Building Materials and Construction Technology
Arne Stenger: [citat] Hi, the method we initially designed is a solution from Finja. It's correct that the wall above doesn't move because of the reinforcement. The layers in between are meant to ensure that water doesn't rise through capillary action. There are also other bitumen solutions for this.
Hedlund80: My first post here on Byggahus.se, so interesting to see if I can get help solving this mystery that has halted planned floor installation for more than a year now! Hello all experts on moisture migration! I have a problem with a couple of very wet/damp boards in a wall in an uninsulated old storage building with a previous dirt floor & uninsulated slab on the ground. They (standing boards) seem
Stuff: [citat] It is almost 3 years since TS was supposed to start leveling the roof. So we can assume that he is already done with it
Krilleohrnis: [citat] It's not concrete, it's mortar. You can use a C-mortar and plaster mortar. I think you mean to get the reveal level and not the trim; it's easier to place something in between than to work with mortar. Trim is installed after the reveal. In image 2, it looks like lightweight concrete blocks on the left, concrete hollow blocks on the right, and lecablock on top.
Johanbogg: Like sweat stains on a light fabric upholstery in cars
nova383: [citat] Yes - good. That's exactly what I thought, good that even craftsmen have done it that way.👍 The door and threshold are far away (relatively) from wet zone 1, but will be sealed against the floor and I will place the casing with a small gap down to the threshold strip.
Jonatan79: A vapor retarder is sufficient for walls and ceilings, in bathrooms it's good to have plastic/vapor barrier to prevent moisture from reaching the attic. If the attic is in good condition today, you should not change too much.
Kramla: There is stone adhesive in different colors, black, gray, and white. There may possibly be more colors, but none that I know of for sure. Flat surface to lay them on, apply adhesive, and clamp together with glue clamps. /Kramla
Niklaspe: How do you usually handle a recessed floor structure without support beams underneath when you want to bring the piers inside the construction? It's for a glazing that will be clad with baseboards against the ground. The piers will obviously be in the way at the corners. Of course, you can add two extra 45s around the frame, but that feels like overkill. Feel free to draw the solution on my nice
jonaserik: You can place a 6 mm järn between the 1st and 2nd shift + between the 3rd and 4th when you are masoning, and that should surely suffice.
Arne999: I'm a bit keen on building a "small" machine hall about 6x12m (). The idea is a pent roof and I want a folding or roller door that is 6m wide and 4m high. I've clicked around on various sites that sell and have their own design tools but this variant can't be found. A bit odd since it shouldn't be that unusual... Building permit is required hence why I wanted to draw in some ready-made planning
JohanLun: [citat] I would then claim a complaint. Did you buy from IKEA and assemble it yourself? Followed the instructions? Maybe you can get new material, a discount on the price, etc. If someone else assembled it, I would complain to them. Then they can take the cabinets down. I have massive wooden frames that are custom-built, nothing comes loose on those, but they would probably be a hell to take
mrsnhp: [citat] It's mainly things that are directly against the floor and outer walls that shouldn't be organic material. Doors rarely have direct contact with the floor, so it's okay to have them made of wood 🙂 Even wooden thresholds and door frames seem to work well. It's mainly wooden floors and wood paneling or chipboard on the wall that are risk constructions if they're not moisture-proofed and
williamspäron: [citat] Got a quote for around 200k for 14m of pipe. Then it feels worth it to chip and switch to plastic, at least the ones that are easy to replace :-) Suppose I replace a five-meter piece except for a 1.5m section in the middle, can it be relined if needed in the future, or does it become problematic since that section will likely be slightly smaller in diameter after the process?
utbygget: [citat] yes, thoughts have gone in the direction that it's humid. And hitting the plate when the plaster is screwed on is unlikely. But I believe if the plaster is 75, then the wood will be 75, and that's a bit high, but if I have plastic between the wood and plaster, the wood will last a little longer. The risk that moisture would get trapped inside the plastic is also a possibility, but I think
cpalm: [citat] Water flowing along the door can (should) be managed with a drip edge on the door leaf that directs the water away from the threshold.
BirgitS: 1. It is usually possible to build a light interior wall on a floating floor by not fastening the floor rail to the floor but letting it rest on top. The wall must then be well anchored upwards and to the sides.
Tjrex: As long as it is not exposed to moisture, it will probably be fine. The glue in regular construction plywood does not tolerate moisture, though. If it can be done with slip-resistant plywood, it is a better alternative. Harder to paint on, though.
z_bumbi: Do not make them at the same level but place the tiles a little higher and attach the transition strip to the tiled section. That way, the other floor can move without the strip moving.
PeterFalun: to TS, have you checked if there is ground radon in the area where you live?
optimum: [citat] Risk of rainwater. I thought that this isn't how electricians run cables; they must come from below to prevent rainwater from following the cables into the house. Roofers, they usually have a good grasp of keeping water out.
Hans G2: A picture of the problem helps. But my answer is outdoor use sealant. Or sealant behind and a suitably prepared cover strip over.
opettersson: [citat] 😂 But it's probably the wife who fixes and does the most in this household. I take care of the basic services :-)
Oldboy: My experience as a handyman carpenter on an old farm tells me that 6" nails are just right, but I also find that 5" nails hold quite well. When you then step down to the thinner 4" nails, they usually hold fairly well too, but not always. Therefore, if for some reason you use 4" to nail 2" studs, you usually use 2 nails and preferably drive them at a slight angle to each other to improve the
Snickarkirre: Hello! It's most likely just the steel stud in the wall that you've hit. So just keep on drilling 👍
frihol85: [citat] Thank you so much for the advice and tips 🙏🏻
Anonymiserad 358496: [citat] Just go ahead and glue it. Regarding flatness, you need a straightedge or equivalent.
Andreas-sa: Yes, it is a smålandsvillan and the house is almost 3 years old. I took a closer look with the ladder and see that it's a metal flashing that goes in with edges, so the hole is probably supposed to be there. Then I can probably fall back asleep. :)