Building Materials and Construction Technology
sepani: I'm wondering how to build the supports for this construction? Order from a blacksmith? Or are they available for purchase? [bild]
Baskavoda: Yes exactly, it might be smart to use two layers of minerit or similar instead of plyfa+gips
Rickard.: If it's an isolated heated garage, it's quite difficult not to achieve EI30. I don't know exactly what you need to show, but a traditional exterior wall solution is sufficient. This quote is admittedly not from the world's most reliable source, but I find the information easy to understand compared to much else. *As an example, we construct our insulated garages with: 12 mm chipboard, at least 95
Grannens Häck: [citat] I can't answer what is correct, but personally, I would have sanded or washed it off outdoors wearing an appropriate mask and then used it as planned. The mold growth stops as soon as you remove the conditions for it.
z_bumbi: The screw should be able to hold it together even without glue or clamps, so you can do one section at a time and then move the clamps. I would rather borrow clamps or make a maximum of two sections per day so the glue joint has time to set, but it's doable. If you are not gluing, eat it as you do anyway, i.e., no difference.
jonaserik: Nothing to worry about, asvabord has a whale-like ingredient in it and can withstand some moisture, of course it shouldn't be left open to the elements for years. The panel will likely be attached to a strip/nailing board and then it will ventilate.
Farstatjej90: I don't believe it. It's quite a significant load. Drill through wall and stud, put a plank on the other side and fasten everything together with screws, washer, and nut. Then it will hold, I think.
Kubikton: [citat] Interesting! Sounds like there are possible solutions without cutting up the floor, and if a beam can solve this, I'm satisfied. I will consult my plans with a structural engineer before I start but am looking for some ideas to consider.
cpalm: [citat] It might take more than one might spontaneously think for a trench like that. Depending on how thick you cast it, of course. I probably used up a pallet during my pipe replacement in the basement just for the trenches in the floor.
Maalox: I purchased 40-50kg of the winter variant of HME in batches and everything worked great. For me, the items were shipped the day after ordering at the latest.
Byggabullen: [citat] Thanks for the response! That's probably what we should do just to be on the safe side :)
fribygg: What skills and experiences do you have? Can you handle a spade, axe, hammer, and saw? If you are prepared to invest most of your waking hours and some financial resources over a couple of years, I wouldn't advise against buying; if you are going to outsource the work, it can become expensive as it is likely to take many hours.
jonaserik: [citat] Yep, and to get a rigid support on the floor structure, the wedges are tapped in so they just grip, not so that the floor structure lifts.
Wasssp: I must thank you for all your comments; now I have installed the window with a reinforcement above. However, it started snowing now, so the construction is on hold for a while. It's a bit chilly without insulation; do you have any tips, like foam sealant or that kind of window insulation that you can buy? Here is a picture from last night, now there's a tarp over it. A few noggings and an
OmpaOmpaa: Thank you! Yes, then it would have felt worse, but the room is quite small, so it's only 1.5 boards per wall. And where the boards meet in the corners, the spacing turned out well, so it should be completely fine. Previously, I accidentally put an entire wall with OSB flush and didn't notice at all, but this time I got a bit more paranoid considering that a waterproofing layer and tiles are going
Farstatjej90: I don't know if it'll crack, but if it doesn't, it will definitely retain heat well. But is the surface smooth enough for pizza on a brunnslock? 🤔
Joakim654: Hello! Under our concrete entrance staircase, there is a space intended as a food//potato cellar. When I was sanding off old paint and deposits today, I noticed that the plaster was loose in one corner and came off very easily. Behind the plaster, there are lightweight concrete blocks, and there was about 5 mm of air between the blocks and the plaster. Some of the lightweight concrete blocks are
Dilato: [citat] Yes, that's how it is (all areas heated to at least 10 degrees are included). Atemp broadly describes the area of the floors that are heated and located within the building's climate shell. There is no limitation of this area concerning the ceiling height in the space. Atemp = The sum of the internal area of each floor, attic, and basement that is heated to more than 10 °C. Areas
Oldboy: Yes, it's a bit more humid here in the south... [bild] This is outdoors. (Hope the image is clickable so that you can make out the details...) Ok, no chimney. Electric heating from the beginning. I assume you don't know when mold started appearing in the attic? It may have started as early as -69, but more likely it came after previous additional insulation. That it's worse towards the gables and
sarsag: [citat] Or is it better to go with a z-door and apply the plastic on the outside (to achieve a uniform material) but not go all the way out? That way, you can open it completely without the plastic hitting the frame. So, instead of the light blue decorative strip on the car door, I have plastic.
Törner: [citat] Smart! Thanks, Leif, I'll check it out 🙂👍 [/QUOTE]
boohoo: Have not noticed that hunton would have shrunk here at home.
anders07: [citat] Any rotary hammer with an SDS chuck is likely to be better than the one you have. Depends a bit on how much you want to spend and if you will benefit from it later. You should expect to pay around 1000kr and up for a decent machine. I would go for at least 600W. Biltema and Jula have quite good rotary hammers, but AEG, Metabo, Makita are slightly better and might be worth investing in.
Norrtull: According to my small examples, both the spade and garden furniture have hardened. It was perhaps down to -6 degrees outside during the day.
z_bumbi: I have built using pressure-treated timber. I'm not worried about bumping into it or hitting an occasional post, etc. It also doubles as scaffolding and standing on 45x220 feels sturdier than regular decking wood. Especially since they rest on 45x90 beams and the span is table length. I have left too little space between the beams, so an ordinary clamp won't fit, which would sometimes be useful,
Jorak: Or put a list around it like a frame. Type of list can be chosen based on the width of the gap.