Building Materials and Construction Technology
MaZtoR: Just tore down a ceiling in the basement that was made of asphalt board and now I see what I assume is the original ceiling in the basement. It consists of short boards lying on battens attached to the sides of the floor joists. They are not fixed but lie loosely. Above these boards, there is some kind of paper, and then there is a layer of sand and stones about 2-4 cm thick. The basement
paln: But I realize that I need to be more specific.... Sure, Höganäs has some colored tiles and klinkers, but what I'm looking for is klinkers with a bit more variation, preferably in clear but somewhat muted colors (like earth tones). If they are of a somewhat "rustic" type in design, I would be even happier :) I am looking for yellow, brick-colored, red, blue, green, etc. They can preferably be
erber: aaaa....right...., I didn't think of that. must be the only detergent I DON'T have at home right now..... yes, it must work...thank you....didn't think of that. :D Erber
imported_Byggaren: They have most likely not had any other function than as the base for the filling. Stabilization between beams in older houses consists of cross bracing, slender sticks placed between the top of one beam and the underside of the adjacent beam and a stick in the opposite direction to form a cross. (Hence the name cross bracing.) Since you will have plasterboard or another sheet material as the
GunSjo: Hello! I have carried out a drainage with isodrän. On top of the isodrän plate and around the house, a plastic strip is placed and attached to the house's base. This is to prevent water from seeping in between the base and the plastic strip. The whole thing should last for fifty years and be buried underground. My problem - I don’t know what type of sealing material to use between the base
Phiplex: I have now found some more information and am renewing my call for help to calculate the deflection of the handrail for a balcony railing. I am going to make an L-shaped all-glass railing with lengths of 5.3 m + 4.8 m. Glass 16 mm (2x8 laminated + tempered) height 1.1 m. The length of the glass panes is a maximum of 2.65 m, i.e., for the 5.3 m stretch, there will be 2 glued glass panes next to
Nanorch: [citat] The ground under the slabs is gravel and stone, which feels like a good condition. The 45x170 joists will mostly end up under the facade; an alternative would be to lower them even more and fasten them to the concrete slab, but I'm not entirely comfortable with pounding away with a hammer drill there; the edge element might crack, or I might damage the waterborne floor heating. However,
Booser: I'm considering expanding. It's a single-story Älvsbyhus of 120 sqm, and the idea is to extend the living room in an L-shape. The width of the living room is 5m, and I was thinking of extending it by 4.2m. Now to my thoughts. 1. What kind of foundation should one have? The house currently stands on a crawl space foundation, can I also build the extension on such a foundation? I buy timber
gruset: Hello, I have plastered the wall behind the stove in the summer cottage with plaster from Byggmax. The plaster is reinforced with "chicken wire" and applied about 2 cm on drywall. The stove is at the correct distance from the wall according to the instructions. Now I have seen small networks of cracks in the plaster and I'm not very satisfied with that. Question: Why, and what can I do? Should it
Hobbit: Perhaps a carpenter or furniture maker here in the forum will take care of your trees? Post them on Blocket - It might be worth a try!! I know oak wood is much sought after on the continent. Why else would wine barrels be made of oak? Google for Limousin oak and you'll see. If your trees had already been cut down and sawed, I would gladly bid on a few linear meters of boards and beams. I'm
henrico: Does anyone know if there is any material similar to platonmatta but with a smooth surface? It should be available on a roll (preferably about 2m wide), be relatively sturdy and preferably in plastic or some other age-resistant material. What could fit that specification and where could it be purchased at a reasonable price?
bebben: Yes, but it works, because the ceiling box is certainly attached to a joist.
ChrilleK: I will do as in this picture, but won't moisture migrate into the gypsum if I place it directly against the rebate? [bild] (PS. It's me, Chriskay, remembered I had an old login)
El Gringo: Can't you saturate the filler with regular linseed oil first? Otherwise, there is linseed oil filler you can use, but perhaps that needs to be saturated as well, fiberglass filler might be an option, it shouldn't absorb the oil at least!
Uffe_xx: Attach a thicker beam or board to the irons and use a bottle jack under this, and calmly and gently lift the foundation block this way; a few resets will surely be needed when the jack reaches its maximum height. This way, you'll avoid having a garden torn up by machines and can handle this at your own pace. Unless the foundation block is dowelled into the rock...
AndersRocker: Today, I have an old cast staircase (probably from the 30s) that runs along my house foundation (which is in concrete). The house stands on a sloping rock. Thus, one side of the staircase connects to the house wall. The staircase has eleven steps. I want to make a new staircase and wonder: 1. Can I do it myself with a crafted form? Will it be able to bear the load? 2. In addition to some rebar
Ronny_b: That could work! If no one else has any ideas, I'll go with it!
petersk: Let's say you can easily determine on the spot that it is not load-bearing. Then you're probably looking at around 2000 SEK. It probably depends a bit on where you live. Check your PM! If the wall is not load-bearing, you probably don't need to make a building notification.
Krillew: [citat] This was an old thread, I hope you are still around. Do you have any tips on where to turn?
orpon: [citat] I'm considering the same thing. My father bought a new LB house, and they had leftover sill insulation from the house build as you described above. My father used this for a garage build where the sill was placed on a layer of built lecablock. It feels good, as it becomes tight. Does anyone know what this sill insulation is? It looked something like foam rubber except it didn't absorb
rocla: there is surely a friendly designer who might be willing to talk about it in exchange for a fee
rocla: In Västra Götaland, a snow load of between 1.0-1.5 kN/m^2 is anticipated depending on where you live.
NyfikenVit: Hi, The plaster on old plastered interior walls tends to crumble over time. But is the plaster used nowadays a different type that lasts better? Or should one also expect that walls plastered now with "modern" plaster will become porous in 30-40 years or so? And finally, if you are going to repair a hole that is about 10x10x20 cm in a plastered concrete interior wall, is it suitable to use
mungobongo: I was thinking of buying some cedar wood in board form. It's not a material you can find at just any hardware store unfortunately. Does anyone here have tips on a cheap and good supplier of this primarily in the Malmö area, but throughout Skåne works too.
Bambi: Hi! I'm looking for a wide underpanel to build around 150mm/section with minimal gaps between them. Does anyone have any good suggestions? Regards
The Tor: Thank you for the response! I will try to return with before-and-after pictures later this summer.
injonil: I built the last trusses on the gables directly on the ridge beam. Then you don't need to consider the strength of the floor joists, just use the simplest type of timber. The simplest way is to use the same dimensions as the other trusses (to avoid problems with insulation and the ceiling, etc.). A few extra studs against the ridge beam, and it's fine to use ungraded timber even there...