Building Materials and Construction Technology
Andreas-012: Perhaps the reason for the lack of these widths is that they are more prone to twisting and take longer to set up. Maybe I'll have to go with MDF boards with milled grooves instead, even though I was looking for "real" wood.
carlpett: [citat] Hm, a new rule could work, yes. Aside from the aesthetics which can probably be solved, does one need to think about how to prevent moisture from getting between the rule and the wall that's left and causing problems? [citat] Aha! None of the hardware stores I have nearby had anything other than 45, but then that is an option again! Interesting suggestion to distribute the load as well.
Jonas234567890: Hello, How should I proceed to achieve a smoother surface on my countertop made of fine concrete?
morr: [citat] Good luck! If you can consider vinyl flooring, they are probably easier (and cheaper) to work with, both in installation and maintenance, but I'm still satisfied :)
AndersS: That will be good, go with that and then you won't have streaks when the panel dries.
Danken88: The wall/corner is now fixed with (for me) good results. Used plaster mix and some pieces of lightweight concrete blocks from the demolition. Thanks for the tips & help!
lenmo: [citat] Yes, it can stand still, and it doesn’t blow much at all. We live next to the forest, and the whole area is in the middle of a forest. It doesn't blow as much as next to a field, for example. And the open sides are only where the terraces are, and they aren’t very open to air either. I will start by measuring properly, and I will try to remove the debris that is there, which might be
Anders Lindskog: I have bought a house from 1958 with a nice outdoor staircase covered with a salt-glazed clinker, presumably Höganäs, with dimensions of 295 x 145 x 48 mm. The front edge on one short side is slightly rounded. We need 15-20 pieces.
olofh: Thanks, good input. Yes, it's probably smart to be able to do that. or at least it doesn't hurt. In the store, it said that you should have hinge length corresponding to 1/2 the width of the gate. Guess that longer is better if you are between two
Tjrex: Mice are probably not entering from outside/below but from other angles/penetrations in the ceiling from the attic inside. Also, you don't want it too tight at the bottom either, as it will get clogged over time with debris.
cpalm: [citat] Is it pure gypsum, or do you have OSB or chipboard mixed in? At least when I've mounted steel studs (regular Lindab) with special screws intended for the purpose, you have to work at it for a little while before the screw has worked its way through the metal. And it depends on the screw being able to spin freely in the board. If you have a wooden board, the screw threads into the wood and
Rullholk: [citat] Exactly what I was considering, to attach a bracket to the wall. Yes, the panels will overlap at the joints.
z_bumbi: Pressure-treated wood is also almost always sold with a lower margin than white wood.
nino: How do you actually place the drywall on the "gles" (sparsely placed support)? I've always placed it along the length, the opposite of what you would do with subflooring. The long edge then gets support all the way, and the short edge is supported by 4 or 5 pieces of 70mm wide gles. Maybe it doesn't really matter, I haven't seen any cracks in the ceilings yet... Now, I'm usually not too quick, so
Stefan N: You can run with vattenglas. https://www.paintpro.se/farg-ytbehandling/alabaster-vattenglas
baltaxy: Update: no answers here, but we have now contacted carpenters and hope it will work to just replace a smaller part of the sill.
FörvirradAkademiker: [citat] Exactly, I don't want the cost of learning to become larger. My mistake was ignorance and trusting "professional" actors. I have contacted the settling company, they have a 2-year guarantee, so unfortunately, they have to come here again. They certainly haven't made any money off me either; the house is a loss for everyone involved 😅 there might be imbalances between the walls that
AKEAL: Thank you very much for the advice. I decided to use ankarmassa anyway. I was advised that Biltema's ankarmassa is at least as good as "more expensive" brands, and it didn't require as much as I thought. I learned that expanding concrete needs at least 30 mm of free space to expand according to the manufacturer. It would have been a good alternative if I had drilled larger holes from the start.
Freddiemeup: 105 cm x 54 cm Maybe so, but we'll probably later look for cabinet doors that we'll put in front. Yes, it can be mounted on the wall.
jehr: I usually use Essve for "important" things, mostly construction screws, etc. Also A4 screws when I've screwed decking. For simpler things like screw gluing, I've bought some screws at Byggmax that I think are about the same quality as Biltema. I think it's foolish to take chances...
Jonatan79: Start by installing one or two vents and inspect. Keep an eye out to ensure it doesn't get too damp.
Småbrukaren: Definitely plaster if possible. That will make it look as if the house was like that from the beginning. You just attach reinforcement strips to the outer corners. To cover the part coming down from the ceiling, you need a strip of plaster and then a corner strip from wall to wall.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] You should upload pictures here, so maybe someone will recognize the door leaf and can help you... It's good to have a picture from inside, outside, and side profile on both sides...
Mats-S: By "sparse panel," I mean regular panel boards like 23X95 that you nail between, or alternatively under, the soffit tails with a gap of about 1cm between each board so that air can enter there. Personally, I think it's nicest to nail the boards between the rafters, but it's considerably more work :-) Unfortunately, I don't have a picture, too dark to photograph now, but take a walk and you'll