Elisabet
Lena Elisabet: [citat] Yes
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Roger Hermansson: [citat] B mortar is unlikely to last in the long term at the very bottom near the ground, especially if it is exposed to dripping water from the top edge of the wall. I would recommend using a cement mortar a between 30 and 50cm from the ground.
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tracker: Depending on whether you want to restore without too much impact, I would probably tape (double-sided) a 70mm steel track with maybe some screws in the floor at the doorway, and a steel track on the ceiling that is screwed in. Then, place 45x70 timber studs in the steel profiles, and the stud by the wall should be screwed into the wall. It is good if the length of the studs is precise so they are
1 reply · 1,6k views
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Thunhukenz: Ok..thank you so much for the response.
3 replies · 826 views
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emmaemma: [citat] Anticimex was on site and discovered elevated moisture levels of 19% in the wood and some white mold under the boards in a newer section from 1990. In the old section from 1940 (summer cottage), it couldn't be measured, but when we opened it up, it smelled really bad, and there was quite a bit of organic material.
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A
AG A: Likely much more than you can load it with. BUT, the strength entirely depends on the buckling length. Or, as mentioned, the length of the column.
2 replies · 894 views
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pfb: Became angle iron [bild] [bild]
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Rickard.
Rickard.: *Many believe that double plasterboard on the walls is the only way to achieve wall fire rating. However, this is not true; there are many different ways to combine materials so that you can have a fire-rated garage and still easily hang things on the walls. It is the combination of outer panel and inner panel, as well as the thickness and type of insulation, that determines the fire rating. As
1 reply · 1,6k views
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ÉlPon: [citat] Do you have an example or a link to a table to look at? I need to know if my steel beam needs to be protected to meet R15 or if I can avoid it. Breakage limit 40%.
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klaskarlsson
klaskarlsson: [citat] In the installation layer, you place insulation and then just boards over it.
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Albireo: I can't answer that off the top of my head - but if I remember correctly it's a truss W or WW with arms that are far too weak. (don't remember either - 195x45 or maybe 225x56) but the span is long between the supports.
6 replies · 2,8k views
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