Building Materials and Construction Technology
yens: Okay, then we are in complete agreement; it was you writing both gles and osb that made me curious, but then it was in different places.
Roger J: Well, I'm going to tear out the old one and see how it looks.
Mikael_L: There is indeed a trick to use. The sloping roof is surrounded by "walls" that give a visual impression of a complete box. Here you see the backside of origo from götenehus, here an opening is obviously necessary so that the roof water can drain out. Possibly a slit could be made instead, so it looks more like a box here as well... [bild] You should ponder a bit and perhaps discuss and refine
ArneTW: I would probably have made a mold and cast up to a smooth surface/shelf to attach/place the sill in/on. Also placed a couple of rebar. /ATW
v-g: Bought two Mora from rinkaby and they work perfectly, judging by the construction they are very durable. One important thing is to turn it off at the FAUCET, not at the HOSE, if you do the latter the spout will guaranteed freeze and break, regardless of whether it is self-draining or not.
Per72: [citat] Yes, that's probably recommended. The planks will have to become joists instead.. We seem to agree that it works.
MartinGustafsson: Rebar is a bit overkill, but otherwise it's enough to smear mortar on the sides of the stone, against the existing wall. If you want to do it thoroughly, you can use an adhesive that makes the mortar adhere better to the old surface, Maxit has a good one.
pellepite: Of course, it works with a slab. How many houses with basements don't have an added garage.... Many! And it works well. :) // Per
mattssons: Permanent. Want to build in the cheapest simplest way and plan for the future to add a brick wall and in other ways get a more maintenance-free house. Mostly wondering if prefab is the cheapest, or if cast-in-place or Leca might be best, there seem to be a lot of different ways that can be good. Regards, Tobias
TOL09: I might have been a bit unclear, the sill is 70 high and 120 wide. I had two options, two pieces of pressured 34x120 stacked on top of each other or to join 3 pieces of 70x45 side by side =70x135 which would be a bit wider but would work. Since I didn't want to use pressured, I ended up joining 3 pieces and it worked well enough. One could have solved it by complementing with glue too, but it
Erik Ljung: Hello! Thanks for the response! Talked to two wood experts and three roofers. There might be discoloration. Can use larch battens...a bit expensive...got the advice to use rubber under the entire batten that rests against the roof. (instead of plastic spacer.) Also, they suggested I could paint the battens beforehand. Then it should be fine. Take care!
Pucco: If you're looking for smaller pieces, you might want to check IKEA's scrap sales. I found 3mm MDF with a wood-patterned paper film on one side. It was the back of a bookshelf. 40x160+40x160 cm for 19 kronor.
pellepite: I have an old house built in '39. I will be tearing down the old shack of a garage that is attached to the house and building a new large nice garage instead. My question is how I should handle the vapor barrier in the garage since there isn't one in the house. And if I should install a vapor barrier, should I also do it against the house wall? // Per
SteffeM: We are renovating an old house and are trying to come up with a good floor plan. To fit all the rooms we want on the upper floor, we would either need to turn the staircase around so that you come up on the other side of the house or make a "bend" in the staircase. How much work is it to turn a staircase and move it a meter or so to one side? How difficult is it to modify a staircase so that it
raveper: There are ready-made kits available to fill such cracks. Google parquet kits or similar.
TLovskog: Fantastic with this forum. I'm just about to raise 3 walls and have the same question. My parquet floor is floating, so I'm planning to cut into it. Nubb and pl 600 sound pretty reasonable. Is this how carpenters usually do it?
thewolf: Dare I ask what you're going to use them for? Just a hassle to deal with...
mångstekta: You probably need to paint the ends thoroughly too, then it might hold up for a while, otherwise it will probably swell at the first rain...
Fasting65: A little reminder before you start dismantling: Support the joists before you put the saw into any stud!
tihimas: Thanks for the tips. It became 3x2"6 Felt very sturdy and since it is inside a sunroom, there won't be much moisture to be absorbed.
gaia: seems easier with a basement - water and sewage are already there. Just need flooring and heating so maybe it will be easier to stay within the budget limit :). If there is sewage and good insulation in the barn, I would prefer to live above ground ... gaia
Fardelin: I have mixed a batch of tile adhesive, unfortunately, I don't have time to use it all right now. However, I can resume tiling later today. It says on the package that the "open" time is 5 hours. I covered the adhesive in the bucket with water and put a plastic bag over it. Does it make any difference? Or should I just throw it away? It will probably be at least 6-7 hours from when I mixed it
Chriskay: Thank you vagabondo! Another question; the regel closest to the garage opening is not against the sill but directly on the slab, should I put sill insulation under it, or treat it in some way?
thewolf: I have taken down the attic stairs to raise the ceiling in the basement stairs... At the "bottom" of the attic stairs, there was a small floor that needs to be removed. I am tearing up the floor and what do I find... Two radiator pipes and a load-bearing beam that supports the kid's bedroom :( The radiator pipes can just be replaced with copper pipes and placed on the new wall that will be put
sponken: We polished our brick fireplace and it turned out really well with C mortar. To build out under the "overhang," use regular leca blocks which you cut to a suitable shape. It becomes very stable and subsequently works excellently for plastering. Good luck
tomlund: Hi! How did you solve it all, I am now facing a similar problem. Thanks in advance. Tom
JLindstrom: Hi. I was recently asked to make a hole between the hallway and the kitchen that was supposed to be round and one meter in diameter. With the risk of the hole ending up looking like Barbapapa, I tried to negotiate for a square hole, but was almost called an idiot and heard some mumbling about guys and interior design... There was no point in discussing, so I came up with a solution and concluded
morty81: The house, one and a half stories renovated in the late '70s... I tore away a piece of fiberboard on the ceiling upstairs and found some type of plastic, brown on one side that feels like paper while the "back" is black and feels like plastic. What I found strange was that this "plastic" is only in the hallway upstairs and not in the two rooms? :confused: