I have a stack of 34x145 C30 planks lying around. Are these usable as a frame for something like a garage, or are they too weak? It feels a bit unnecessary to have these lying around for no use. And since I'm thinking of building a garage, it would be good if they were useful for something.
 
Sorry, read and thought wrong.. :)
 
maybe a bit too narrow... but split them and use them for battens for example...
 
Mikael_L
Per72 said:
I have a pile of 34x145 C30 planks lying around. Are these usable as a frame for something like a garage, or are they too flimsy...
No problem, go ahead and build.
I wouldn't hesitate, even smaller thermal bridges :)

Others sell kits with even thinner dimensions ... ;)
http://www.lovangersbygg.se/system/visa.asp?FID=368&HID=319&HSID=3889&ActMenu=4057

But remember, you might need to reduce the cc-distance so the insulation fits. But then the roof trusses will be too close instead (for the insulation) ... :)

Roxull flexibatts have a flexible zone that accommodates a couple of centimeters error in stud spacing. You should easily be able to use this insulation in both places if you adjust the cc-distance correctly.
 
Per72 said:
I have a pile of 34x145 C30 planks lying around. Are these usable as a frame
It should work well in terms of structural strength, but it gets a bit tricky since sheet material is made for c/c 600 mm and the insulation that fits wants 45 mm thick studs to fit. But you can solve this by trimming away 22 mm from each sheet or laying the insulation on the other direction and cutting it to fit.
 
Mikael_L
I would actually start measuring some insulation, as there are usually slight excesses on all of them, to accommodate variations in craftsmanship. If you find one that is 57 cm wide, it will suffice for traditional cc at 60 cm.

Roxull flexibatts are available at 580 mm, should work well.
http://guiden.roxull.se/produkter/byggisolering/flexibatts

Regarding the strength, you need to brace your 34x145 against buckling in the weak direction. But it's sufficient with mounted sheet material on the inside or outside, with cross-battening or horizontal furring strips.
 
Mikael_L said:
I would actually take and measure some insulation, there is a bit of excess in all, to account for some variations in the craftsmanship. If you find one that is 57 cm wide, it would be sufficient for traditional cc on 60cm.

Roxull flexibatts are available in 580mm, should work well. [link]

Regarding the structural strength, you need to brace your 34x145 against buckling in the weak direction. But it's enough with mounted sheet material on the inside or outside, with cross battens or horizontal nailing battens.
Since I plan to cross batten with 45x45 on the outside, I've solved the problem with the sheets on the outside. On the inside, I plan to create some spacing to make it easier to run the electricity. Because of that, the issue with the sheets should be solved on the inside too. As for the insulation, it's just a matter of placing the 34x145 studs so the standard insulation fits in between. On the other hand, it probably won't align with the roof trusses, if they necessarily need to be directly above a wall stud???.. If I put a 45x225 as a horizontal support for the roof trusses, it should hold, or what do you think??
 
Mikael_L said:
No problem, go ahead and build.
I wouldn't hesitate, even less thermal bridges :)

/QUOTE]

In the absence of self-supporting insulation, you have to take what you have to save the ozone layer : )
 
mångstekta said:
mja kanske i smalaste laget... men klyv dom och använd dom till läkt tex...
Well.. Would probably work.
 
There are other uses besides just studs.

If your garage gets a loft, you can use the planks as flooring, or maybe split them into 34x72 and place them as sparse between the rafters if they are on 120 cc.
 
Mikael_L
Per72 said:
...On the other hand, it probably won't align with the roof trusses if they necessarily need to sit directly above a wall stud???..
If they don't end up above the wall studs, you simply inset a load-bearing beam into the wall plate.

If I place a 45x225 as a horizontal support for the roof trusses, it should hold, don't you think??
Yes, you seem to mean exactly such a load-bearing beam. The thickness depends on the span, snow zone, and how far from the standing studs the roof trusses end up. Even your 34x145 could work as a load-bearing beam if the load isn’t too large. But this probably needs to be reviewed by someone knowledgeable.
 
Mikael_L said:
If they don't end up over the wall studs, simply recess a support beam into the top plate.

Yes, you seem to mean exactly such a support beam.
The thickness depends on the span, snow zone, and how far from the standing studs the trusses end up. Even your 34x145 can work as a support beam if the load isn't too great.
But it probably needs to be reviewed by someone knowledgeable.
I will take a look in the truss book I have at work to see if I get any wiser : )
 
mycke_nu said:
There are other uses than just studs.

If your garage has a loft, you can use the planks as flooring, or perhaps split them into 34x72 and place them as spacing between the rafters if they are on 120 cc.
Yes, that's true. It will probably make a fairly sturdy floor in the garage loft if I choose to lay them there. Otherwise, as said, you can split them.
 
Mikael_L
Shouldn't the planks be tongue-and-groove if they're to be used for flooring?
 
Mikael_L said:
Shouldn't the planks be grooved if they're going to be for flooring?
Yes, that's probably recommended. The planks will have to become joists instead.. We seem to agree that it works.
 
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