Building Materials and Construction Technology
dalmas90: Hello, anyone knowledgeable about how to handle a vapor barrier/vapor brake when the inner part meets a garage prepared with insulation but will be cold for an indefinite period. Should the vapor barrier overlap to the vapor brake on the exterior walls where the garage meets the interior? Should I skip plastic on the walls marked in red if there will later be plastic or a vapor brake in the
Tomtom79: [citat] Longer screws often don't have very long threads, instead having a longer unthreaded portion. https://www.heco.se/sortiment/trainfastningar/traskruv-protect-4/hardad-traskruv-tft-protect-4.html For example, a 160mm long one has 88mm unthreaded, if you drive it in a bit more, it's more than 90.
ml novis: In my newly purchased house, there is a built-in but disconnected expansion tank. The tank is located in a room upstairs, and I want to remove it. When I tore down the "walls" that were built around it, there is some kind of insulation and sawdust. However, they have not laid any floor, and the tank is propped up with wooden blocks. Does anyone have tips on how I can create a floor that can be
Chk: Wow! Nice Tore! Thank you so much. That looked really good. I'll get back with some pictures when/if I start building the project but I got even more excited when I saw this :-)
NElektrikern: Hello everyone! Is there anyone on this forum who has torn down an entire exterior wall around a whole house? Built of brick? The house has settled significantly, and the entire lower floor needs renovation! However, I'm more comfortable with wood in general and thought of replacing the brick with a wooden frame. And also lifting the house at the same time! The house was built in 1926 and has
Peter Tiedje: Hello, I am renovating an old barn where we are currently working on fixing the gable. We have temporarily fixed new supports for one of the gables. As part of this, we want the new entrance in the middle. Unfortunately, the beam ("T" in the image) that supports the upper floor is located about 60cm from the ridge line. Therefore, I would like to install either a glulam or steel beam between the
Lena Lövqvist: Hi! How should I install horizontal paneling on my balcony? Can I attach wooden battens with construction adhesive to the metal studs to avoid drilling into the metal studs? If not, what drill bit and screws should I use for the metal?
pjop: Hello, We need to replace the gangway to our floating dock. The distance (on the plane, with a height difference between low and high tide of about 1.2m) is about 6m, so I assume it needs to be about 6.5-7.0m(?) and perhaps 1.2m wide. I'm thinking it's better to build a frame of HEA beams rather than wood. Is that the right idea? If so, what dimension should we use and is it enough with a beam on
ClasseClas: Either paint over or rather pre-drill and countersink for the screws. Make sure to prime and paint in the holes before assembly. Usually (I think) you want to be able to disassemble and renovate outdoor furniture, and then painted-over screws are not fun.
helgestahill: [citat] Put sand or soil over the plastic to reduce the risk of light through the plastic. Let it sit for at least 2 years if you have kirskål.
Cheesen: [citat] As z_bumbi wrote. flimsy nails that hold the fence together. (bought some sections for a deck railing many years ago. The wood lasts many years longer than the "nails") If you don't get much snow, maybe a plastic fence could be an option? They work excellently in Australia in any case (They buy more plastic fences than other enclosures)
Needas: There are exceptional assembly adhesives nowadays that are perfect for the purpose. Elastic assembly adhesive of any kind allows the construction to move slightly. I can recommend Bostik maxibond or my own personal favorite Tec7.
JohanLun: Both probably work, I have been careless with the list without being bothered by the result. I would miter two small pieces, get everything to fit and staple them in place, measure between them and copy the result to the long list.
jonaserik: First of all, talk to the board about your intended project. They are the ones who decide if you can do it.
neo11: Add some pictures, and maybe you'll get advice.
Heggemony: I am going to hang a string shelf (without legs) on single gypsum board. For the holes where there is no metal stud behind, I will use molly bolts instead of the included Fischer plastic plug. If the hole hits a metal stud, how do I attach/reinforce there? I understand that metal studs are not as strong as wooden studs where you just need a screw without a plug. Is it even worth trying or should
K. L: [citat] It's a matter of taste but you don't need to caulk the holes/gaps between the panels, it can be enough to caulk in the spaces between the ceiling molding and the ceiling boards.
neo11: Weber rep 995 can be an option. But of course, it must be pressure washed first.
lalander: Seeking tips on fastening and joining handrails I have 70x70 posts 1m cc where I plan to have a 28x95 as a handrail. I have horizontal strips 28x45 where I thought the top strip would rest against the handrail. Looking for suggestions on: 1. Proposals for fastening to posts 2. Suggestions for attractive strong joins Question: Do you think there is a risk that the handrail will sag downward in the
Johan.da: Hello The supporting wood in the garage outside is completely destroyed and needs to be replaced, but the entire wall is almost resting on it, what would you have done?
proffsrik: probably depends on size and quantity, but I find it easiest with a regular handsaw.
pojak: What can cause plaster that has cured for five days to become weak and crumble between the fingers? (Some areas have weaker plaster, other areas seem to have plaster that has cured normally.) I used Finja plaster C and applied it to Lecablock, which had been pre-watered, outdoors. Had watered the plaster occasionally afterwards. After one day, rain came, and I had protected the plaster from the
David Gunnarsson 82: [citat] If you have the ability to use thicker insulation than 2.5 cm, it is probably better, but even 2.5 cm makes a difference.
Keld: If you don't want to drill through, it won't work with islagsmutter, they will come loose. Better with rampamuff.
Victor Akerlund: [citat] Hi, unfortunately, I can't contribute an answer, but I have essentially the same question. Up to a 4m high wall that seems to be constructed in a similar way to yours, where old mortar has deteriorated and smaller stones have started to come loose. In my case, there is a level difference so behind the wall at the top is my garden. Below the wall runs a road. I'm a bit afraid that the
octomore: I am considering whether it would be sensible to install ceiling moldings with mounting adhesive instead of nails/screws for a neater result and possibly easier handling. But how should one proceed? I saw that there are products like Pattex "No More Nails," but if you use that, do you usually glue both to the wall and ceiling, or just the ceiling? I'm thinking that if you glue it to the wall