Building Materials and Construction Technology
MKAR: A small update for those who are interested. It was an HEA240 that was lifted into place with a material lift. [bild] [bild] [bild] [bild]
FellanD: [citat] It is a kortling, absolutely. Unclear on my part; I mean if you should screw the edge beam against the gable's standing studs that have CC 60?
Jonatan79: [citat] Ok. Then maybe you should cast the studs so the water doesn't reach them. Is there a lot of water? Do you have a floor drain in the garage?
Rickard.lj: Use plastic wrap or apply foam strip against, do not cast in wood
Småbrukaren: Glue. Alternatively, drill with a type 2mm drill before nailing.
el_palpo: There is screw-fast gypsum if that is the property sought in addition to a good base for wallpaper.
Hep: Why is horizontal best? That is, assuming the vertical ones stand so vertically that they don't bend.
Oldboy: [citat] Stone wool and glass wool are mineral wool. The rodents love them both, for nesting, turning them into Swiss cheese, and completely pulverizing them over time. It works like a soft and fluffy down jacket, so it doesn't have a huge significance whether the spaces are heated or not.
z_bumbi: A wooden dowel of the right diameter that is glued in place is probably the easiest; it works with dowel rods or ready-made plugs of the right length (measure and cut). If it were a deeper hole, it might be warranted to spread a little ordinary wood glue in the new hole just before the screw goes in. Just leave the plaster as it is.
Jockiebear: Hi gang, Another question: Now that we’re about to pour a new cement foundation, there are XPS blocks and a vapor barrier underneath. Then we’ll install underfloor heating pipes, 4 cm. I'm wondering if we should put some foil on the cement so that the heat is reflected upwards instead of downwards into the cold slab.
Callmenobody: Well, another one asking about a plastered basement wall. In our house from 1916 with equally old drainage, I had a hobby room for the simple reason that some previous owner had put up a plywood wall there. I removed the plywood to gain a little extra floor space; the plan is to set up a TV and some video games so the kids can have a sort of club room. There is a dehumidifier in the basement, so
tegelsnickarn: [citat] [citat] Hi! Slow response. Now I'm back home again. After some thought, the craftsman removed the rebar without relief. Then he installed some other variant a row of stones up. Hope that helped! Good luck!
Robbobert: This is what the board looks like... in one of the pictures you can see how porous it is inside. It's a sort of pressed material with a smooth surface (12-13mm). I've mounted a string shelf and small items using regular wood screws, and it holds well and feels stable. I think as long as the board is intact (which it is where the TV will be mounted), a couple of Molly bolts should do the trick and
Poperormomerortot: [citat] Hi, we are facing the same choice. How did it turn out? Tips and pictures are welcome!
Ingrid E: Thank you for the response. It sounds really nice!
TRJBerg: [citat] Saw it now. Got an error when I tried to post it so I thought it didn't work.
star_daddy: [citat] It looks excellent, thank you very much for the help!
Jan-Arthur Josefsson1: Has anyone experienced the rounded glass in a SnickarPer front door 506G suddenly come loose from the door and crash down on the outside, causing glass pieces to fly around the entrance? It happened to us yesterday when our semi-detached house door built in 2014 broke? Shocking since our child/children five years old had just come in, imagine if she had gotten the heavy glass package on her.
Tornhuset: [citat] Feels like this applies more if you are going to build something like a bathroom. Construction plywood, as far as I know, does not come in 4mm; it is too thin to screw with chipboard screws, and as a surface layer, you don't want knot holes and cracks.
klaskarlsson: 150 cm is maybe a bit borderline, as it is two compartments, plus a little more, that need to be supported. Perhaps double 45x120 can handle it, but more might be required, it also depends a bit on the snow zone. Then there is the question of what "handle" means: Often you go with more than what would practically suffice (with a little extra deflection in certain situations perhaps), to ensure it
klaskarlsson: Looks like one of those heavy concrete blocks used to hold up road markings or construction fences, etc. The slots on the sides might be to allow metal bands to go up and hold fences/signs, etc? [bild]
LisaKarf: Hello! I'm planning to build a similar staircase, steep and exactly 60 cm wide, also for a loft. Finally, I find a reference that I like and can base mine on, I've searched a lot. How did this build go? Are there any pictures? //Lisa
T A: Hello! I am going to put up a fence and plan to attach the boards with a nail gun. The boards will be lying down, the board is 22x145 and will be attached to a 70/70 post. What length of nail would you go for? Thanks in advance!
Tommy12345302: [citat] they also live on the same street,
cpt: Hi! Planning to spruce up the garage at home this fall. Today, there are 5 cm thick cell foam/polystyrene boards as insulation directly against the concrete floor, then nothing more. The ceiling height is limited, so I'm trying to find a good solution to not reduce it but at the same time get an entirely okay ceiling that's better than today. My current plan is as follows: 1. Replace the cell
spikplanka: [citat] I'm mostly thinking about the beam getting its full strength. If a particleboard breaks, it's inconvenient, but not dangerous.