Where can you find long galvanized threaded rods?

[Dan_Johansson]

It seems to be Arvid Nilsson who manufactures them, so it should just be a matter of finding one of the local hardware stores that sell the same and getting them from there?

 

[Kontoristen7]

I think you're exaggerating the size of the problem...
A regular galvanized 8.8 M24 has a breaking point of over 20 tons, do you really need to apply that much force?
If you take a more reasonable M12, it's almost 7 tons, and an M10 almost 5, it should be sufficient for what you want to do.
Moreover, coupling nuts hold for the same force as the threaded rod, so you can just extend it.

 

[star_daddy]

I think you are exaggerating the size of the problem...
Regular galvanized 8.8 M24 has a breaking point of over 20 tons, do you really need to apply force that strong?
If you take a more reasonable M12, it's almost 7 tons and an M10 almost 5, should be plenty for what you want to do.
Additionally, coupling nuts hold the same force as the threaded rod, so it's just a matter of coupling on.

Not all threaded rods are 8.8 but 4.6, which is quite soft. M24 might be overkill, M20 or even M16 would probably suffice. But it must be hot-dip galvanized fzv. I've had an M14 of that kind lying around for several years near the west coast to test it and it's unaffected!

 

[z_bumbi]

Have you asked at the hardware store, the construction trade, or equivalent if they can order it?

 

[star_daddy]

Have you asked at hardware stores, building supplies, or similar if they can order it for you?

I don't have a favorite anymore, but it might be a good idea...

 

[cpalm]

Regarding the actual solution - the important thing here is to kortla around the threaded rod. I don't really see the point of running the rod through several floor beams. The rod's task is likely to press the "syllen" (+ post) against the blocking to prevent it from twisting, and in that case, one bay is sufficient. If you don't kortla, the beams will just deform/bend.

 

[star_daddy]

Regarding the solution itself - the important thing here is to add blocking around the threaded rod. I don't really see the point of running the rod through several floor joists. The rod's task is likely to press the "syllen" (+ post) against the blocking to prevent it from twisting, and then one section is enough. If you don't add blocking, the joists will simply deform/bend.

There is no tension in the threaded rods, only compressive force. Therefore, I don't want the threaded rods to be too weak, but properly fastened blocking can be very useful between beams 2-3 from the start, and when I have properly tightened the outer beam with the railing, I can probably mount blocking there as well. I was holding perfect two-meter lengths at Hornbach in Trollhättan an hour ago, but they were only plain galvanized, which doesn't even withstand fingerprints...

 

[cpalm]

There is no tension in the threaded rods, only compressive force.

I understand that's how you envisioned it, but my opinion is that you should let the noggings handle the compressive force and (if needed) pull it together with a threaded rod. The reason is that the support beams cannot withstand significant lateral forces without the whole thing becoming crooked.

 

[star_daddy]

I understand that this is how you've envisioned it, but my opinion is that you should let the noggins handle the compressive force and (if needed) pull it together with threaded rod. The reason is that the bearer beams can't handle significant lateral forces without the whole thing becoming crooked.

OK, how do I best attach the noggins to the floor joists?

 

[cpalm]

OK, how do I best attach the noggins to the floor joists?

In the simplest way, skew-nail for example. If they are under tension, it takes a lot to dislodge them from their position.
Just so we have the same picture of what you want to achieve, this is what I'm imagining:



The post on the left, the threaded rod in green, the two beams vertically, and the two noggins horizontally.
It's important that the noggins have the correct length and width so they really force the beam from twisting while also maintaining the correct c/c measurement between the beams.

 

[star_daddy]

In the simplest way, toe nail for example. If they are under tension it will take a lot before they move out of position.
Just so we have the same picture of what you want to achieve, this is what I have in mind:

[image]

The post on the left, the threaded rod in green, the two beams vertically, and the two noggings horizontally.
It's important that the noggings have the right length and width so that they really prevent the beam from twisting while maintaining the correct c/c measurement between the beams.

It looks excellent, thank you very much for the help!