Building Materials and Construction Technology
pathe915: [citat] How did you size the dry well? How big does one need for 50 liters a day on old farmland?
Skaerby: Have the exact same questions as above. Almost the same porch roof. Also won't hit a beam. How did you do it?
The Dankster: [citat] [/QUOTE] The 16mm hose that HORNBACH sells by the meter is a floor heating hose PN6. In shorter lengths, there is 15mm bare hose in 5 and 10 meters or 15 meters pipe within a pipe.
blork: Darn, yes the old ones seem to be 2mm in diameter. But I haven't managed to find it anywhere. Only 40X4.0 that seems to be manufactured. How hard can it be.🤣 I'll use regular nails instead, that'll probably do. https://www.k-rauta.se/produkt/spik-essve-17x40-fzv-rafflad-1000st/7317761040446 The board should also be nailed into the bärläkt or whatever it's called with 75mm nails, so it should
Kirre2021: [citat] Do you have channel plastic today? If yes, then you shouldn't have insulation directly against the plastic.
Qjanto: [citat] Which brand(s) of screws and are they screwed with automatic?
neo11: [citat] Without pictures, you won't get good answers, so it's up to you.
para: If you make the shelf out of a skiva, it will stiffen it up.
BirgitS: [citat] You should upload a floor plan so it will be easier to understand. Preferably also construction drawings like a sectional drawing. What do you refer to as beams?
calvin82: I am going to install a cast iron stove that needs to be 100mm away from the non-combustible wall behind. I want to try to get the stove as close to the wall as possible. Is a 10mm calcium silicate board on the underlying OSB (i.e., no air gap) sufficient for it to be classified as a non-combustible wall?
Anonymiserad 618974: Who gave you a suggestion? If you want to do this properly, you need an engineer. No one will sit down and design this for free. Or you go all in and skip the engineer, so you feel no doubt at all.
topmount: Covering a damp wall with boards I spontaneously think might accelerate decay through increased frost heaving. Clearing the top of vegetation and plastering, I believe in.
Jocke Best: Then it's unfortunately doomed. It doesn't thicken. Therefore, add a little water at the beginning.
Tiggrawastaken: I have removed a window about 1200 wide and am going to install a patio door at 1400! When I started demolishing the wall, I expected to find cladding, insulation, studs, then boards as "usual" (not all layers but you get the idea). Instead, I'm faced with 3 different facades (I assume they just nailed new on top of the old). And the last layer/layer closest to the inside is solid horizontal
Kane: [citat] And to the right at the blue arrowhead.
Funkis-Matte: Hello! Can you nail and screw (without plugs) directly into Husfix? Is it concrete nails and some special type of screws that are required in that case? Thanks in advance.
Kane: [citat] Often, but it's always nice to be able to use the studs and use regular screws.
cleverton: Seems like there's a mix here, in some places sanded towards concrete, in others the "plastic" side. Do you think it's a problem? It can probably still be fixed but will probably take a few hours of work...
Jethro625: [citat] Thanks for the answer! A radon test was done many years ago by the previous owner. It showed 210 bq/m3, so indeed above the reference value but nothing I felt was urgently necessary to address. However, it might not be a bad idea to do a new long-term measurement just to be safe.
MVJK: [citat] How did you do in the end? I'm in the same situation where I probably should install a brick lintel or similar to fit windows into a wall.
addee: I now see that I need to upgrade the beams to 42x180 as it seems. Too bad, since I only have 150mm (minus 28mm) if I'm going to place them on the existing cast slab for the balcony.
Andreas-012: Yep, that's how it is. I'm not worried about the construction itself. I just want to ensure the window doesn't risk stress, meaning that it won't crack. Hence the extra beam with glulam on that wall. Go with that. Glue and screw together with the existing beam.
z_bumbi: There was someone here a while ago who made a nice desk hung in an elfa-system. Being able to have shelves on the wall is usually appreciated after a while, which speaks for such a solution.
Rickard.: The nail battens must go across the facade panel, so with vertical cladding, the nail battens are horizontal, and with horizontal cladding, the nail battens are vertical. In the past, it was quite common not to have vertical nail battens and instead nail directly into the wall studs with horizontal cladding, but it is probably less common today as people prefer to build with an air gap. Yes, of
nino: If the entire step block is detached from the rest, perhaps the easiest is to cast a new one.
Emonil: [citat] Then when you say wash it, is it the same procedure? About 12 hours after?
jonaserik: Could this be something https://www.amazon.se/Aluminium-H-profil-anodiserad-aluminiumprofil-innerm%C3%A5tt/dp/B07BZ68RST/ref=asc_df_B07BZDJS9V/?tag=shpngadsglede-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=
dalmas90: Hello, anyone knowledgeable about how to handle a vapor barrier/vapor brake when the inner part meets a garage prepared with insulation but will be cold for an indefinite period. Should the vapor barrier overlap to the vapor brake on the exterior walls where the garage meets the interior? Should I skip plastic on the walls marked in red if there will later be plastic or a vapor brake in the
Tomtom79: [citat] Longer screws often don't have very long threads, instead having a longer unthreaded portion. https://www.heco.se/sortiment/trainfastningar/traskruv-protect-4/hardad-traskruv-tft-protect-4.html For example, a 160mm long one has 88mm unthreaded, if you drive it in a bit more, it's more than 90.
ml novis: In my newly purchased house, there is a built-in but disconnected expansion tank. The tank is located in a room upstairs, and I want to remove it. When I tore down the "walls" that were built around it, there is some kind of insulation and sawdust. However, they have not laid any floor, and the tank is propped up with wooden blocks. Does anyone have tips on how I can create a floor that can be