Building Materials and Construction Technology
Mikael_L: A layer of gypsum on both sides of a wooden stud frame provides EI30 fire resistance. If the frame is at least 95mm and there is at least 95mm of mineral wool in between, the class becomes EI60.
Hobby snickaren: I was thinking of the big crosses between the posts.
Leaff: I will buy an untreated klädselbräda and paint it white. That's how it will be! :)
imported_Byggaren: The quality of pressure-treated wood (not the wood protection class) depends on two things: where the timber was grown and the size of the dimension it was taken from. If you can find slow-grown pine (preferably grown in Norrland, but some imports from our northern neighbors and Russia can also suffice), it is preferable in most cases over southern wood, grown in the Småland highlands. (More
_bystrom_: The Lecablocks can handle the weight, you don't need to worry about that. Saw up, lay a couple of blocks, put the floor back - done.
ByggaNytt: 22*70 with self-sawn beveling: http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel/panel_5.jpg http://www.familjenlindstrom.se/images/byggahus/panel
bigsnucke: It works well with regular white glue and clamps. Recently sanded surfaces are a plus! (We run everything that needs to be glued through a wide belt sander, but it can be done by hand as well...)
OLJensa: You need to have a track mounted at the top, possibly a stop fitting, a roller that should run in the track, and some sort of door fitting to attach the roller to. Additionally, you need a (or several) floor guide(s) and a milled groove in the bottom of the doors. Everything is available for purchase in ready-made kits. Instead of a grip list, you can insert (mill) grip fittings, as you cannot
JonasAndersson: I have a 1.5-story house with a basement built in '56. The house has a light concrete frame with cast floors on both levels. Now I'm going to extend the lower floor and have decided on a cast floor made as a slab on the ground but elevated equal to the height of the house's plinth. The floor between the 1st and 2nd floor is also concrete, and part of my extension is already done as I have a
sinoni: Is there anyone with experience in promatect l? We are going to demolish a load-bearing wall and need to clad beams with promatect l. The problem is that neither the ones demolishing the wall nor the blacksmith who is going to put up the beams can do it. Where can you find someone who can? What does it cost?:confused:
Roary: Hello I have a retaining wall in the garden that has cracked, a section about 50x30 cm has come loose and is sitting loosely. I was thinking of addressing the issue by cutting grooves in the concrete on the side of the wall and inserting rebar. But what should I fill it with afterwards? Mixing cement and filling it in won't work since it's too fluid, right? Is house fix/filler hard enough to hold
ByggaNytt: Most nail guns shoot only 90 (even though mine takes 100), so it is completely normal. With a nail gun, it automatically results in significantly more nails than when you use a hammer.... [bild]
pepparkakshuset: Exactly! A glass panel might look really nice. The glass guys can always cut to size.
Jonas_Pettersson: As a small clarification on my question above, my question is actually where the weight of the trusses is located.
anaitis: Aluminum is probably not the best choice. Aluminum is less noble than zinc and will therefore disappear. There are more noble rivets to buy. Check out the respective nobility of metals here: http://sv.wikipedia.org/wiki/Korrosionspotential
anaitis: Haven't seen the programs. Blue-colored foam I am not familiar with, but the color is probably just a detail. The foams used in Sweden are urea foam and polyurethane foam. Read more here: http://www.byggahus.se/forum/isolering/93592-varfoer-inte-polyuretan-skum.html
bus: thinking of using tile adhesive for better adhesion, less cracking. (not aiming for smooth walls but a plastered surface). don't want to put up boards first as the nice old casings are unlikely to be dismantled without breaking. mostly wondering if there might be some nasty reaction with the old boards. (like 60s or something)
fresve: I have done exactly as you wrote, built a balcony with a patio underneath. Frame, rough board, roofing felt... It was finished last year, now it will be framing, decking, and railing this year. It has a 3-degree slope, bought glaciär 3 grader at byggmax.
Tobiaz: Hello, thanks for the answers. The wall is now gone, I put the saw in and it didn't bind. The week after I started tearing down, I found a similar lägenhem on Hemnet where they had torn down the entire closet, so they had obviously come to the same conclusion as I did. /Tobias
Alko: How great the advice you get here! In my case, there won't be a real indentation since I did it in the wrong order. The "indentation" will be just as thick as the MDF. But a small bead of sealant will probably fix any gaps. And milling a rounding also makes the MDF less sensitive to knocks on the edge. But it's frustrating how the smallest mistake in the details can cause extra work! This morning
Leffenisse: How did it go with the creosote? I have a summer cottage that we're in the process of renovating and I discovered that apparently creosote was splashed on when it was built in the 60s? Should one replace the beams or what should be done?
imported_Byggaren: You should account for at least 60 cm in length per person at the table side. A table also has two end sides. Assume you place one person at each end and four people on the long sides (2+2). Then the table needs to be at least 120+60 cm long to accommodate the plates for those sitting at the ends. But then you might as well place three people on each long side since the table would be 180 cm
Bandit: Hello, there is previously plywood nailed directly to the wall which has then been wallpapered. I have removed a bit of this wall and there doesn't seem to be any moisture behind it. There is no smell in the basement. Drainage hasn't been done in the last 10 years as far as I know. I have owned the house for 2 years. The floor is just a felt carpet directly on the foundation.
bonnier: Now I'm just a (sometimes) happy amateur, but I don't think it should be inappropriate to use MDF for everything if it's a heated space (room temperature?). I've made a couple of closet doors in MDF that have warped a bit, but the doors on the kattvind are fitting perfectly. A couple of strong magnetic locks on the top and bottom ensure that the doors stay in place. Addition: I used 10mm MDF for
Fasting65: You can always attach the slats with TWO metal pins in each short end, so you are one hundred percent sure that they are in the "right" tilt...
slaskman: I have an extension in teak and copper from 1963, over the years it has become quite dark, almost black. I can imagine that the old oil is oxidizing.
wedin: I live in an apartment and have just chiseled up the toilet floor in concrete for a new plumbing installation to reach the floor below (ceiling with something like Ecophon tiles). Now, I'm contemplating how best to pour concrete to fill in the holes, one 200 x 400 mm with rough edges and a diamond-drilled hole for the old toilet drain. The floor is between 150 - 200 mm thick. I'm planning to
roberthjort: how should one ventilate the wall in general? drill holes in the metal - at the bottom and top or what do you mean?