Building Materials and Construction Technology
Testarn: [citat] No, but the floor was painted with a paint that had worn down and flaked off, and since my brother works with epoxy floors and had a bucket of medium gray paint left over from a job, it felt perfectly okay to try it. It's semi-gloss and easy to clean, and made it brighter than the old red paint 😁 After almost ten years, it has come off in a few spots, but overall it has worked very
Conne3: [citat] How did your solution turn out and has everything worked well? I am facing a similar issue 🙂
Lutte: I'm doing some construction work at home and made a mistake when casting the footings, placing the post in the center instead of using the axis on my layout. So after a bit of thinking, I've come up with a solution where I notch the 115x115 post so that the glulam beam 115x495 rests on half of its thickness. I can let the post run up alongside the beam all the way to secure it. The dimensioning
Jiji: Agree with husfix. There is gypsum filler available for purchase in bags if you find there’s a lot to fill, but otherwise, husfix is convenient and easy to handle, you can whisk it together in the kitchen, so to speak. (Have lived in a house that eventually more or less consisted of husfix 😂 and gypsum mortar/filler. Wherever we touched the walls, the plaster layer crumbled. That's when we
klaskarlsson: [citat] I assume you have offset the wall with a beam and that it then rests on a double stud on each side? No, they should not be modified arbitrarily. It might work with a single stud, but then you might need to reinforce in another way, let the offset go to the next vertical stud as well (if you have cc 60), or you might get away with blocking (if it’s bending effects you want to address
Dr Benz: Ah ok. But the essence remains the same. You want the drywall as flat as possible against the substrate behind. In this case, OSB. Shimming it to make the wall appear straight, I would argue, is an enormous amount of work for what you get. It will create voids, and you can bet that the day you want to hang something, there's air behind, and you risk cracking the drywall instead.
klaskarlsson: It doesn't seem likely to be load-bearing, especially if it's the top floor. If it's also built with lightweight concrete (porous), it's even less likely.
z_bumbi: Drilling company Search for concrete and drilling then you will get results. Keep the drill cores as garden ornaments, especially if you have an older house where they used more ballast.
Småbrukaren: Let it sit. Maybe a thicker rule to get a little more air gap.
Boolean: [citat] Cheers! But I have brass nails and they seem to work.
nino: Yes, that was probably the case, might have been a few cm at most. Sure, the slabs are heavy, but it becomes a different load with a kitchen, as the upper cabinets extend 30-40cm. There, I would have chosen to have more than just the screw, now that I think about it.
aweste00: [citat] OK, thanks! I've found a brick that I think fills up 75%. Too bad I threw away a meter of chicken wire this spring...
Anonymiserad 405730: C14 is usually used for interior wall studs, at least in the smaller dimensions.
Ormriauga: I can only speak for how I've handled the chimney in my house. There are certainly others who would have done it differently and many who can offer opinions and point out how much I've done wrong. The chimney in our house had gypsum plaster, mortar, a fiberboard nailed with wallpaper, and some type of paint on it. There was also a wooden corner strip that went halfway up. When I tore everything
kenth gustafsson: [citat] Exactly...
ImTheBeast: [citat] 105mm is the frame's thickness on the dishwasher side.
Anonymiserad 405730: Well, 1-2 cm is too weak if you're going to cast outside the L-element, so it needs to be reinforced together with what you are going to cast on top of it. And then a thicker casting is needed. What do you have against cutting away the element itself?
Hedino: Hello, Does anyone know if this type of mounting strip is available in a store in Sweden? I’ve only found it on Amazon but I would need it ASAP. Best regards, Martin
AXS: Anchor plug. Drill with a hammer drill through wood and into the concrete and drive in directly.
BirgitS: If there are load-bearing walls in houses from that time, it is usually a wall that stands approximately under the roof ridge. Normally, the wall you want to demolish is not load-bearing. Common wall construction in villas and terraced houses from that time is a wooden frame construction with plasterboards. It sounds hollow.
MathiasS: Is it a regular wooden cladding for exterior walls we are talking about? You write "thin wooden cladding." Normally, exterior cladding is about 22mm, and then there are no problems at all with just fastening the brackets with a wood screw.
Derbyboy: The shed will be 6 meters wide so it will be difficult. I will continue digging a bit today and see
Pidde3: Had probably called the chimney sweep before. Annoying to tear down later during a possible fire safety inspection. Isn't it better to just polish it up?
MVJK: [citat] haha yes it was my son who came and wanted to help with the cleanup.
kristoffer.nilsson: [citat] That sounds great. Thank you so much!
Albans doktor: [citat] Well, then the easiest and cheapest solution is to restore it to how it was before. How much build height do you otherwise have from the slab up to the thresholds/door leaves?
Albans doktor: [citat] Yes, everything depends on how much sound and noise the wall should block. Will the washing machines be near the wall you plan to build or are there other walls in between? If you have the space to build like in your example, you've essentially built an "outer wall," which stands up to a lot of sound and noise. I recommend that you use huntonisolering (wood fiber) instead of classic
Småbrukaren: I have quarter rounds mounted on the carriage piece. There are still about 2-3mm visible. It almost looks like a profiled baseboard. Looks nice.