Building Materials and Construction Technology
Jan_G: [citat] See answers 1 and 2. You got this, go for it 😎
Charlotte vdL: [citat] Hi! I found this link, I have the same problem. A unipuu bunk bed, but not enough screws. Did the ones you bought fit? Do you have any left and want to sell?
NoiseMaker: You could say that my problem is not solved. I did a half-measure and just sanded down a little bit. Most of the edge steel is still there, I just cut a few cm at the top. I don't really remember how I did it, but I didn't buy exactly the product that was recommended here. However, I need to do something about it this summer because more of the concrete has come loose. I will probably try the
torparavgrund: Vapor brake of diffusion-open material, NOT diffusion-tight plastic.
Workingclasshero: Build a large staircase with a substantial landing outside the door, as in the picture. If you can, integrate a grate into the landing so it's possible to scrape off shoes. The staircase can be constructed loosely in the garage or under a roof and then placed on site. The roof, which is not shown in the picture, can probably be supported with braces to avoid having the post in the way. Good luck.
Nybyggarn: The simplest option is probably finger-jointed beams that are available in fairly long lengths. Another alternative is so-called high-profile sheets instead of wooden beams, which allow for building with quite a large span. But it depends a bit on the type of building to determine if it is suitable.
BruketsCustom: I'm in the initial stages of draining the house built in 1943. I've done several drainages before, so I have a decent understanding of traditional drainage/insulation. I've started looking into spray insulation with polyurethane, it seems convenient. So what do you think, pros/cons?
Jens5: [citat] Okay, I'll investigate further with dimensions to be sure if it's the threshold beam. It might be clear in the picture, but there should be a piece of panel in the cavity by the green.
Jimgus123: [citat] How much insulation did it take? Superwool?
AndersS: [citat] Switch to Hammerit and it doesn't have to be Hammarlacken. But if it's on cars, it might be different, nothing seems to work really well there.
hensvik88: Looking for a floor molding with this profile
Ht33781: Heavily discussed, I know, but it doesn't help because I haven't found any answers on how to do it 😅 I could use some help understanding how to construct a beam support. I have a small addition planned, about 3x3m, where there will be a broken insulated sheet metal roof with about a 20-degree slope and rafters along each wall. In the addition, there will be a double door about 160cm wide, as
adbjn: [citat] Pressure-treated wood weighs about 830kg/m3. Source: https://www.svenskttra.se/bygg-med-tra/byggande/hantering-och-lagring/
Manstralen: Hi! We live in an old house and want to restore the staircase with mirror panels. 1) How is it easiest to do this when the stringer is wavy? I guess the planed boards don't have any give at all... 2) The handrail is also wavy, and there is a height difference of 60mm. Do you have any tips on how to align the top so that the handrail is in line with the crossboard above, or should we just let it
nattugglan11: I live at the top of a house, apartment. A 1950s building where we had fabric stretched as a ceiling. Then it needed fireproofing, and the fabric was removed, and double gypsum was put up. I remember that there were boards behind the fabric, and behind the boards, there was a type of thicker plywood. This was many years ago, but I can't recall there being electrical conduits in the ceiling,
Kardan79: [citat] I've never done that (though I've only tiled on concrete twice, and that was over a countertop). Maybe someone else can share their experience.
makhno_: Where is the house located? In Stockholm, they do not accept dormers longer than 1.4m.
asa-nesse: Can someone tell me what this item is that I found in a kitchen cabinet? It must have been there for a long time. Why didn't I throw it away immediately? Hard plastic, about 5 cm wide.
Rotekopp: [citat] Yes, there is a theoretical c/c measurement, but it's hardly something you can count on. There may be overlaps between reinforcement mats and repositioned iron due to form ties, electrical sockets, drainpipes, inserts, or if it's just so-called safety reinforcement, a 12mm every 40-100 cm. Stud finders usually have a setting for metal detection otherwise.
Arne999: Yep, thought the thought must be better than nothing at least
PJSL: How is the best way to cast, fill a pier form with concrete when it is under the house? I need to cast 2 piers that are about 120 cm high, 20 cm in diameter, so it will be quite a lot to fill in the tube and very cramped. It will also be very difficult to stir? Grateful for tips? Kind regards, Per
Banansvenne: [citat] Only Elfa. Their brackets which are about 50 cm.
Ellenjustine: Hello, we have moisture issues in the kitchen, where we have a crawl space. The plan is to tear up, clean out, and then possibly lay foam glass, geotextile, and then cast. How thick does the foam glass need to be, I have read anywhere from 0.3-0.6. We don't plan to add any additional insulation. The other option is to lay gravel, EPS, and then cast. Tips and advice - gladly received. Thank you in
sepani: I'm wondering how to build the supports for this construction? Order from a blacksmith? Or are they available for purchase? [bild]
Baskavoda: Yes exactly, it might be smart to use two layers of minerit or similar instead of plyfa+gips
Rickard.: If it's an isolated heated garage, it's quite difficult not to achieve EI30. I don't know exactly what you need to show, but a traditional exterior wall solution is sufficient. This quote is admittedly not from the world's most reliable source, but I find the information easy to understand compared to much else. *As an example, we construct our insulated garages with: 12 mm chipboard, at least 95