Building Materials and Construction Technology
AG A: [citat] I have never used Husfix myself. But according to what it is intended for, I think it is perfect for this purpose.
Solidtrust: [citat] I have used them for 2 repainting jobs on our house, worked well. I have a split-level house and have 2 rows of French wood screws at different levels on the gables. If you have an 8-meter combination ladder like I do, you can reach all the way up to the ridge for painting. I then fasten the ladder to the beams that serve as fall protection at the highest level. Live in Norrtälje. Might
Coolman: Once again, what do the insurance terms say? You mention additional work, etc., and want to avoid it. So first read the insurance terms...
Anonymiserad 618974: It is primarily the torque you are working against. You need some form of bracket, preferably made of reasonably thick steel (think 10 mm), which has significant vertical spread to avoid crazy forces at its attachment to the joist. How are the joists attached? It is good if the attachment points for the joist and wall, and the joist and bracket are close to avoid the need to design against
Arne999: I have a couple of supports that sit against an uneven surface. I would like to fill them with something good that ideally would be expanding mortar but that's a bit difficult to achieve. There is LAGNINGSMASSA FISCHER CEMENT EXPRESS Which could be used to fill, but it's some polymer meant to fix things rather than withstand pressure. Is there any device you can load with mortar and press in?
torporoman: I have done sealing with clay plastering. For a while, I struggled with tar paper, trying to insert it to create a separating layer. But it is practically impossible without lifting the house. What I did instead was to install a sacrificial board, drip list, or whatever it's called. Then I clay plastered both behind it and between the sill and the granite. I have also sealed as much as possible
firefly: I am a board member for a housing association. We have a problem in one of our apartments, there is a cold draft against the exterior wall, or rather in the corner. The building was constructed in the late 1950s and actually consists of 2 building sections joined together with a small gap in between for movement. It's an apartment half a floor up, and the wall facing the seam has a very strong
Anonymiserad 618974: You can gypsum it if the gaps don't become too damn big; otherwise, you'll need to redo the walls as well. Apply gypsum, fill larger gaps with gypsum mortar, sand evenly, install aquabead corner reinforcements, putty, sand, putty, sand, putty, sand, prime the new gypsum + putty, paint the new gypsum + putty, paint the entire walls + new gypsum. Take a long can and enjoy your fine work.
federicok: Hi! I'm going to check out a 70's house with a really low-cut top hat (hip roof with large eaves). It would be super fun to see how it turned out in the end!
Albans doktor: Check with panelochlist if they have something equivalent. If not, they manufacture according to the drawing.
Totte_S: Buy a set where the box seems good and durable. Bits get lost and worn out, so you need to replenish them. If you have an impact driver, you'll want bits about 50 mm long so you can avoid using the holder. It's often quite nice anyway to have longer bits. At work, I have this easily accessible, but then I also usually have 15 different ones in my pocket 😁 [bild]
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] It'll be half a mil on each side, so nothing to worry about.
Cruzze: [citat] It was 6 years ago since TS was on BH at all, so don't expect an answer...😢
Larocc: Hmm I suspected that might be the case. I'll just have to redo it correctly...
Lillkerstin: [citat] No, we're not burning wrong according to the chimney sweep, but soot gets stuck under the metal plate and then falls into the ventilation. According to the chimney sweep, it's a common problem that can be avoided by attaching an extension pipe up at the actual chimney stack. I would preferably like to remove the protective hood and make a nice wreath.
Byurn: [citat] I thought that you could then nail the råspont from the outside as usual and then attach the stud from the side [bild] See the world's most detailed sketch
Anonymiserad 405730: Yes, you can use your old bricks, take mortar C so it becomes a bit workable since it's an old masonry...
nimhed: Put an iron from the 210 rule up on the ceiling and attach it there. There are nicer wrought iron to use.
Asli: [citat] Your posts plus some crucial practical questions have made us continue with house searching. Very grateful for all the input I've received.
Thomas.G: Hello, here is a brief presentation of my upcoming project. An old animal barn with stone walls and concrete floors will be transformed into a heated workshop. So here are some ideas and questions on how to solve this. I may not be the first to do this, but it's my first time, so I would appreciate tips from those with more experience. To avoid wasting time, I want to inform you of this… Yes, I
mushypeas: [citat] They probably have hole saws, just needed to get one as it was an additional step when they realized it was necessary. Very good electrician! Okay, but I get it now. 😊 It's just a bit odd when it was expected to be properly lowered everywhere.
JRH77: [citat] [citat] Reading up on anchor mass, a Perfo sleeve seems to be good, should you fill the holes in the hollow brick first with anchor mass, then press down the sleeve, then fill the sleeve with anchor mass, then screw in the threaded rod? [citat] Yes, some kind of mounting frame in wood or steel, to distribute the load over several holes in the hollow brick, even to take support from the
Derbyboy: Yes, that's the worst-case scenario. Potentially, you can save the foundation, but I read a thread about the smell coming from the concrete. But I think you should look for threads concerning houses with odor damage. I would never have dared to take a chance. It's a terrible situation to start paying for handyman hours and just hope that the smell will disappear. I would have chosen to live a bit
Farstatjej90: Just nail the new boards in place? It's purely aesthetic to raise the posts. It'll be a lot of work for a small thing. You don't think about that!👍😊
Rowah: [citat] Trying to get a bit wiser on peva/combideck. When you write H = Thickness of the slab, does it refer to the bottom or the top of the composite sheet?
F.Persson: Can't stand the woven wallpaper, and want smooth walls instead; furthermore, the wallpaper came off the tretex when we removed the baseboards, even though we tried to do it carefully. Ended up removing the tretex everywhere and putting up 13mm drywall instead.