Hello! I have widened an existing window and installed double doors to the patio. I have installed two 45x170 beams, screwed with Waf screws, glued together, and placed under the 100x100 beam/post that needed to be supported! (the old beams) (the house was built in '42)

Now to the problem: the existing support beam for the upper floor joists is notched about 15-20 into the (100x100) posts and about 20 +/- is hanging freely with only some form of tongue-and-groove beneath it.

HOW do I support this if I can only use 36x145 as suitable timber to secure the wall, since there is no 36 thick timber classified as load-bearing... Help

And yes, I should have made the support beam wider so it would fit directly, but now I've messed up so...
 
  • Newly installed patio double doors with visible wooden framing. Snow can be seen outside. Renovation details mentioned in the context.
  • Close-up of a timber beam structure with visible wood grain and insulation, connected to a wall. Part of a renovation project involving a window and door replacement.
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T Tiggrawastaken said:
Hello! I have widened an existing window and installed a double door to the patio.
I have installed two 45x170 screwed with Waf screws and glued together, placed under the 100x100 beam/post that needed to be bypassed! (the old beams)
(the house was built in -42)

Now to the problem: the existing load-bearing beam for the floor above is notched about 15-20 in (100x100) in the posts, and about 20 +/- is free-hanging with only some form of beadboard beneath it.

HOW do I bypass this if I can only have 36x145 as suitable timber to assemble the wall? Since there is no 36 thick rated as load-bearing timber... Help

And yes, I should have made the bypass wider so it fit directly, but I messed up, so...
Whether this will hold without settling, I have my doubts...
But you can buy 12mm construction plywood and rip strips of 145mm that you screw and glue up with wood glue, meaning three layers...

https://www.byggmax.se/trälim-polyuretan-bostik
 
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Why would you need any specifically graded construction wood?
Follow the excellent advice of 3 layers of K-plyfa or nail up a wide knot-free one-inch board and glue an osb on.
 
Rejäl said:
Whether this will hold without settling, I am doubtful about...
But you can buy construction plywood 12mm and cut strips of 145mm that you screw and glue with wood glue, in three layers..

[link]
Sounds perfect 👍🏼 thank you
 
F fribygg said:
Why would you need any specially graded construction timber?
Follow the excellent advice on 3 layers of K-plywood or nail up a wide knot-free one-inch board and glue an OSB on.
I thought because it will support the bearing beam above as I have removed 1 stud/post (100x100) that it was notched into
 
T Tiggrawastaken said:
I thought because it will support the main beam above since I've removed 1 rule/post (100x100) that it was notched into
There probably isn't any other classified construction timber in a house from the forties, so you'll probably manage with a board.
 
F fribygg said:
There is probably no other classified construction timber in a 1940s house, so you're probably fine with a board.
Haha true true! :)
 
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