Building Materials and Construction Technology
KjeEX: Want to avoid rust forming in the pipe through the wall, as the pipe has been there since the late '90s when gutters and garage roof were renovated, there are documents for that. The carport area is now covered with decking with a paved driveway in front. The plan is to install a sliding glass partition on it and turn it into a cold entryway. It's a mystery why they placed the stormwater outlet
Happifejz: [citat] Oh, I have to check that out later! Thanks for the tip 🥰
wildeside: It's best to lodge a complaint as soon as possible and see where the journey takes you. It doesn't cost anything to lodge a complaint.
Aronovic: Hi! I am planning to mount this cabinet on the wall, but it is missing a piece of molding on one side. I have access to a hand router with different bits, but I have never used this tool before - is it possible to route in a thick purple piece, and how can I achieve a similar profile? Grateful for tips! :) Dimensions, molding: 25 mm thick, routed groove 8 mm. Molding depth 80 mm.
fonzeka: Thanks, had quite a bit of carpenter help. It takes way too long when you do it yourself and are a perfectionist. Got hold of cheap roof beams but they were a bit too short so had to extend the last part against the house facade. [bild] Covered it with an underroof to avoid seeing it, thought it could become some kind of storage up there too. [bild] Other side, the gutter is hidden inside the
Majskaka: [citat] Big thanks! I got a bit anxious when I first saw the white fibers :)
torparavgrund: It works perfectly, you'll see. I would have done it like this: 1. Determine a reasonable cc measurement for the vertical studs. Drill and set a plug for the top screw on the first stud. Fasten the top screw on the first stud, but only loosely. Then align it vertically. Drill through the wood for the rest of the screws, just enough so that they mark the wall. 2. Pivot the stud away. Drill holes
Farstatjej90: You can also end at the corner and not turn around. It may look strange with a small piece of list by the stairs as well.
Anonymiserad 618974: [citat] Carbon or glass fiber. Don't do it. Nasty chemicals, and carbon fiber ends up in landfills as I understand it.
kashieda: Drill rebar into the old joint and let them sit in the new one, I think that will be easiest.
Västeuropen: [citat] Curious about how it looks now and how it went with grease stains.
Andy82: It ended up that the door was moved out a bit and a similar beam was cast on site. The new one will be stronger than the previous one in any case.
Ersust: Thanks for the answer, I'm learning a lot in the forum. I will ask a carpenter on site.
1986: [citat] I think this company is going downhill if they don't change their complaints system. It's not okay that you can't make a claim in-store. I bought a garden hose from Byggmax that burst after a day. Went back to the store to exchange it, but no, had to claim online. Didn't bother for 159 kr. Have previously shopped a lot at Byggmax but now I'm done. Really poor.
fribygg: Buy 34mm timber if you can't get 28, regular panel boards will be too flimsy.
John2019: [citat] Thanks! That sounds like a good plan 👍🏻
Molnpojken: Renovating an old summer house. The room in question was added later. Found an old masonry wall (old exterior wall) and behind it an "empty space" with insulation. On the other side of the empty space is the chimney for the fireplace, which currently has an insert. What should I do with the empty space? Mice seem to have liked it there. Fire safety?
AndersS: [citat] And you've checked that it's correct?😎
Testarn: [citat] It kind of depends on what you're starting from... If it's from the miter saw's perpendicular, i.e., 90 degrees, then you have to remove 19 degrees. That's correct. But the triangle's angle is 71 degrees. I think that becomes quite obvious when you're standing at your miter saw. However, if you want to set the angle on a sliding bevel (with some form of protractor/angle gauge) and then
Testarn: Their description is based on their block, which has a rather large cavity in the middle, and for walls between 0.8 and 1.1 m high, these cavities should be filled with concrete. Then they have a foundation of transverse stones and reinforcement that holds the wall together, etc., which helps. If you are to follow their instructions, concrete hollow block is probably reasonable if you cannot
mattias.rask: [citat] I happened to see this post and can just share that we have a similar deck where slate was laid on top. It looks great but unfortunately wasn't watertight so rain came in between the facade and in our case the storage and moisture got into the joists. Now there’s a waterproof layer and decking instead. So it's important to make sure you have a working waterproof layer. How did it go for
Småbrukaren: If it's loose, just put it back, simply. Regarding the module, in that case, you should have been able to access the space from another direction and wanted a nice wall.
tergo: [citat] it works on regular sheet metal rules try
AndersS: [citat] Stockholm, demand, inflation affecting timber prices, etc., there could be several reasons. From the Swedish Forest Agency: "What is happening with timber prices in 2024? In the first quarter of 2024, delivery timber prices for both sawlogs and pulpwood increased compared to the fourth quarter of 2023. The price of sawlogs increased by 8 percent and pulpwood by 3 percent. Regionally, the
egge80: first and last truss with a smaller one and all in between at cc 120, precisely because much is adapted to this specific measure!
Larsa: What kind of panel are you going to put on the walls? It's fine to use a hammer and a nail set to drive brads if it's a thin wood panel (around 12 mm). I don't think you can ever manage to create a sleeping loft in that cabin where you can walk underneath it and it's reasonable to sleep in. It can also get very hot if you sleep up in the ceiling, much ventilation is needed.
r91: Had to be an improvised stand [bild]
vectrex: [citat] Yes, it's quite large. A Hammer A3-41 with a 180cm long jointer table, I also have extension tables so the total length of the jointer table becomes 260cm. 77cm is probably a bit too small to straighten 3-4 meter long studs, yes.
Anonymiserad 405730: [citat] 100% Stone wool as others have already pointed out!