Building Materials and Construction Technology
ylven: wedge73: the difference with concrete underneath instead of just ground, is that the concrete to some extent transports moisture. So there's a risk that the moisture will instead go up into the walls.
anaitis: Without reading the datasheets: The fact that Vittinges are lighter suggests that they are thinner, i.e., contain less material. In the long run, this could mean a slightly more fragile tile.
imported_Benno: In building conservation contexts, window putty works as "outdoor filler" for minor fillings. It hardens very slowly if it's linseed oil putty. It may eventually fall off when the putty hardens and the boards move. Take down and adjust the moldings if it is not possible to nail/screw them better.
Ingenjören: According to the brochure about Masterboard from Ljungbergs (who are retailers in Sweden), Masterboard has been manufactured since 1978 and it also states: http://www.ljungberg.se/brochyrer/masterboard.pdf Masterboard is made up of calcium silicate (lime, cement, and silica), vermiculite, mica and is reinforced with cellulose fiber. During dust-generating work, a dust extractor and/or dust filter
Chinaski: I have found Träguiden very useful, check it out here for example: http://www.traguiden.se/TGtemplates/PageTwoColumn.aspx?id=5947
uttaget: Hello all house builders! I'm new to the forum and have a question that I'm not sure where it belongs, so I'm posting it in this section. (The moderators are very welcome to move it to the correct section if a mistake has been made). My question is as follows: I live in a 2-room apartment on the ground floor that has a vertical drainage shaft running from ceiling to floor in my living room. The
brevik: Just wanted to mention that I chose Sikabond 500 after a recommendation and it worked excellently. The moldings are now firmly in place.
edvinf: Yes, I also think it feels weak. That's why I'm asking. Kerto could be something. Masonite lightweight studs too. They also have span and dimensioning tables to download. Are there such tables for regular timber as well?
chrille112: Thanks for the answers. I bought 45x120 over the weekend and set cc30, turned out super stable :)
chris47: LED emits very little heat. There are many different variants. You can also buy regular spots and install LED lights. Today there are warm white and all sorts of different colors. /CC
storkarp: Found more unanswered questions on the same topic in the forum. Is there no one who has bricked up windows? I doubt this. Or is no one brave enough to answer because you might be suspected of being a Fritzl type? The question is: Brick with concrete blocks with or without insulation on a brick wall. OK or are there disadvantages? I've never done brickwork, so it's an advantage if it's simple.
brevik: Answering myself :). Got a tip from a friend who is a handyman and he recommended Sikabond 500. I have attached a strip with it and secured it with 5 clamps. Now I'm letting the clamps stay for 1 day and I'll hope for the best. I can update on how it went.
Totte_S: Oh, I see! Myself, I had 20 cm to work with and didn't need to redo the foundation. Good luck.
Mattias B73: Hello! I have a question regarding a frame for an indoor riding arena I'm considering. The frame is 17*30 meters currently in snow zone 2.5. I'm planning to move it to snow zone 1 instead. Ideally, you'd want an arena to be 40 meters long. The question for the experienced is: How much longer could the building be in snow zone 1 compared to 2.5? The frame is made of aluminum with a roof pitch of
Elvis69: You can use vertical mounting on horizontal battens even with a single layer of plasterboard, alternatively horizontal mounting with nogging at the short joints. If you're using two layers of plasterboard, you can have both vertical provided that you stagger the second layer by half a sheet to avoid long joints. See page 11
kloka_elin: No, really what it costs to do it yourself since it was so incredibly expensive to let them do it. And sure, I've never done any masonry before, but on the other hand, I hadn't done anything else either before I tried for the first time, and so far everything has gone well. You just have to ask for tips and advice from nice acquaintances who know what you're trying to do...
JoakimU: Hello. It's soon time to tidy up around the stove + wood stove and I was thinking of some form of tile to make it look nice as well as practical as a splash guard. The idea is to tile up a bit towards the hood, at the height of the baking oven door for example. The baking oven is not in use and will not be used. What should one consider when tiling regarding substrate, material, heat from the
Snigla: Muffen35: All drawing programs are advanced in one way or another.. sketchup is probably in the easiest category.. (the others become more technical) you have to try it out.. play with the program.. and read about it (I haven't learned it all.. but I find it very fun) Good luck Best regards Sandra
klos: OK, that sounds good. I'll have to compare prices with local plåtisar.
skerfe: Hello, That is just a regular aerated concrete block. The difference, as you mentioned, is in the density (and thereby also the insulation capability). Xella has a block Ytong/Siporex with a density of 340kg/m3. Which density should be used depends on how heavy the house will be. But Xella's block, with 340kg/m3, can be used up to three stories. I'm not quite sure what I have answered, as I
Mraff: The problem is solved. You do exactly as it says in all the other threads. You divide the angle by two and place the list in the miter box just as it sits on the wall. The main problem was that I measured an incorrect angle, how embarrassing. :confused: Thanks anyway for the responses!
__OJ__: Hello I have torn out everything in my son's room and will now put up new drywall and ceiling. The ceiling is horizontal at the top but slopes on both sides down to the wall, which is about 150cm high, hope you understand what I mean. Two questions on this, should you start with the ceiling or the drywall to make it easiest? Question two, where do you start when it comes to the ceiling? I wanted
MB77: We have the panel board in several places in our house "pärlspont" and we are really satisfied, we only have it on walls. We glued them up, works perfectly. As (tallmilan) writes, it is important that the wall is straight behind, otherwise you will need to use the latex sealant.
mickef: The simple way to check if the wall is load-bearing is to see if any brace in the truss rests on the wall.
anaitis: Normally not, but it's hard to assess without being able to see what it looks like. Especially if you think "it's so incredibly meticulously done." Picture?
Andreas A: Have tried reaching some of the constructors on their list without success. What do you think about the reinforcement? According to Maxit, the horizontal reinforcement will be inadequate given the height of the windows. Could vertical reinforcement at all the windows be sufficient to handle the wind load? Perhaps it will still end up being a steel beam.... Thanks for the responses...