Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mullinu: I recently saw a craftsman who wanted angle profiles behind the plasterboards to, unless I misunderstood it, reduce the risk of movements as there were wooden studs + chipboard behind. It sounds reasonable to me (not a craftsman myself). However, I'm a bit unsure if it was a good idea to nail up some of these angle profiles as the nail head protruded noticeably. My (very limited) experience of
swee: Sorry it's taking me so long to reply, but I'm researching air flow measurement. It doesn't seem entirely easy. Found this one that I thought was interesting: https://www.byggahus.se/forum/threads/luftfloedesmaetare-anemometer-foer-vettigt-pris.480945/#post-5285061 There's also one you can buy that seems professional at least:
Grannjävel: Hi, I'm a rookie with construction but I'm looking for tips on material choices for installation according to the red line. There used to be a wall there that someone previously removed, and now there are small cracks visible in the ceiling panels, but nothing worse than that. The plan is to drive some screws up into the ceiling in the roof truss/joist that runs just above. For the screw heads to
doubleH: I have an old playhouse that is now used as a storage shed. However, I need to replace some cladding boards and it turns out to be difficult to find stock paneling in the Gothenburg area. The product has been discontinued at most building supply stores and if they have stock paneling, it's the wrong type with a "double tongue-and-groove." I need the model with a single overlapping tongue as shown
Alexander HB: [bild] It is also possible to dig a trench and connect the posts with one or more crossbars underground, and then backfill. This can help prevent the posts from bending inward. It might also be worth considering having several shorter braces so that they are at a 45-degree angle. The effect of braces diminishes the larger the lower angle in the triangle becomes.
Testarn: There are skirting boards that can withstand being outdoors, but they might break the budget... They are often made of fiber cement, so a "regular" fiber cement board that is painted with suitable paint (silicate paint?) should work well.
Almost0.5acres: [citat] Yes, got it. Then I'll move the insect net to the 45x45 studs. Thanks for the tip🙏👍🙂
Stefan1972: I don't think it looks like anything asbestos-related. More like some newer type of fiber cement board. It's not even certain that they were installed in 1965 just because the house was built then.
jonaserik: Then it is a rigid sheet, and it may be glued there and have a finishing strip at the top. What you need to do is get as even a surface as possible all the way, if there is any dip, it doesn't matter. With a straight board that is placed against the wall, it is clear how flat/uneven it is, it should also be even on the plumb line all the way. With a rigid sheet, it could end up not lying against
Lutte: I would be content to let the ends stand and soak up primer for a day and then be properly painted. When repainting, I would just leave it, if you can't see the end, no new paint is needed there.
jliljeha: Old thread but for any future readers, it's possible to take it down even if it's spackled and painted. You need to find the screws using a magnet and work carefully. It can still go wrong, but I've done it several times. I tore down all the interior walls on one floor of a cooperative apartment, late evenings and nights, in this way to avoid disturbing the neighbors, and 90% of the boards came
Romuhousu: Yes, I guess we'll have to replace it. I had been living a bit in denial, hoping to just cover that damn thing with something simple, hah. Suppose we remove the metal sheet ourselves and replace it with a wooden roof and roofing felt; how would one best seal between the facade and the roof? Fold the roofing felt up against the wall, metal sheet over it, screw it in place and seal with caulk? In
kashieda: Are you going to save/reuse any of the materials? Are you going to send it for recycling or transport it yourself? I would probably remove the roof tiles first, carefully or not, then the interior gypsum. You would not want to mix these with the rest anyway. Insulation? Take it down and put it in bags, don't forget a mask and gloves. Now there should mostly be wood and metal left, approximately.
JSandell: Hi, thanks. I've seen all the episodes but will update myself on just that episode.
Emce1: Hey! Ever since we enclosed the balcony, as expected we've had a lot of heat on the balcony, it hasn't even become summer yet and we're hitting around 35-40 degrees. I suspect the partycooler won't enjoy that heat and definitely won't when summer really arrives... Now to my question, I was thinking of building in the partycooler to prevent the sun from hitting and heating the outer shell of the
The Tor: I set up supports on both the inside and outside, but it probably wasn't necessary. When I pulled out all the nails holding the beam in place, it fell out on its own. There was no load on it at all. I cut a new, wider, laminated wood beam and installed the new door.
Amazonic: I will build a simple patio roof with a plastic roof. I will use 45x45 as battens; should they extend beyond the roof rafters? If so, how much? Support beam against the facade 45x220 Support beam on the posts double 45x220 Posts 90x90 glued wood with 2x 22x95 outside. Roof rafters 45x220 [bild]
jonaserik: [citat] And then the part that remains is tight, good it can't move. Good luck with the rest of the construction.
matthiask: From our balcony, we have a concrete staircase leading up to a rocky outcrop towards a path that is exposed and washed rock. The staircase has seen better days and is uncomfortable to walk on barefoot. I would like to spruce it up. The vision would be smooth concrete steps in a color that blends in with the stone and rock nearby. Are there any tips on how to proceed, what materials are suitable?
Plåt-Oskar: [citat] https://sv.m.wiktionary.org/wiki/måla_fan_på_väggen
docboy: Have a concrete bridge from -64 where the surface has started to come off the side of the bridge. Does anyone know what the surface is called and if it's available today so I can fix it? [bild]
plåtrickard: [citat] Exactly... furthermore, every other counter batten should lie on the roof trusses...
Nissens: [citat] If it doesn't matter if it leaks and causes drafts, then no, it doesn't matter.
pentmo: Have a rotting post for the sunroom, it supports boards that hold windows. Can one saw off a part of it and replace, anchor to the plinth, or perhaps a new plinth? Or what is the best temporary solution for this according to you? Thank you humbly for all the help :-)
OmpaOmpaa: Hi! I'm also curious about how you solved it. I'm considering a similar solution with tiles on a wooden frame in an outdoor kitchen. Is it best to have a frame around or should you glue them? Did you use any grout in between?
varpan1: [citat] Motorcycles, service and repair work, mancave, storage.
